CLASS Controller

[dna9656]

Does anyone here fix these controller boards? Apparently it's not as easy as it seems. I had a guy that's supposedly trained in fixing circuit board issues and I didn't have any luck; I have 2 of these things and they are both apparently broke or this guy didn't fix them.

Before everyone tells me how easy it is to fix, it's not for all of us. I went through all the messages and got no where, I had this guy look and got nowhere. I need someone THAT KNOWS what's going on to look at these controllers. ANY help would be much appreciated; it's getting frustrating!

 

Any one know where can I get shrader valves to make the air suspension system a manual system? Just so I can get the road on the bike THIS year!

 

Thanks!

Edited May 5, 2014 by dna9656

[bongobobny]

Yes you can install shraeders, that turns it into a Venture standard. Only the Royales had CLASS. What is the unit doing or not doing?? You do know that it ONLY works with the key on accessory?

[dna9656]

Yes you can install shraeders, that turns it into a Venture standard. Only the Royales had CLASS. What is the unit doing or not doing?? You do know that it ONLY works with the key on accessory?

 

I am aware that it works only in "Accessory"

What's it doing or not doing? It's not working. It gives codes/ it doesn't give codes. That tells me there is an intermittent connection, when you flex the wires on the harness plug going into the controller the display goes blank and comes back on. There is a small crack in the CB outboard of the input plugs "home" on the board.

I have 2 controllers, an '83 and an '85.

They boot up properly then display an error code 1 or 4.

I have gone down the diagnostics list.

In measuring some pin locations I get 5. something volts, more than 5..... and less than 5.....I get Battery Voltage, and while measuring ONE pin I get a reading that ranges from 0 to 45 while the DC VOM is in the DC volts position.

I do not know enough to know what some of these readings mean.

I have a digital automotive meter. Somedays I wish I had the old man's huge Simplex VOM. I never saw the indicator needle go from 0 to (pick a number) without justification; like reading the voltage of a automotive flasher, THAT I get.

Some valve clicks when I turn the system on, as it should as described in the diagnostic guide.

The circuit boards were checked out by a guy that's supposed to know about repairing solid state components and he re-soldered a few broken solder joints.

Nothing looks burnt on the boards.

Is there never a problem with the circuit board underneath the one that seems to always have broken solder joints? None of the links concerning thing talk about the board directly below the display...

Sometimes one of the controllers boots up, I get NO code, the readout just shows all the options like it does during boot up. I push buttons on the controller and nothing happens, I have nothing to work with. near as I can tell SOMETHING should react to the input from the controller... hence my frustration.

 

I am aware the standard Venture has no on board pneumatic suspension; I think it's an extravagance anyway, I mean how often does a ride mess with that? It would be great if it works, it would be even better if I could ride the bike with SOME kind of suspension, be it automatic or manual. Sometimes there is such a thing as "too much ginger (fancy options) bread".

I do have my own air compressor so making changes to the suspension wouldn't be that hard on me.

Thanks for your response! Every bit of info helps!

 

Doug

Edited April 13, 2014 by dna9656
More info

[dingy]

I do not know enough to know what some of these readings mean.

I have a digital automotive meter. Somedays I wish I had the old man's huge Simplex VOM.

 

You do not want to use an older style meter, one with a needle readout. They are shunt type meters. They will potentially damage transistorized circuits instantly.

 

Gary

[dna9656]

You do not want to use an older style meter, one with a needle readout. They are shunt type meters. They will potentially damage transistorized circuits instantly.

 

Gary

 

See?! I didn't know that!, I wish I understood more than I do about electronics.

Thanks Gary!

[Ozlander]

I would plug your boards into a CLASS that works. Then you'd know if it's the board or the bike.

Look for any sockets in the bike connector that might be pushed back.

[dna9656]

I would plug your boards into a CLASS that works. Then you'd know if it's the board or the bike.

Look for any sockets in the bike connector that might be pushed back.

 

There is a guy in Tacoma that has one! Pete!

[bongobobny]

Well, if the controller lights up it's doing something! You probably have an issue with the compressor assembly, one of the solenoids hanging up, plugged compressor, etc.

 

Speaking of compressors, when manually airing up the shocks, ONLY use a manual one that is specifically designed for small volumes of air! Do not use a compressor that you would inflate a tire with, it would supply too big of a volume and blow the bladder on the rear, and blow the seals on the fronts!

 

I agree with you, for the most part CLASS is a mind stroke and really isn't all that functional...

