Class system, compressor not coming on

[Jr Rides]

Hello all,

I'm about to ride from Mt. Vernon, Ohio to Daytona Beach, Florida for Bike Week. My 1987 Venture Royale (recently bought off of a guy in Michigan through e-bay) has a problem with the CLASS System. I went for a ride yesterday (pre-trip) and when I hit a bump in the road it feels like the front forks bottom out, like there is no air in the forks!

I turned the key on to Acc position and the Class system readout comes on but, it reads

0 psi (front and rear). I do NOT here the compressor come on at all.

 

I have not ridden this bike any distance at all yet (just bought). I did test ride before I bought it and didn't have this issue. I brought it back from MI to my home in OH in a trailer. The only things I have done to this bike after getting it home was remove the Seat, Backrest and Armrest (on trunk) and had them recovered, then re-installed. I also put in a new Battery.

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Did I do something while R&R the Seat or Battery? There is no reset to the Class System, right? I have read the service manual for the Class system and there is nothing for my problem.

Oh, there is no CODES coming up on the Class System Display.

 

It's 6:40 Am on Friday morning and I'm wanting to get started on my trip!

 

Thanks for any help!!!!!!!!!!

Edited March 7, 2014 by Jr Rides

[MiCarl]

The CLASS pump will not run until you adjust pressure at the controller. It's not an automatic thing that watches the system - it will only respond to your input.

 

When you turn the key to ACC it'll self test and end up displaying 0. After you select Front or Rear it should show you the current pressure.

 

If you increase from that point the compressor should kick on. If you decrease you might hear the hiss of air escaping the open valve, but it is quiet.

[Jr Rides]

I have tried to push the front, rear buttons and the press the buttons to increase or decrease. Still no change in the pressure or hear any noise from the compressor.

Thanks for the reply.

JR

[MiCarl]

Do the buttons seem to work? You should be able to see changes to the display when you switch Front to Rear, Auto/Manual, change pressure setting etc......

[Venturous Randy]

As Carl noted, you can only adjust the CLASS with the key on ACC.

The biggest problem with these units is cold solder joints on the circuit board. You can pull the unit apart and look at the solder joints and usually see one that looks different. Use a small solder gun, like one of the pencil ones and let it get real hot and touch the joints. You may want to put a little solder on the point first. You want to make sure the tip is real hot as you do not want to stay on the solder point very long. This is a fairly common problem with these old bikes.

As far as the bump, the best fix on that is to install a set of Progressive springs. I'm sure your old springs are worn out. You may also be low on shock oil.

I have to say that I admire your enthusiasm, but it would scare me to take off on any bike without knowing any more than you do about this bike. I would at least change out all the fluids, check the brakes, look at how old the tires are and are they properly inflated, does the bike still have the old fuse block?

I have 164,000 miles on my 83 and know it pretty good inside out and would still do a good going over before I would take off on a trip and always carry a lot of tools with me.

Good luck on your trip and keep us posted.

RandyA

[bongobobny]

Yes, and there can also be crud under the rubber pad for the switch magnets, or for some reason no voltage to the compressor, or the solenoids could be bad, etc etc etc...

[bongobobny]

If you want to take a chance, here's a unit that may or may not work but it might help troubleshoot as to whether it is the controller or the compressor...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MH-YAMAHA-1984-XVZ12-1200-VENTURE-ROYALE-AIR-SUSPENSION-LEVELING-UNIT-/281247362853?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417ba62f25&vxp=mtr

 

This one looks better but more money...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1300-AIR-COMPRESSOR-ASSY-WITH-WIRING-HARNESS-/251364666564?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a86806cc4&vxp=mtr

 

Another one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-88-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1300-XVZ-1300-Air-Compressor-Suspension-Pump-Actuator-/161217097397?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258949aeb5&vxp=mtr

 

The fact that the controller lights up and reads is actually a good sign! Other than the switches needing servicing it may be good. To service the switches disassemble the unit and you will find a rubber pad with round pucks on the bottom where the buttons come down. Clean that pad thoroughly, soap and water is permitted, or rubbing alcohol, just make sure it is thoroughly dry before reassembling. On the PC board you will see what looks like a grid where the pucks make contact when pushed. Take a pencil eraser and polish those grids and then clean with alcohol. That should do it. You can also resolder the edge connector for the main harness at this time.

