checking float level??

[muaymendez1]

I know there is a write up on checking the floats with a clear aquarium tube, or something of that nature, but I can't locate it.

Can someone point me in the right direction.

I don't think my floats are incorrectly set. I had bad fuel mileage but the bike runs well otherwise. No coughing, spitting, loading or starving for fuel.

I'm gonna change the plugs which will give me a chance to read the old plugs.

[etcswjoe]

Here is the link for checking the floats it focuses mainly on checking them off the bike but it may help:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24246

[muaymendez1]

Thanks.I've taken the carbs off many times I can do it and set the floats in 3 hours but I doubt the floats are off so don't want to go through the whole thing. Thought there was a different way of checking.

Guess I will have them off again anyway, changing plugs and a coolant hose.

 

Thanks for the link

[ACE50]

You can set(check) them 'wet'. It's in the manual if I recall.

[V7Goose]

Yes, it is in the shop manual. But for some strange reason, I have never been able to get an accurate reading with that method - always way low, as if the liquid is sticking in the tube instead of rising to full height. Might work better with the engine running (vibration), but I never tried that.

 

The only method I use is manual measurement with the carbs on the bench. If your floats have never been changed from the factory, they most definitely ARE set too high. If they have been set properly once, then there is almost zero chance that they have ever changed.

 

Lots of things can contribute to bad MPG numbers, but not generally the floats (depending, of course, on just what you mean by "bad").

 

In general, ALL 2nd gens are set way high from the factory, and properly setting the float level will usually give you about a 10% boost in MPG (3-4 miles more). Few people would label a loss of just 3 MPG as "bad". If your MPG numbers are CONSTANTLY below 33 at legal highway speeds, then you have something else wrong.

Goose

[muaymendez1]

Very interesting read as I was just complaining about 29mpg on my last 2up trip. Actually my first long trip on this bike. I will be changing the plugs, abd checking fir leaks. The bike runs well. I may have been lugging the motor a few times abd riding indicated 75mph for 60miles.

I was just telling myself that I will bee pulling the carbs off this weekend but ill look elsewhere before doing that again.

Thanks goose

[muaymendez1]

You also said something interesting. Legal highway speeds. Maybe a trip on s calm day on the highway at 65 can show me wear the bike would do optimally.

 

I tend to treat the throttle like a stuck lid on a tomatoe sauce jar. On any bike I have owned.

[saddlebum]

Hey Goose could this be applied to setting float levels on 1st gen MKII carbs as well? The manual only shows how to set them wet on the bike which is a pain because of accessability to the drain plugs with the carbs mounted. The other alternative seems to maybe check them wet with the carbs sitting level on the bench while gravity feeding gas to the carbs from a container perched high above the carbs.

Edited April 10, 2014 by saddlebum

[muaymendez1]

Saddlebim. I've only heard of the wet measure method here. Every carb I have done has been on the bench. It's the most accurate way to measure.

 

Golgwings, shadows....., Holley, mikuni, all of them on the bench.

[ACE50]

The wet method is more accurate way of measuring the floats because that's the way the carb actually works. What happens when the float is slightly twisted, which I've seem many times. Which side do you measure? How well does the valve shutoff?

 

That being said, I've always done it on the bench cause 'wet' is just a pain.

I have friends that do it that way and swear by it.

[V7Goose]

Very interesting read as I was just complaining about 29mpg on my last 2up trip. Actually my first long trip on this bike. I will be changing the plugs, abd checking fir leaks. The bike runs well. I may have been lugging the motor a few times abd riding indicated 75mph for 60miles.

I was just telling myself that I will bee pulling the carbs off this weekend but ill look elsewhere before doing that again.

Thanks goose

29 is way low unless you are running 85+ or have a significant head or cross wind. 75 should generally keep you in the mid to lower 30s even when heavily loaded. But because there are so many variables, especially related to wind drag and road conditions, that is why I stressed "CONSTANT" readings - one or two tanks of gas are not enough to tell anything. You are likely running on 3 or 3 1/2 cylinders, have significant carb sync issue or have a really bad fuel mix due to other carb problems.

Goose

[V7Goose]

Hey Goose could this be applied to setting float levels on 1st gen MKII carbs as well? The manual only shows how to set them wet on the bike which is a pain because of accessability to the drain plugs with the carbs mounted. The other alternative seems to maybe check them wet with the carbs sitting level on the bench while gravity feeding gas to the carbs from a container perched high above the carbs.

I've never touched a 1st gen carb. Of course you can obviously set them properly by measuring on the bench, but you would first need the correct spec to do it - otherwise it would be just trial and error.