[Trader]

Speaking of compressors, when manually airing up the shocks, ONLY use a manual one that is specifically designed for small volumes of air! Do not use a compressor that you would inflate a tire with, it would supply too big of a volume and blow the bladder on the rear, and blow the seals on the fronts!

 

 

 

With emphasis!!!!

 

The best thing is a hand pump....much like a bicycle pump. I believe there is a pump from Harley that also has a zero loss connector for somewhere around $50

 

You only want a few pounds in the front. If you have progressive springs most guys don't use any air.

 

And with a regular connector, you can loose a fair bit just disconnecting it. Enough to change your desired pressure anyway.

 

From what I've read on this forum, for a manual system, the harley pump is a good investment.

 

FWIW, I'm talking from what I've learned here...not from personal experience.

[bongobobny]

I use the Progressive one myself.

[mralex714]

 

With emphasis!!!!

 

The best thing is a hand pump....much like a bicycle pump. I believe there is a pump from Harley that also has a zero loss connector for somewhere around $50

 

You only want a few pounds in the front. If you have progressive springs most guys don't use any air.

 

And with a regular connector, you can loose a fair bit just disconnecting it. Enough to change your desired pressure anyway.

 

From what I've read on this forum, for a manual system, the harley pump is a good investment.

 

FWIW, I'm talking from what I've learned here...not from personal experience.

 

When I had a standard Venture I always used the air for tires at gas stations. I ran 21 up front and 70 in the rear. I also am looking to remove the CLASS system and go manual, but I haven't been able to find the parts I need.

[dna9656]

 

With emphasis!!!!

 

The best thing is a hand pump....much like a bicycle pump. I believe there is a pump from Harley that also has a zero loss connector for somewhere around $50

 

You only want a few pounds in the front. If you have progressive springs most guys don't use any air.

 

And with a regular connector, you can loose a fair bit just disconnecting it. Enough to change your desired pressure anyway.

 

From what I've read on this forum, for a manual system, the harley pump is a good investment.

 

FWIW, I'm talking from what I've learned here...not from personal experience.

 

You can use the regulator on your compressor to control the amount of pressure that's delivered to your air hose. If you can't get the regulator easily or if you want really good control over the pressure there are several small IN-LINE regulators that you can insert between the your air hose and air chuck. These in line regulators are made to be fitted to spray guns, they have a control knob and a gauge.

CAUTION: Do NOT confuse a regulator with a restrictor. A regulator regulates the pressure through a diaphragm and there is a gauge so you know what the pressure it. A restrictor DOES NOT have a gauge or a diaphragm; it only has a vale to control VOLUME or air. It controls pressure (after a fashion) more suitable for the spray guys they were designed for. When the trigger is squeezed on the spray gun there is an initial BURST or PRESUURE

then the volume feature controls the volume therefore the pressure but there is no gauge and no diaphragm.

So Set the regulator to the pressure you need and service your air suspension system, confirm with a GOOD gauge, you'll need on that goes to 80 or more lbs.

[Neil86]

Its handy to be able to adjust suspension pressure out on the road though ....

[Venturous Randy]

I have seen these comments about which pump to use and how you should not use this or that one and I want to share what has always worked real good for me and my 1st gen standard Venture.

Many years ago I bought one of the cheap Harbor Freight compressors that has the gauge on it. It is the yellow one that sells for about $9 or is on a coupon in Rider magazine for less than $6. This thing clips on the air fitting and does not appear to off seat the valve. When you turn it on, and it does have a roller type switch, the air buildup is slow enough that it is easy to monitor and when you get to the reading you want, turn the switch off. I have also found that the reading on the gauge is identical to the reading on a digital air gauge I have had for awhile.

I have also used the compressor to air up a rear tire that I had to plug out in the middle of nowhere. I was able to air the tire up plenty enough to get me to a service station, but the little yellow pump did get pretty warm.

Anyway, you guys can spend the big bucks for the pumps or you can try one of these and I have used one of these for at least the last 15 years.

I also have Progressives in the front so for me, I don't need any air there.

RandyA

Edited May 6, 2014 by Venturous Randy

[mralex714]

I have seen these comments about which pump to use and how you should not use this or that one and I want to share what has always worked real good for me and my 1st gen standard Venture.

