Barons Tach Install - Wiring

[coop]

Has any one wired a Barons 3" tach on a Royal?

 

I have the green to the neg side of the coil / harness wire to this side is white

 

Black to battery ground for testing purposes

 

Red & Blue right to the battery + for testing purposes

 

The tach runs smoothly between 1000 and 3000 when you rev over that the tach wants to bounce down. I can't take it past 4000 on the tach.....but the bike sounds fine.

 

Any chance it's because there is no load on the motor? I'm in the garage....

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Bob

[Freebird]

I ran into that exact same issue when I installed the Baron's tach on the RSV. The instructions had said to hook the positive wire from the tach to the positive connection to the coil. I had done that. The instructions said to run the other wire from the tach to ground but I had hooked it up to the negative side of the coil. It caused it to do exactly as yours is doing. I disconnected it and grounded it to the frame and it worked correctly. Somebody else had the same problem and when I told them how I fixed mine, they found the same thing on theirs.

[coop]

I ran into that exact same issue when I installed the Baron's tach on the RSV. The instructions had said to hook the positive wire from the tach to the positive connection to the coil. I had done that. The instructions said to run the other wire from the tach to ground but I had hooked it up to the negative side of the coil. It caused it to do exactly as yours is doing. I disconnected it and grounded it to the frame and it worked correctly. Somebody else had the same problem and when I told them how I fixed mine, they found the same thing on theirs.

 

Yes....

 

I first wired the red from the tach to the positive on the coil.

 

And the green to the neg side of the coil..... with black to ground and the blue to switch 12v

 

The tech told me to only go green to the neg side of the tach....and red / blue together switched. It's late and the kids across the street are sleeping so I can't hammer it but I think its doing the same.

 

So you have a wire to the neg side of the coil or a wire to the pos side of the coil?

You didn't state colors up above.... could you clearify?

 

Thanks,

Bob

[Freebird]

No, sorry but it was too long ago and now Yammer Dan has that bike so I can't look. I can tell you though, don't wire anything to the negative side of the coil. I assume that the black and blue are for the light in the tach? Then the green is the ground for the tack itself? Remove it from the negative side of the coil and connect it to ground instead.

[Freebird]

Did you get it working?

[coop]

Hey There..... no dice I think the tack is defective but you'd think if it didn't work it would be just dead. I double checked all my connections....they are all tight and correct. I double checked the plug I installed so I could still remove my windshield and it is fine as well.

 

I have a new unit coming on my nickel and we'll see what happens. Seems fine between 1000 and 2500 / 3000 rpm after that it's all over the place.

 

This is how I mounted it by the way....

[Freebird]

Looks good and looks almost the same as the one I had except it had the reservoir mount. Strange the way it's acting. Mine would rev to about that same point and then go to zero. I think it was Eddie that had the same problem when he was installing one. I told him how I fixed mine by removing the tachs negative wire from the coil and connecting it to the frame/ground and doing that corrected his problem also.

[coop]

Looks good and looks almost the same as the one I had except it had the reservoir mount. Strange the way it's acting. Mine would rev to about that same point and then go to zero. I think it was Eddie that had the same problem when he was installing one. I told him how I fixed mine by removing the tachs negative wire from the coil and connecting it to the frame/ground and doing that corrected his problem also.

 

That has me confused.... you mean the + wire don't you? The tach gets it's pulse from the neg side of the coil. You had to have the green on the neg side of the coil or you have have nothing at the tach.

[Freebird]

I guess I had better quit talking. It has been several years since I did it. I was thinking that there were two wires going to the tach. I know there are also two for the lights but I'm talking the actual tach. I thought there was one that went to the positive side of the coil and the other went to ground. Instead of going to ground, I had hooked it to the negative side of the coil and that caused the problem. When I moved it to ground, it worked correctly. Like I said though, it was several years ago.

[coop]

I guess I had better quit talking. It has been several years since I did it. I was thinking that there were two wires going to the tach. I know there are also two for the lights but I'm talking the actual tach. I thought there was one that went to the positive side of the coil and the other went to ground. Instead of going to ground, I had hooked it to the negative side of the coil and that caused the problem. When I moved it to ground, it worked correctly. Like I said though, it was several years ago.

 

Hey no prob.... thanks for trying to help. Yes instructions call for the green to the neg side and the red to the pos side. When having issues they recommend moving the red from the pos side of the coil to the same switched source that the blue is connected to.

 

Sorry for rackin your brain.... btw your other articles have helped me big time. I think the last one was the vmax rear swap.

 

I'll let you know what happens when the new unit comes.

 

Thanks again

Bob

[Freebird]

Did you see this post in the tech library? Not by me but jarred my memory a bit.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8810

[Eddie]

Yes it was me that had the problem, that was like 9 years ago . I have a hard time with remembering things from last year.

[Yammer Dan]

I didn't see this and am going to be gone today. I'll see if I can check.

[coop]

Eddie....no worries, I can't remember what I had for dinner last night! lol

 

Thanks Yammer Dan.....

 

Bob

[V7Goose]

That has me confused.... you mean the + wire don't you? The tach gets it's pulse from the neg side of the coil. You had to have the green on the neg side of the coil or you have have nothing at the tach.

