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Posted

Had the V Max gearing installed while traveling home from Florida after Christmas. Once home I filled it to the required level with gear oil, installed the drive shaft, rear wheel, and everything else. All went together nicely. Thought I'd go out for a wee ride today. Went to engage the clutch and I heard a crunch, like the gears in the final drive are not engaging or something in that direction. So-- now I guess I take the back end off the bike again and try and see what the problem is. This really sucks!! I hope they put the final drive together properly. Anyone had this happen to them?

Posted

Check with kbran here....pretty sure he has the V Max on his scoot and he'll be able to help you.

Boomer....who sez when yer packing pygmies ya don't need V Max.:whistling:

Posted
OK you had the driveshaft out etc, so my initial feelings are you only THOUGHT you had the driveshaft in correctly! Been there, done that...

 

Pretty sure Bob is correct ! :080402gudl_prv:

Posted

Don't have the V drive but sounds like Bob got it. I missed the shaft connection into the u-joint yoke the first time. That makes a heck of a noise on the first swing.

 

Hoping for the best.

 

From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Posted

Just took everything off down to the wheel. Spun the wheel and everything seemed OK, so I put the mufflers back on, the bags, the seats, started it up and put it in gear and click, click, click, click. Getting really good at taking it apart and putting it back together again. Tomorrow evening I'll check the drive shaft. Way to P-O'ed to do anything more today. :depressed:

Posted

The easiest way to put the driveshaft into the u-joint is to pull it out of the rearend coupling and using Vise Grips, clamp onto the lip of the big end of the driveshaft just tight enough to be able to hold the front end of the driveshaft up. Stick the driveshaft up into the hole and you can pick up the end of the u-joint and slightly twist the driveshaft if needed and it will easily slide in. Now you can install the rearend coupling on the driveshaft and push it up and start the nuts. The seal will reseat as you pull it together.

I have found that on my bike that I did not have to remove the wheel assembly from under the bike to pull the rearend off and put it back. just pulled the axle and removed the brake caliper link and had plenty of room.

RandyA

Posted
Just took everything off down to the wheel. Spun the wheel and everything seemed OK, so I put the mufflers back on, the bags, the seats, started it up and put it in gear and click, click, click, click. Getting really good at taking it apart and putting it back together again. Tomorrow evening I'll check the drive shaft. Way to P-O'ed to do anything more today. :depressed:

When you spun the wheel, did you have the bike in gear?

RandyA

Posted

If you take the rubber boot off out of your way at the front U joint you can see what is happening better. If you look on the swingarm there is a hole you can stick something in there to help guide things together...

Posted

I have it all pulled apart again and now the drive shat will not pull out of the swing arm. I grabbed the end with channel lock and wiggled it as I pulled and it is stuck on something. I've now ruined the seal at the final drive end of the shaft but that's easily replaced. Just wondering how much pull I can out on this shaft in an effort to remove it.

 

I have a shop manual from Yamaha which is just about useless.

Posted

If you have enough of the shaft showing you can use a hose clamp to attach a slide hammer on the shaft and give it a good wack or two, it's probably wedged between the tube and ujoint.

 

I use a coat hanger with a small hook bent into the end, go thru the hole Bongobob talked about to hook the ujoint and align it with the shaft when re-assembling.

Posted
If you have enough of the shaft showing you can use a hose clamp to attach a slide hammer on the shaft and give it a good wack or two, it's probably wedged between the tube and ujoint.

 

I use a coat hanger with a small hook bent into the end, go thru the hole Bongobob talked about to hook the ujoint and align it with the shaft when re-assembling.

 

I'll give that a try tomorrow evening. Was worried about damaging something but I think brute force is the only way this shaft is going to come out.

Posted

Bobby always amazes me. No matter what the question, problem or topic. He comes armed with answers, ideas and knowledge. Same goes for quite a few of ya. Cool beans Bobby!!

Posted
Had the V Max gearing installed while traveling home from Florida after Christmas. Once home I filled it to the required level with gear oil, installed the drive shaft, rear wheel, and everything else. All went together nicely. Thought I'd go out for a wee ride today. Went to engage the clutch and I heard a crunch, like the gears in the final drive are not engaging or something in that direction. So-- now I guess I take the back end off the bike again and try and see what the problem is. This really sucks!! I hope they put the final drive together properly. Anyone had this happen to them?

 

I am glad you figured it out. I am taking notes as I will be tearing mine apart next week to change the swing arm bearings. They have never been touched in 11 years so it is time.

Posted

A couple years ago when I changed my tires I went ahead and did the spline service. I missed getting it back on the engine side a few times. I invented some new words too. Stevie Wonder has a better chance of getting it to line up than I did.

Posted

Another thought would be to start the bike and carefully let out on the clutch and see if it kicks the shaft loose. Since you have already torn up the seal, I doubt you will hurt the shaft if you are careful.

RandyA

Posted
I am glad you figured it out. I am taking notes as I will be tearing mine apart next week to change the swing arm bearings. They have never been touched in 11 years so it is time.

 

I sincerely doubt that they need being changed but they might need some greese. There is not a lot of movement in there and they are sealed up pretty good, but the danger is that the grease dries up and that can certainly damage the bearings.

 

I have a 2000 model Venture with 33.000 miles and tore the back end off this winter since I wanted to go through everything and make sure everything was in good order and greased up. I doubt that the swingarm had ever been pulled and the bearings were actually fine. The grease was still kind of soft but since I had this all apart then I decided to shoot new bearings in the arm and grease everything heavily.

Remember to have new seals at hand part no: 93106-28023-00. It is possible to get the older seals out without destroying them but a small mistake and they are gone and you are left stranded till you get a hold of new seals.

 

Undo all the brake hoses, shock air hose, speedo cable and other stuff from the swing arm before removing it. I remember there is one little bolt that holds a clamp for the brake hose if I remember right, "far in on top of the swing arm on the right hand side", that is a little tricky to get at. Don´t remember how I did that but remember I had to take a deep breath and figure out a solution. I did get it out and in again and think I had to bolt loose/drop down the AIS reed valve to get access for my hand.

There is a very good write up by Palyboy up on how to do all this in the technical library: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72631 I used that to guide me and it was a great help and saved me some time for sure.

Wish you all the best with your project :)

Posted
I'll give that a try tomorrow evening. Was worried about damaging something but I think brute force is the only way this shaft is going to come out.

 

Ron.

 

On the left hand side where the swing arm joins the rubber boot there is that little plastic/rubber plug on top of the swingarm like Bob pointed out. Pry it out and you will have a reasonably large hole to look through and into the swing arm at the yoke and the wedged shaft end. Take a flash light and beam it in there and have a look at the situation. It is always better to see what is wrong if possible, to get a better idea of what method to use to correct the problem.

If the shaft will not come out easy then maybe you should get someone to pull on it while you start up the bike and very slowly release the clutch just a millimeter at a time. The other person might then be able to pull the shaft out before the yoke turns over and catches it again so to speak.

Just a thought :)

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