Many years ago I bought one of the cheap Harbor Freight compressors that have the gauge on it. It is the yellow one that sells for about $9 or is on a coupon in Rider magazine for less than $6. This thing clips on the air fitting and does not appear to off seat the valve. When you turn it on, and it does have a roller type switch, the air buildup is slow enough that it is easy to monitor and when you get to the reading you want, turn the switch off. I have also found that the reading on the gauge is identical to the reading on a digital air gauge I have had for awhile.

I have also used the compressor to air up a rear tire that I had to plug out in the middle of nowhere. I was able to air the tire up plenty enough to get me to a service station, but the little yellow pump did get pretty warm.

Anyway, you guys can spend the big bucks for the pumps or you can try one of these and I have used one of these for at least the last 15 years.

I also have Progressives in the front so for me, I don't need any air there.

RandyA

 

This is my plan also.

[Venturous Randy]

When I had a standard Venture I always used the air for tires at gas stations. I ran 21 up front and 70 in the rear. I also am looking to remove the CLASS system and go manual, but I haven't been able to find the parts I need.

 

I would not want to use the one at a service station. You don't know if it has 60 or 200 pounds pressure and it is difficult to do the quick on and off and then check the pressure. To me, this would be a quick way to blow seals out.

RandyA

[dna9656]

Its handy to be able to adjust suspension pressure out on the road though ....

 

I wouldn't know Neil; I had a Royale in '96 that had an Inop CLASS and the 2 I have now have NO CLASS. HAHAHAHA

[dna9656]

When I had a standard Venture I always used the air for tires at gas stations. I ran 21 up front and 70 in the rear. I also am looking to remove the CLASS system and go manual, but I haven't been able to find the parts I need.

 

To convert to a usable manual class you need only shrader valves that will screw onto the air lines on the bike now.

Original valves with the nut and cap would work best IMHO.

I obtained a rear shock from a manual system, it has a valve on it, remove and mount that valve onto the existing hose to your rear shock; mount the valve to the ride dampener mounting plate from a non-Royale. Remove the seat and cover from the CLASS compressor, Find and disconnect the line that feeds air to the forks, the fitting will be a right angle fitting. Set this line aside. Remove the compressor (why carry dead weight?) At first I used the right angle fitting because it's crimped onto the line. More on that later. Lift the keeper thingies that holds the line to the frame until your line is loose to the fairing on the left side, snake the line along the fairing beside the battery until the open end is by the key switch. There is a round cover (left side of the ignition switch) there where the valve would be if your bike was not a Royale. Remove the bowl-shaped cover that's around your Ignition switch, you'll find a little "ear" there; this is where the vale goes on non-Royales. Remove the black bracket that provides the ear and the screw hole to hold the "bowl". Screw your second valve onto the end of your line and use the nut to mount the valve through this "ear". I Routed the line over the top center of the fork so it will be under the black bracket. Hopefully you got the valve caps with the valves, air up your system IAW the specs and you're good to go.

I used the existing right angle fitting that's crimped onto the line, I replaced the o rings that are used between the hose's threaded end and the valve adapters.

Now BEFORE you move the long air line to the front of the bike...Here is a better way but you have to get into the fairing to do this. Remove the long line from the collar it connects to. Put it in the spare parts been after you tag it. There is a short air line on the compressor with non-angled male fittings on each end. Remove it and set it aside. Examine the top of the fork, you'll find there is a collar on the top of each tube, 1 tube has 2 lines connected and 1 tube has 1 line connected. Screw the Schrader valve onto the short line you set aside and screw the other end to the collar that the long line was connected to. I think it's on the left side. Mount the valve to the black bracket and re-install that and tighten IAW the torque specs. Re-install the bowl like cover, snap the screw's cover back in place and air it up IAW the specs.

Edited May 6, 2014 by dna9656

[mralex714]

To convert to a usable manual class you need only shrader valves that will screw onto the air lines on the bike now.

Original valves with the nut and cap would work best IMHO.

.

 

Do you have any leads on where to get just the shrader valves? I was going to mount mine in the trunk.

[dna9656]

As I mentioned in my last post I would use the ones that came with the bike, otherwise I would try a 4X4 shop that's into vehicle lifting. Bear in mind you'll have to open the trunk and move what ever is in the trunk every time you want to air up or down. Recommend you mark each valve with front or rear and the min/max pressure. Another good thing to do is show that the tire pressure.

Edited May 7, 2014 by dna9656

[ricksbike]

:322:All good information,I had trouble with mine so I took it apart and soldered all and I stress ALL the connections inside,took a while,put it back together and haven`t had a problem with since,did it 3 years ago,was showing code E-4.