 

There is also the possibility that the PO disabled the compressor and converted the suspension to a manual system. Follow the air line from the front forks and see of you find a schrader connector. If you do, use a hand pump to fill the shocks, do NOT use an air line...

[yamagrl]

When, in the rare occasion, I must troubleshoot an electrical issue myself, I start at the component that is not coming on. Kinda like...if the living room light won't come on, check the lightbulb before you start to mess with the switch...

 

That being said; simply add/jump power to the compressor. In the bottom right hand area of the 86-87 Simplified Wiring Diagram (thanks Dingy) is the class compressor and the class compressor relay. You will see that the R/B is where you will need power. There should be no power in the normal state. Make sure that you have a good ground and when voltage is added, if it come on...it's good, if not... here is the problem.

 

Viola! You have officially arrived at "Square One"

 

 

[Jr Rides]

Thanks to all for replys.

The key in the Accessory position and then depressed the manual button and it came up.

Working great.

[videoarizona]

Good to hear, JR.

 

But when you get back, I would recommend that you do take the circuit board out (pics and instructions on this site), touch a hot solder gun to the solder joints on the underside of the connector. It's only a matter of "when" those joints become intermittant.

 

Our VR's are almost bullet proof...but it's important to get to learn your beastie...besides it's fun!

 

Have a safe and wonderful trip!

[Venturous Randy]

This thread is over six months old. What ever happened? Did you make the trip?

RandyA

[SteveO1125]

So I have re-soldered the board connections and all looks good. I have also checked the operation of the compressor pump as well as the solenoids and all of them work also. The class display shows zero pressure front and rear but no error codes. if i cycle between front and rear I can hear the solenoids click but the compressor wont start

[Patch]

Know its a pain but, I would run 12 volts to the compressor directly to see if the motor works!

if so then you know there is a broken wire or connection.

But check the class fuse first

[Patch]

red blue wire from the class connector - read the voltage 12 ish?

w/b & y/b same thing look for 5 ish Volts

 

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[Pasta Burner]

So I have re-soldered the board connections and all looks good. I have also checked the operation of the compressor pump as well as the solenoids and all of them work also. The class display shows zero pressure front and rear but no error codes. if i cycle between front and rear I can hear the solenoids click but the compressor wont start

Might be a stupid question but you didn’t say you were pressing the high medium or low auto or trying to adjust manually. Just toggling between front and rear will not activate the compressor, only show you the current pressure in the system.

 

also did you re solder the entire board or only what you thought were questionable joints?

[SteveO1125]

Might be a stupid question but you didn’t say you were pressing the high medium or low auto or trying to adjust manually. Just toggling between front and rear will not activate the compressor, only show you the current pressure in the system.

 

also did you re solder the entire board or only what you thought were questionable joints?

 

Pretty much the whole board was touched up. no matter what I press the compressor wont kick in. I can hear and feel the front solenoids click though and the display shows no errors

[Pasta Burner]

When I took my controller apart it was obvious someone previously tried to re-solder the board and didn’t know what they were doing. Some joints were even bridged, but after fixing the superficial defects it still didn’t work. Mine showed all characters on if I remember correct. Anyway I decided to remove and re-solder the entire board. That did the trick. I’m certified to solder and inspect solder and wiring for NASA manned space flight so I have a bit of experience in this realm. I only mention that because even some some joints looked ok to me on the surface.

 

did you run 12v directly to the compressor as I believe Patch suggested? Using test leads from a battery tender is an easy consistent 12v power supply without compromising your battery or having to keep running the bike. You need to make sure the compressor runs before any further troubleshooting.

 

even once I got things responding as they should the compressor wasn’t strong enough to build enough pressure within the specified time and the controller errd out. I took the compressor apart and lubricated the innards with pneumatic tool oil. That did the trick for that issue.

 

also I think I forgot to plug the power harness back in once and scratched my head a few minutes figuring that out. Remember to keep a systems thinking mindset and avoid getting hyper focused on one spot.

 

check that the filters aren’t clogged too. And if the motor seems to want to run but won’t give it a little love tap, not sure of that motor has brushes.

[Pasta Burner]

Just another thought...What does the display show when you press the auto settings? Can you toggle between auto and manual? Does the self test work? All characters should show on the display for a few seconds when the key is switched to the acc position. Just checking to see if your display is working correct.

[Patch]

red blue wire from the class connector - read the voltage 12 ish?

w/b & y/b same thing look for 5 ish Volts

 

Page 7 - 111

 

if you did this test then you will know it is the wiring or the motor.