CANBus LED Bulb 3157

[PGunn]

I have been looking at these and found a whole bunch of different answers into the use of them. Now from my understanding they contain a resistor to bring the load equal to what the load would be from a standard bulb. This is so the computer will be able to tell and display when the bulb burns out. I know a little more involved than that but I'm sure you see where I am going here. Now has anyone tried using these on their bike without load resistors to make the flasher flash as it should? I'm thinking if the built in resistor brings the load up to where it should be they "should" work on the bike.

I will be replacing the sockets in my lights to upgrade them to current "Blade" type bulbs and I'm looking at different light bulbs to use in them. One thing I did find is if you do what I am planning you will need a bulb that will "fill" across the inside as much as it can.

[MikeWa]

Yes I use LEDs on my bike. They did make the flasher work faster so I installed a .33 ohm resistor inside the flasher. This does not create the load some equalizers do. It just slows the flasher.

 

Mike

[PGunn]

Mike first thanks for you reply, I know what your talking about and is one option but I'm looking for a way to keep it as OEM as I can. With replacing the sockets for LED Light Bulb Connector Wedge type I'll be putting the matching ends on the new light socket leads. Now there are I believe 2 ways around this and one is what you explained and the second is put a load resistor in line to each bulb.

 

Now my question in a shorten version is the CANBus bulbs have that load resistor built into the bulb and if anyone has tried using these on their bikes yet to see if it does in fact makeup for the load resistor. I'll have to order one and a socket and test it I guess.

[Flyinfool]

FWIW

Some of the websites that sell both CAN Bus and non CAN Bus LED bulbs also have a warning to NOT use a CAN Bus bulb in a non CAN Bus application. I am not sure why this is, but when they put the warning in bold red letters, it may be worth considering.

[PGunn]

I have seen that but can't find a real reason why. I'm thinking if you already have a car say that already has standard OEM LED's and you put in an CANBus LED it could cause a system over load due to the added resistor in the CANBus? Guess I'll have to go back and search some more on that issue as to why not. I'll post it here when I do.

[crazygaucho]

Excuse my ignorance but I've always wondered

if you have to put and extra load(resistor) in order to make a flasher work etc

 

doesn't kind of kill the purpose of installing led to lower consumption?

[BratmanXj]

Excuse my ignorance but I've always wondered

if you have to put and extra load(resistor) in order to make a flasher work etc

 

doesn't kind of kill the purpose of installing led to lower consumption?

 

IF you put a "load" on each leg of the system, yes it does defeat most of the savings of LEDs.

 

If you swap for a digital flasher relay or put the "load" (1 resistor) on the existing flasher relay it is beneficial to run LEDs

[Flyinfool]

Excuse my ignorance but I've always wondered

if you have to put and extra load(resistor) in order to make a flasher work etc

 

doesn't kind of kill the purpose of installing led to lower consumption?

 

Running lights do not need any type of load resistors or anything else to let them work.

It is only the turn signals that need the load resistors to get the flash rate correct. (unless you modify the flasher).

So if you think about it, when the turn signal is lit is the only time that the load resistor is pulling power. A turn signal when being used is only on 50% of the time it is being used.

It is very rare to ever have a turn signal on for more than 1 minute, the auto cancel tries to turn them off after just 15 seconds. So for turn signals it really does not make any significant power savings to have LEDs vs incandescents, BUT the amount of time the a turn signal is actually illuminated is very small compared to the amount of time that a running light is illuminated. This is where the power savings really are. Especially if you have a LOT of running lights that can be converted to LED.

 

Power saving is not the only reason to have LEDs, A good quality LED is brighter than the incandescent it replaces. The LED turn signal with its instant on and instant off makes it more noticeable than an incandescent of equal brightness. These are both desirable objectives.

[PGunn]

And after hours of looking and reading I still don't or can't figure out why you can't use Can Bus lights in a non CAN Bus system. I'm thinking it is because that resistor is always in use which would defeat the purpose of changing over to the LEDs to start. Thanks for the help guys....

