Head Light is very dim?????

[cachris]

Hi All

 

I’m new here and I just bought a 1983 venture. It does have a few problems though.

The first one that I’m taking on is my head light. When the bike is running the bulb is very dim. High beam or low beam doesn't seem to change anything. Measured voltage at the bulb 2.5 volts both high and low beams.

 

I was hearing two relays clicking while messing with the high\low switch. One was gold in color with only the red wire with white stripe being hot under the low beam condition. Nothing was hot under high beams.

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-10134458.jpg

 

 

One was black in color with 2 red wires with white stripes but only one was hot under the low beam condition. Nothing was hot under high beam.

 

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-10134511.jpg

 

So I started to walk down the trouble shooting chart and got to step 6.

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/troubleshooting.jpg

 

That is assuming t this is the reserve lighting unit?

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/reservelightingunitcallout.jpg

 

So I get to “Check for voltage on (Y) and (G) wire from the dimmer switch to the computer monitor”

 

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/Dimmerswitchwires.jpg

 

On the yellow I get 3.76 volts

 

There are 2 green wires with no voltage on either of them. Anybody seen this or have an idea where to start.

 

Thanks

[Venturous Randy]

Welcome aboard and we hope you join. It will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike.

A dim headlight is a typical symptom of your CMS having a cold solder joint. It does concern me that both your high and low beam are giving you the same reading, which could be the start button, but this will give you a place to start.

RandyA

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328

[bongobobny]

The RLU is a bigger black box mounted behind the relays attached tom the frame piece the relays mount to. It has wires coming out of the side and go to a connector...

[cachris]

Thanks everybody.

 

So I pulled the computer and it looked really good. I will solder the pins tomorrow and see what happens.

 

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192102.jpg

 

 

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192110.jpg

 

 

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q76/ChrisBonner/xvz1200%20pics/2014-03-11192119.jpg

[Venturous Randy]

Usually, I have found that the problem areas are where the blades from the connector come through the board. I also use plastic ties to hold up the wiring harness to take some of the pull off these pins when I put the dash back in.

RandyA

[Flyinfool]

As long as you are in there........

Since you already have the computer out, If you ever intend to convert to a HID or LED headlight or LED brake/tail light, Now would be the perfect time to install the jumpers.

[cachris]

Ok the board is soldered.... but now when i hit the start button the headlight goes out but the bike doesn't crank over.... Is it possible I messed the broad up, affecting the starting circuit. On a good note the headlight has about 9 volts now at the bulb and the high low seems to be working as well. The computer seems to be working better. Just wont turn over now.

 

Thanks Chris

[Flyinfool]

The headlight going out when you hit the starter button is a good thing, it is supposed to do that.

 

As far as not cranking, check to be sure you did not bump off the red Kill switch on the top of the right handlebar. You would not be the first to have done that.

[KIC]

Or is it possibly in gear with the kick stand down ?

[cachris]

The bike is on the center stand and in neutral. does the CMS unit have anything to do with the starting circuit?

 

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[Neil86]

No, CMS shouldn't affect cranking, however just a guess.....since fixing CMS and you now show 9 V at headlight with key on....it should be close to battery voltage...might test your battery voltage....it might be only ~ 9 V there too. Doubt it will crank at that low of voltage.

If battery is normal ~12.6 V...possibly when pulling dash out the starting circuit cutoff relay was disturbed....on an 83 should have 4 wires...2 Red/White, 1 Black/yellow, 1 Skyblue. It'll be up there with all the other relays above headlight.

[cachris]

Thanks i will check it out.

[cachris]

the sky blue wire on the relay is reading point 0.8 volts. when the start button is pushed in it jumps to .9 volts

 

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[Neil86]

But is the battery voltage normal?

[cachris]

I'm getting 11.8 volts at the battery

 

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[Neil86]

okay...key on....in neutral test both R/W wires at relay with it plugged in...should both have battery voltage.

[cachris]

ok the keys on its in neutral and I'm not getting any power to the red wires

 

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[cachris]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/3adune2a.jpg

 

also tested the large red wire that goes up towards the kill switch start button and I'm getting 11.6 volts at the wires to the start button

 

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[Neil86]

Are you getting battery voltage on both R/W wires to the Kill switch....or just on one.

[cachris]

yes I have 3 red wires 1 large red with yellow stripe and two smaller reds with a white stripe all getting 11.8 volts

 

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[cachris]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/adazune8.jpg

 

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[Neil86]

sending a PM to you

[cachris]

just tested the relay again and now I'm getting power to one red wire

 

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[cachris]

can I swap relays out just to test http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/vugaba3u.jpg

 

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[Neil86]

you need power on both R/W at the relay to be able to crank.