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Posted

I rode the 83 today for the first time! HORRAY!!!

It seems to be missing a little but it hasn't run in a ling time so maybe it just needs to be run...

I bought it in Portland Oregon (I live in the Puget Sound area in WA.) after it had sat outside for 2 years. With the help from this and other (Venturerider) forum(s)

I got through the drive shaft lube (it was dry) the rear brake flush, installing a new fuse block, stopping the carbs from leaking, installing a new set of clutch disks, going through the swing arm, playing with the CLASS System.

What still needs work:

The Class System, I have a friend that is trained in solid state repair that is going to go through the control box.

The left front brake is "on", heating the rotor up and causing drag. I suppose that will take at least a rebuild kit if not a new(overhauled) caliper.

I installed a new 'O' ring in the radiator valve but I think it's still leaking. Does anyone have a spec on that 'O' ring so I can buy one at the auto parts store?

I need both right and left forward cowling pieces, and the center piece; the ones in front of the rider's knees.

I need a left side engine cover. While my bike has the intercom I really don't care if I get a side cover with the intercom holes in it or not; if I get it working I can make a hole, if not my wife and I have blue tooth equipped helmets; so I really don't care about the radio or the CB for that matter.

I haven't looked at the carb diaphragms or sliders yet; sort of afraid to.

I have to change the spark plug wires.

Any advise on what other systems I should check would be appreciated. It does have a strong dose of Seafoam in the tank of fresh gas.

I will post this over at Venturers.com too.

 

:cool10:

Posted

Congrats on getting it running.

 

since you have it running, I would put a heavy dose of SeaFoam in the tank and run that through for the whole tank of gas, it will help clean up your carbs and fuel system. there are a couple of other tricks out there on the site to go about cleaning carbs without having to take them apart.

Posted

What Dan said about the level! Also, there is a teeny tiny hole for pressure relief in the bottom of the reservoir that gets plugged up and that can keep the brake on. There are other reasons as well...

Posted

Worked on the '83 some more today. I removed and cleaned all the calipers & hardware, re-installed the pads with the calipers' cups fully collapsed into the caliper it self so there wouldn't be any brake drag. I re-installed them one at time and checked the rolling resistance each caliper added to the drag, to see if the bike rolled any easier. Well it did roll a bit easier but not like it had no caliper load at all. The rear wheel spun easily when I re-installed it after greasing the bearings and the drive shaft. The front tire turns freely as well so I don't understand why the bike is so hard to push when there is no caliper drag to speak of. Before anyone asks yes it's in neutral...

Is it just a heavy bike? I let it run for a while today, it was too hard to back it out in to the drive to ride it. The carbs DEFINATLY need a tuning; it won't idle even when warm without the choke on somewhat. It seemed to run smoother after it was warm too. I haven't checked those pesky diaphragms yet...

Posted
What are your tire pressures? The reason your bike is hard to push is it is heavy, 800 pounds heavy.:backinmyday:

RandyA

I will check it in the morning!

Posted
What are your tire pressures? The reason your bike is hard to push is it is heavy, 800 pounds heavy.:backinmyday:

RandyA

 

I have a 700lbs. road star. Iy pushes easier but I will be checking the tire pressure.

Posted

Hmmm, check and make sure that the spacer on the axle next to the rear caliper bracket is in the correct position and not on the wrong side, and for that matter even there! If not in the right place it will cause the caliper to drag not being aligned properly...

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