Shift Cam Segment upgrade

[MasterGuns]

I will soon be adding an upgraded clutch spring and thought that as long as I am in there I may as well upgrade the clutch cam segment to the improved designed segment from a newer model. I've read here that an upgrade would be a segment assembly for a newer XVZ1300. But before I order the parts I want to make sure I am ordering the correct stuff. The below PN's are for a 2000 XVZ1300TF. My bike is an 86 VR. The part numbers I intend to order are below and if this is not the correct way for me to proceed, please, someone jump in and get me squared-away. Here ya go:

 

Dowel Pin 93603-10049-00 (one)

Plate Stopper 4NK-18141-00-00

Segment 4NK-18185-00-00

Dowel Pin 93604-12037-00 (five)

Countersunk screw 90151-06013-00 (just in case)

Dowel pin 93604-16092-00

 

 

Thanks

[dingy]

Numbers match what I used for shifter upgrade.

 

Heat the countersunk bolt to break loctite, very tight & hard to remove.

 

Gary

[Venturous Randy]

The later 2nd gens have the one piece unit that does not have the pins. I looked at the parts diagram and it shows the one with the pins, but you don't want that one. See attached:

Not sure what the part number is.

RandyA

[dingy]

The later 2nd gens have the one piece unit that does not have the pins. I looked at the parts diagram and it shows the one with the pins, but you don't want that one. See attached:

Not sure what the part number is.

RandyA

 

The one on the right in pictures in Venturous's post is better one.

 

It still has pins, they are retained in between solid plates rather than the "formed" piece on left side.

 

Picture attached below with a different view angle, pins can be seen in both. Better one on left again.

 

Gary

[Venturous Randy]

After going back and looking at the part numbers, I now realize Masterguns did have the correct parts for the better segment. What I had not realized before is the better segment has all the different pieces as I thought it was a one piece unit. So, I learn something every day.

Dingy, I am sure glad we have you to keep us straight.

RandyA

[icebrrg3rd]

When I ordered my part, the counter guy said that I didn't need the new pins so I didn't order them. Turns out you do, but since I'm cheap, already had the bike apart at that time and had the main piece, all I did was take a dremel to the pins and cut them off to be the correct length. Works great.

 

-Andrew

[dna9656]

You guys are amazing!

Do we have something in the library that puts all this into some sort of resource?

Is there an interchange for motorcycles like Hollander is for cars etc.?

If we do this as we go along it'll be a LOT easier than sorting through mountains of posts...

[iphlue]

I finally found this thread after hours of searching. My situation is "almost" the same as the symptoms you all have described, but very different.

 

I have been feeling a very strange grind as if missing gears for a couple weeks. It would grind letting the clutch out while downshifting and engine braking. I could feel it in the clutch handle transmitted up through the fluid to my hand. It would do this once and not again for days... then again and not for days...

 

Yesterday it all let go and apparently I found perpetual neutral. Thankfully AFTER getting through the intersection and on the way home and at the beginning of a 3 day weekend. Somewhat comforting that I have a few days to figure this out.

 

Long story short, as you can see from the pics I've uploaded the pins are technically fine on my segment piece. So is the cheesy tin foil pin holder. What's NOT ok is where the hell is the head of my countersunk bolt? This allowed the segment to back out enough to create symptoms. I could shift forever either up or down and also even though I could feel neutral detenting, the neutral light never lit up. The rear wheel never did anything beyond a normal neutral reaction.

 

Some held back tears and half a bottle of wine and a nights sleep... alas, here I am with the found solution you all have provided.

 

It appears the bolt wasn't tight enough and the threadlocker has backed out and puddled in the hole near the bolt, thus wollering the head off.

 

SO, I see there is a newer segment with integral parts that does away with the tin foil holder. The part number 4NK-18185-00-00 apparently is the replacement but I can't find confirmation that it fits the 83 model. Anyone that can confirm this? The closest I've come is where I've found this part number.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61890&highlight=shifter+pins

 

This might also be helpful to some: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4NK-18185-00-00.html It shows what models use this segment but still doesn't confirm it's use in an 83... :-/

Edited May 24, 2014 by iphlue

[dingy]

Part #'s that are in 1st post will work on 83-93 Ventures & 85-07 VMaxs

 

Gary

[iphlue]

Thanks Gary for the quick reply. I'm finishing up my order this evening more confidently thanks to you.

[iphlue]

:confused24:do you know what the torque spec is for the segment countersunk torx bolt? I can't find a well defined answer.

 

An educated guess is that it is an M6 bolt and probably higher than grade 5... so, 120 inch pounds seems about right, but I REALLY don't want to do all of this twice...

 

This chart is helpful but inconclusive in this situation: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/ausertech/Torque%20Specifications%20of%20Small%20Screws.htm

 

The Service manual COMPLETELY skips this particular bolt. I've searched it 2 dozen times. Every bolt surrounding it is covered in section 3 in the pages 30-40 area...

 

:confused24:

Edited June 15, 2014 by iphlue

[iphlue]

I discovered the torque chart in section 8... it is listed there... now if I could just get the exhaust back together.