[M61A1MECH]

Why does the resistor defeat the purpose of using LEDS?

The only time you need resistors for LEDs is if you use them to replace the turn signals, the resistor just adds the load that the flasher needs to flash at the correct speed. You do not need resistors for brake lights or running lights that are changed to LEDs from incandesent.

 

If you are trying to reduce the electrical draw on your system by installing LED lights that is fine, and it works, but if you do not have enought safety margin in the system to handle the short term load that is on the system when the blinkers are on then you have to much load on the system.

 

The main reason many folks change to LEDs is because they are brighter than the stock bulbs like in the case of the signal dynamics 100 LED tail light/Brake light it packs a lot more light output into the same space and has better coverage.

 

For $11.00 they worth trying.

[crazygaucho]

that is why I wont' hesitate to go Led on running lights ........ but for turning signal lights I will think twice about it.

 

there are blinking/flashing leds

 

I would research and try to use those and eliminate the flasher

[MikeWa]

Can-Bus LED = 18watts. Regular LED = 1.5 watts

Use a Can-Bus in a car designerd for regular LEDs and instant overload. Use it one designed for a light bulb ?? Try it and let us know how that works out.

 

Mike

[PGunn]

I still may try it but it will be a while before I get to them, worst case I can use them in the wife's car or swipe hers and try them... LOL yea that would go over real well.

Here is what I do know and what I am trying to do....

 

1) first thing is get the draw from the lights as low as I can.

2) adding the load resistors isn't that big of a deal really.

3) CAN Bus lights have the resistor ALWAYS in play, In other words the load is constant.

4) LED has lower draw as a constant and only goes up when the blinker / flasher is activated.

 

Now the reason for all this is I am putting together a HF Trailer with a few options which will require a battery to carry the load for some "options" I'm including and will need to charge or keep charged (trickle charge) the battery when riding. I have already changed out the driving lights for custom projection LED's and I am working on a custom dual projector LED headlight as a plug and play type of install. So by doing what I have done so far the draw has dropped quiet a bit already.

[Flyinfool]

I still may try it but it will be a while before I get to them, worst case I can use them in the wife's car or swipe hers and try them... LOL yea that would go over real well.

Here is what I do know and what I am trying to do....

 

1) first thing is get the draw from the lights as low as I can.

2) adding the load resistors isn't that big of a deal really.

3) CAN Bus lights have the resistor ALWAYS in play, In other words the load is constant.

4) LED has lower draw as a constant and only goes up when the blinker / flasher is activated.

 

1) LEDs will do that.

2) If you are putting LED turn signals in all 4 corners you only need 2 load resistors. not one per LED.

3) So it looks like the CAN bus LEDS will not have any power savings over incandescent at all since the resistor is always in use, including the driving lights.

4) Correct, so not a big deal.

 

Now the reason for all this is I am putting together a HF Trailer with a few options which will require a battery to carry the load for some "options" I'm including and will need to charge or keep charged (trickle charge) the battery when riding. I have already changed out the driving lights for custom projection LED's and I am working on a custom dual projector LED headlight as a plug and play type of install. So by doing what I have done so far the draw has dropped quiet a bit already.

 

OK so now we need more details on these "options" that need a separate battery ....

I love playing with electricity.

[MikeWa]

Actualy if you use LEDs in the turn signals on an RSV you do not need load resistors. Adding a .33 ohm resistor to the flasher will slow it down without increasing the current draw.

 

Mike

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[PGunn]

Well with the trailer the big draw will be the convertible top hydraulics to open and close the top of the trailer with or without extra baggage loaded (it will easily lift a few extra pounds on the top of the trailer. The rest will be lighting and possibly a sound system and a power converter so plug it and charge the battery much like in a travel trailer. From what I have laid out so far the room needed for the complete setup is less than one would think. One concern is leaking HYD fluid but I think I have that taken care of also and as always pictures to follow when I start really getting into it.