Here's One For You...

[Midicat]

Started the bike after charging the battery...started fine and warmed up good. Turned on all lights..high beams, driving lights, signals...all good. Pulled front brake handle and watched the charging needle drop to the bottom. Let go and it bounced right back. Did this a couple of times and the same thing happened. So, shut the bike off and waited for 15 mins...no go. Would not turn over without a charger.... Any ideas?

 

Thomas

[utadventure]

I would suspect the battery. It may be a simple as bad connections or the battery may be shot.

 

Good Luck!

[Peder_y2k]

I concur with Utadventure, the battery or primary circuit is suspect.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[MasterGuns]

The same thing happened to me while on a ride in Oklahoma last year. Bike started just fine and everything electrical worked. Hit the rear brake and the headlight dimmed to almost off. Killed bike to check things out and the battery was almost completely dead. Installed a new battery and problem solved. Sold bike to GaryZ and haven't heard a word about electrical issues.

[Marcarl]

Check battery posts for voltage, then check the clamps for voltage. Now check how the voltage drops on the clamps when you turn the ignition on. If you have good voltage on the posts, but drops on the clamps, the clamps are suspect. If you have low voltage on the posts, the battery is suspect.

[Neil86]

If they all test good...check the Main fuse and its connector, beside battery.

[Midicat]

Checked voltage at posts and I got a reading of 12.07v. Drops to 5.6v while cranking. Is this normal?

 

Thomas

Edited April 19, 2014 by Midicat

[bongobobny]

Uhhh, no I don't think so. By cranking you are doing a type of load test on the battery and I'm thinking that drop is excessive...

[Midicat]

Thanks to everyone who replied. If the load causes the battery to drop that much, does this confirm the idea of a battery problem or is it possible that there is something else causing this load?

 

Thomas

[bongobobny]

Your battery is most likely toast Thomas. A load test after fully charging should confirm this. One of the guys up there should have a load tester to confirm this. What make is the battery and how old is it?

 

If you find you need a new one I strongly suggest a DEKA battery. Earl, Skydoc_17 sells these for a good price for what they are, a AGM battery that will outlast 2 of the lead acid type most likely (3 of the Wally World ones) and ave a whole lot more cranking power as well...

[Neil86]

The important part is the voltage was tested down on the actual post...not on the cable end.

 

A poor connection (dirty or "stacked" connections) can produce a excessive drop

if tested on the cable end and not the post.

 

Don't forget the negative cable either.

[Money Venture]

At 12.07 volts it is a 50% discharged battery. Should be around 12.6. There is a huge difference in that half volt. If your 12.07 reading was after a charging session then the battery is no good. To perform a correct test on the battery it needs to be charged to full charge, then let it sit for 12 hours to dissipate surface charge, then load test it. Voltage during load test will show condition of battery.

[Peder_y2k]

A good battery will produce around 9-10v while cranking.

--Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[dna9656]

Shucks I thought it would have been the brake light switch grounding out directly to ground...wouldn't that do the same thing (except for the bad battery part)?

[Peder_y2k]

Shucks I thought it would have been the brake light switch grounding out directly to ground...wouldn't that do the same thing (except for the bad battery part)?

If that were the case, the fuse for that circuit would blow......... buy you knew that already.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[dna9656]

If that were the case, the fuse for that circuit would blow......... buy you knew that already.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

 

:225:Fuse? Fuse? WE don't need no stinkin' FUSE! We got PENNIES!!!!