 

If you want to try that without a spec, start by checking and recording the measurements when you first open them up, then set them all equal about 1/10th of an inch lower than the starting measurement. Now go out and honk on it hard at high RPM - the higher the revs under the greatest load with the throttle wide open is what you are interested in. If the floats are too low, you will be able to get the bike to briefly starve for fuel under those conditions when it sucks the bowls dry faster than the fuel pump can re-supply them.

 

Of course a clean fuel filter and tank screens are important before trying a test like that.

 

Frankly, I don't think all that would be worth the effort unless you had some reason to think the float levels were way off to begin with.

Goose

[Marcarl]

On the first gens, you can do them dry. With the bowl covers off, turn the carb upside down, look at the floats and you'll notice a curve cut-out on the top (now on the bottom) of the float. This should nicely coincide with the round casting circle on the main jet block. bend the tab to adjust either way.

If you would like to check this, hook all 4 carbs together as if they were on the bike, square and straight. Run clear hose from the drain ports with enough length to come to the outside and above the carbs. Hopefully at this point you have a Mighty Vac that will also pump pressure. You will now need an airtight bottle with 2 holes in the lid. Through the one hole run a hose you need to attach to the input of the carb, and the other end to the bottom of the bottle. The other hole is for the hose coming from your pressure source. You need to seal both hoses to the lid of the bottle. Now fill the bottle with gasoline and pressurize the input hose which will fill the carbs with gasoline. Once the bowls are full the flow will stop and pressure should be maintained at the source. You don't need much pressure, as these systems run with about 2 lbs pressure. With the hose ends held above the carb you can now open the drain screws and the fuel will rise to the same level as what is in the carbs. Once the flow has stopped, apply a bit more pressure to the bottle to finish and see the test results.

Hope this is clearer than mud.

[muaymendez1]

Does anyone know what ill effect stuck, leaking or dirty vacuum slides will cause.

[Marcarl]

Does anyone know what ill effect stuck, leaking or dirty vacuum slides will cause.

Poor performance, missing, poor mileage............

[muaymendez1]

Ok guys I am laughing my ass off right now.

I have to admit I am a DUm ahhh. I guess one could get bad gas mileage if one plug boot was no on. I mean completely off.. not on the plug. Just sitting beside it.

Im gonna hang my head against a wall

[mbrood]

Jose,

 

We ALL have had an oops here and there. A while back I was changing plugs and as I was finishing up the 3rd one my wife raced out with another "Oh come quick, I need your help NOW" moment. Got her taken care of, changed out #4 and put all of the plug wires back. The bike started fine but the test run started showing an occasional miss. That intermittent haunted me for a couple of days until I just couldn't take it. My dad's rule of thumb was to first check the condition of the spark plug tips to see how they are firing. Imagine my surprise when #3 was run down but only finger tight... any guesses what happens when it warms up... oops.

[muaymendez1]

Oh boy. I bought plugs and had to swap out a coolant hose anyway, but I decided to keep the plugs in. They are burning great, that it's except for the wet plug in cyl 3.

So I put it all back together resynched and I can only explain the experience of the ride with a small metaphor my dad used to throw around.

A raped ape!

Holy cow. When you don't have a reference point to contrast against ,running a on 3cyl seemed fine. Now firing on all cyl, figuratively and literally, this baby is alive. I expect to see a jump from 29mpg to at least 35mpg. Time will tell

[muaymendez1]

Update.

I'm getting 42 mpg but now I have a bad afterburn, back fire on decel.

Oh well, I'm gonna live with it

[tazmocycle]

you need to adjust the pms screws in or clockwise till it starts to miss a little and then turn back counter clockwise about 1/4 turn or till it smooths out. checkout the exhaust flanges and clamps to make sure they are tight and not leaking.

[muaymendez1]

you need to adjust the pms screws in or clockwise till it starts to miss a little and then turn back counter clockwise about 1/4 turn or till it smooths out. checkout the exhaust flanges and clamps to make sure they are tight and not leaking.

 

I did this 4 years ago on another bike but can't remember the location.

I drilled out the caps on the last bike so I know they weren't touched

[tazmocycle]

just below the chrome diaphragm cover toward the outside of carb you will see a small roundarea with a tiny little hole in it. you can drill it out bigger and use a sharp point screw into the hole and pry out.

[Neil86]

Yes, the caps face out on the 1st gen carbs....but on the RSV they are on the backside

of the carb.

 

Here is a picture of RSV carbs pulled out and upside down.....you'll see the cone shaped

caps that cover the pilot screws (one directly above the allen wrench)

http://www.venturerider.org/rsvcarbremoval/image116.jpg

Edited April 24, 2014 by Neil86