Big Auggie Posted April 23, 2014 #1 Posted April 23, 2014 Just put in my 4 brush starter from an '04. Since I've got the thermostat housing out I'd like to replace the O rings. I read on one of the forums that they were readily available at any auto parts store, I didn't find any of the 4 I need in the three parts stores I went to. Guess I'll take out a loan and try the Yamaha dealer. Suggestions??
Peder_y2k Posted April 23, 2014 #2 Posted April 23, 2014 I've looked for the o-rings at several parts stores plus a few specialty stores, and found none. Finally ordered from Partzilla.com/Boats.net and they were not that expensive, just had to wait on shipment. Dealer is the way to go if you need them right away. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Bubber Posted April 23, 2014 #3 Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) A word of caution. O-rings can be made of different materials and they have different squeeze parameters in order to seal properly. (soft, hard) I don't know what Yamaha uses for o-ring materials and I am not sure if it states on the packaging. It is best to use the same as what they originally installed for squeeze and longevity. If you find out what material it is please post it here. An example would be see list below, depending on the use Material, designation, shelf life Buna-N (Nitrile or NBR) NBR15 YearsButyl Rubber, Isobutylene Isoprene IIR Unlimited Chloroprene (Neoprene®) CR 15 Years Epichlorohydrin (Hydrin®) ECO NA Ethylene Acrylic (Vamac®) AEM 15 Years Ethylene Propylene, EPDM or EP EP Unlimited Fluorocarbon (Viton®) FKM Unlimited Fluorosilicone FVMQ Unlimited Hydrogenated Nitrile, HNBR or HSN HNBR 15 Years Nitrile (Buna-N or NBR) NBR 15 Years Polyacrylate ACM 15 Years Polyurethane (Polyester or Polyether) AU / EU 5 Years Silicone VMQ Unlimited Styrene Butadiene Edited April 23, 2014 by Bubber
KeithR Posted April 23, 2014 #4 Posted April 23, 2014 If they are Brown or Green usually means they are Viton Material. Check with a Hydralic Repair Shop...they should have a good supply of o-rings Keith
Big Auggie Posted April 23, 2014 Author #5 Posted April 23, 2014 Thanks for the suggestions folks. I called the Yamaha dealer and they will have 3 of the 4 I wanted to replace ready for pickup by noon tomorrow. Cheaper than anyplace I found online as they weren't charging for shipping. The only one they aren't sure about being able to get is the one on the bottom of the thermostat housing that holds the bypass tube. (Neither of us could find it on the schematic). Oh well 3 out of 4 isn't too bad. Thank heavens the weather is going to be wet and in the 50's so I'm not missing any riding!
Peder_y2k Posted April 23, 2014 #6 Posted April 23, 2014 You said: ""The only one they aren't sure about being able to get is the one on the bottom of the thermostat housing that holds the bypass tube."" Yamaha part 93210-14104-00 O-RING...........those are generic and easily found at auto and hardware stores. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
dna9656 Posted April 24, 2014 #7 Posted April 24, 2014 Like the man said o rings have LOTS or parameters like degree of squish along with diameter, width and thickness. All very tricky.
MikeWa Posted April 24, 2014 #8 Posted April 24, 2014 I think NASA has a few surplus ones they will part with cheap. Mike
dna9656 Posted April 24, 2014 #9 Posted April 24, 2014 I'm sure we have all noticed that when you can buy an o ring by application you'll (almost) never see it's specifications in common parts books. This is done so we have to get the rings from OEM sources; i.e. pay a higher price. O rings are really cheap but how do you measure a flexible ring with accuracy? How critical is accuracy? I can't just go out and buy o rings till I find one that fits, and what about the material? That's important too, the ring has to stand up to what ever it's exposed to... I'm sure we have some one here who knows the tech side of o rings... Maybe we should start a data base here in the library. Application, size and material, and maybe a source be it internet or retail. I think it's robbery to pay the dealer price for o rings...
Geobob Posted May 2, 2014 #10 Posted May 2, 2014 I just went through this today. I had my 88 apart and serviced the starter. Figured I should fix that drip that has been there for the past 8 year or so. Well guess what, just any o ring will not work. I tried very hard to make those o rings from the parts store work but there was no way I was getting the parts together. So now I'm waiting on OEM ones. Maybe the local shop will have them. On another note. I am surprised that they provide enough of a seal but apparently they do. I also ordered an new plastic thermostat cover.