OK, I just went and reviewed the schematic again to refresh my memory of this.

 

All four coils have +12V supplied via the Red/Black wires directly from the Kill Switch (that is how the kill switch works, it simply removes the power from the coils). The OTHER wire on each coil (different color for each) goes directly to the ignitor for the coil trigger. The trigger wire for coil #4 is white. This is what we would normally refer to as the negative side of the coil, even though it does not actually go to ground. Our coils are completely isolated from the battery ground other than what the ignitor may provide as a trigger. The trigger wire for your tach goes to this terminal on the coil.

 

I DO NOT KNOW YOUR SPECIFIC TACH, but it should normally have four wires, +12v, ground, trigger, and light. Your original post sounds like it is probably hooked up correctly.

Goose

[coop]

Yes Goose.... you are correct. It's definitely wired correctly. I'm hoping to connect the new tach and have it work perfectly. If not I will cut out a picture of my dog or wife..... probally dog and glue it to the face as a picture frame )

 

Thanks for taking the time to look at the schematic

 

Bob

[coop]

Well finally the replacement tach arrived today. tracking said it went to nevada first....just my luck.

 

ok so I hook it up... black on ground, green on neg coil, blue and red on 12v switched. ya see where this is going already?

 

fire it up.... same flipping response. the needle is all over the place. goes up to about 3g's and then wants to bang down.

 

so I yell a little, actually a lot, kick a couple things around and sit down to think.

I got no crimps, everything is soldered, even the green to the neg coil along with the stock wire.....soldered.

 

I know its not the ground or 12v because "she" (yes definitely a she..... a he couldn't be this difficult) lights up and goes up to 8000 and back to zero on power up. Gota be the coil.... so I look for the other coils, then I look some more. I figure they are so tucked in there they gota be part mouse, so run in the house and get a big piece of cheese.. I put it under the bike and I wait.

 

flipping nuttin

 

gee wiz... those things are buried. in fact everything on this bike is buried....

finally I find the 2 rear coils.... move my coil lead to the right side coil, fire it up and bingo! smooth as silk right up to 7g's

 

don't know why I couldn't get a good clean signal out of the front coil cause she's running fine.

 

my dad would say " take it easy son...these are the jobs that build character". if he was here I'd punch him square in the nose )

 

bob

[Bodaggit23]

All four coils have +12V supplied via the Red/Black wires directly from the Kill Switch (that is how the kill switch works, it simply removes the power from the coils). The OTHER wire on each coil (different color for each) goes directly to the ignitor for the coil trigger. The trigger wire for coil #4 is white. This is what we would normally refer to as the negative side of the coil, even though it does not actually go to ground. Our coils are completely isolated from the battery ground other than what the ignitor may provide as a trigger. The trigger wire for your tach goes to this terminal on the coil.

Goose

 

finally I find the 2 rear coils.... move my coil lead to the right side coil, fire it up and bingo! smooth as silk right up to 7g's

bob

 

I'm adding a tach to my bike as well and just trying to confirm:

 

Did you in fact move your coil lead (trigger wire) to the white wire from coil 4 Bob?

[coop]

Well it was the neg side of the rear, right coil. I can't tell you for sure that the wire was white.

 

I've worked on numerous wiring jobs in the last couple months and the brain ram is low.... hope I don't get the blue screen anytime soon. (

 

I'll be home in a few hours and will look and get back to you. I'm thinking orange.... I'll be back around 10 pm

 

Bob

[coop]

The way that picture is drawn is a little misleading or maybe we're looking at it backward.

 

The bank of coils where you have your red circle is actually the front coils. The rear coil wire I'm on is yellow and is shown on your drawing.

 

Bob

[Bodaggit23]

That's interesting, thanks so much for checking into it for me!

 

I've got it narrowed down far enough to try it I guess, if it doesn't

work I'll just try the next coil. Thanks again!

[coop]

You bet.... anytime. Let us know how you make out.

 

Bob

[Bodaggit23]

It works! I wired the trigger to the Yellow wire on the

right rear coil and it works perfectly smooth.

 

I think my el cheapo tach is way off though. It says I'm

idling at about 400RPM. To my ear, 2000 is my redline. lol

 

Doesn't matter much I guess, I wanted it more for pack

riding, when I can't hear my own exhaust over the

"Big Twins".

 

Anyway, just confirming the yellow wire from the right

rear coil does indeed send a flawless signal. Thanks!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4MMoKy6I3Y

[coop]

no 4 cly switch on that puppy? sounds like you need a tach adapter. I'm not sure but I may have a spare.... your welcome to it free of charge. let me know and i'll look for it tonight.

 

bob

[Bodaggit23]

no 4 cly switch on that puppy? sounds like you need a tach adapter. I'm not sure but I may have a spare.... your welcome to it free of charge. let me know and i'll look for it tonight.

 

bob

 

Sorry, I didn't see this post. I made my own post and was watching that one.

 

I actually bought the caps and diodes and made an adapter myself for three bucks. lol

 

I just need to remember or find where it's posted:

 

Which other coil wire I need or if it even matters.

 

I thought I read the two coils used were supposed to be the right side coils.