Peder_y2k Posted May 2, 2014 #11 Posted May 2, 2014 I tried very hard to make those o rings from the parts store work but there was no way I was getting the parts together. So now I'm waiting on OEM ones. Maybe the local shop will have them. On another note. I am surprised that they provide enough of a seal but apparently they do. I also ordered an new plastic thermostat cover. You've just made the BEST choice. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
dna9656 Posted May 2, 2014 #12 Posted May 2, 2014 I was at my local dealer yesterday inquiring about the O rings in the plastic elbow connecting the water pump t the t-stat housing. He says they normally stock them (that tells me they are used on something build in the last 3 years) but they were out. I could bring them in and he could match them up to his generic supply. Well If I'm not mistaken I seem to remember that there is a really wide o ring on that elbow and he didn't have anything like that in his collection. I'm thinking of getting ALL the o rings for that water junction (t-stat, elbow, pipe) so I have to do this only 1 time.
Peder_y2k Posted May 2, 2014 #13 Posted May 2, 2014 do this only 1 time. That's the best way, you won't regret it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
dvuch1 Posted May 2, 2014 #14 Posted May 2, 2014 well this is difficult. the crossover pipe into the base of the thermostat housing is not just any o ring by design. It is flat on the side that goes into the t-housing and beveled where the crossover pipe inserts into it. AND there is no diagram that shows it!!! In the service manual there is a pic where it goes but on parts diagram there is no pic...the yamaha dealer looked back at the 83-85 VRs and thinks its #25 on the water pump diagram but I ordered it and waiting now..I doubt its the correct one by the picture....I did get the thermostat seal and oring for the housing. Hey I bought a thermostat at Oreillys but no hole in the rim is this a problem?
Neil86 Posted May 2, 2014 #15 Posted May 2, 2014 What p/n did he order? It appears the o ring is supplied as part of the coolant drain valve on the "Radiator hose" fiche. You might contact Skydoc to see if he has just the o ring foir that connection.
Geobob Posted May 3, 2014 #16 Posted May 3, 2014 I thought the o rings looked flat on one side because they have been in the bike for 25 years. My local dealer has nothing since Williamsport is a small town. I really hate to see the bike sitting there waiting for o rings.
Geobob Posted May 3, 2014 #17 Posted May 3, 2014 So the guy on Ebay said the guard was not bent but I can see that it clearly is but not as bad as the other two that I have. Has anyone had success at bending them back into shape with out heating them up and damaging the chrome. they are still available but they cost about $300 a side. I'll cook mine, bend them and powder coat before spending $300 on a new one.
Peder_y2k Posted May 3, 2014 #18 Posted May 3, 2014 Engine guards are soft steel and easily bent. Heck, if the guard can be bolted firmly to the frame, a large rubber mallet will move it around as req'd. Pry bars also work, using something between to minimize scratches like wood or plastic. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
dna9656 Posted May 3, 2014 #19 Posted May 3, 2014 I know a guy that will be joining the forums soon who is a O ring GURU! He ahs a date base that tells you ALL about o rings, theoretical size, actual size, type (there are 2 types type 1 and type 2 (how strange) So we'll get this o ring situation sorted out soon.
Geobob Posted May 5, 2014 #20 Posted May 5, 2014 Its funny that you mention this since last night after about 4 beer at about 2 am in the garage I took the rubber mallet to the engine guard and I do think I manage to move it back close enough to mount up the lower cowling with out forcing it. I am working on the fairing frame now. The mirror holder sections look a little too high for the panel to mount up properly to the lower screw hole. I figure beating them down with the trusty rubber mallet might do the trick. I really don't want to see these new panels crack. Waiting on my O rings. Engine guards are soft steel and easily bent. Heck, if the guard can be bolted firmly to the frame, a large rubber mallet will move it around as req'd. Pry bars also work, using something between to minimize scratches like wood or plastic. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
Big Auggie Posted May 9, 2014 Author #21 Posted May 9, 2014 That o ring you're talking about that's flat on the housing side and beveled on the crossover side didn't start out that shape. I took advice from this site and went to a hydraulic repair shop. They told me the o ring will take on the shape of the objects it's being compressed by. He gave me 2 regular o rings and I ended up using the thicker of the two. No leaks!
Geobob Posted May 10, 2014 #22 Posted May 10, 2014 I gave up on o rings from else where. I just got the OEM ones and it looks like I have a big flat rubber washer for the thermostat?. That one looked like it could used replaced but I thought it was attached to the thermostat. Guess not.
Geobob Posted May 12, 2014 #23 Posted May 12, 2014 So I replaced the o rings with the stock ones I just received and now it appears the plastic pipe seal is leaking at the water pump. And I think the by pass might also be leaking but I did not replace that o ring. \ Not sure what to try next.
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