StarRider07 Posted March 7, 2014 #1 Posted March 7, 2014 Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!! I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on. What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps. To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did: I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in. **Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up. I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in. After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there. I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken. What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this. Greg
Flyinfool Posted March 7, 2014 #2 Posted March 7, 2014 Were you running it at idle, in gear, on the stand? My 1st gen clunks like crazy when run in gear on the center stand at idle. The clunking is the individual power pulses from each time a cylinder fires, and it is racking the backlash in the drive train back and forth. Try either taking it for a ride or using the rear brake to put some load on the drive line so that the gears don't rattle. Don't get carried away and burn up the rear brakes. Even just running the engine at a higher speed to get away from the resonant frequency of the drive line might help.
Cougar Posted March 7, 2014 #3 Posted March 7, 2014 Give it a few days for the oil to soak into the new friction plates then come back and tell use how happy your are :-) (did you soak the new frictions plates) for the new install I just installed the EFM Auto Clutch with brand new Barnett Friction plate but I have not had to a chance to try it out yet. Good luck !
saddlebum Posted March 7, 2014 #4 Posted March 7, 2014 Were you running it at idle, in gear, on the stand? My 1st gen clunks like crazy when run in gear on the center stand at idle. The clunking is the individual power pulses from each time a cylinder fires, and it is racking the backlash in the drive train back and forth. Try either taking it for a ride or using the rear brake to put some load on the drive line so that the gears don't rattle. Don't get carried away and burn up the rear brakes. Even just running the engine at a higher speed to get away from the resonant frequency of the drive line might help. I first discovered this when burnishing in a set of brake pads with the bike on the stand Also when you tightened the bolts did you tighten them in stages in a staggered pattern or did you just run them up tight in circular pattern, one after the other. It is always best to tighten in stages in a staggered pattern. the first course being to just bottom all bolts lightly snug. This helps prevent getting the plate cockeyed.
saddlebum Posted March 7, 2014 #5 Posted March 7, 2014 Were you running it at idle, in gear, on the stand? My 1st gen clunks like crazy when run in gear on the center stand at idle. The clunking is the individual power pulses from each time a cylinder fires, and it is racking the backlash in the drive train back and forth. Try either taking it for a ride or using the rear brake to put some load on the drive line so that the gears don't rattle. Don't get carried away and burn up the rear brakes. Even just running the engine at a higher speed to get away from the resonant frequency of the drive line might help. I first learned this while burnishing in a set of rear brake pads with the bike on the kick stand Also when you tightened the bolts did you draw them in evenly in a staggered / crisscross pattern in stages or did you just run them up in circular pattern. You should always use a staggered pattern to avoid getting it cockeyed or distorted.
StarRider07 Posted March 7, 2014 Author #6 Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) Were you running it at idle, in gear, on the stand? My 1st gen clunks like crazy when run in gear on the center stand at idle. The clunking is the individual power pulses from each time a cylinder fires, and it is racking the backlash in the drive train back and forth. Try either taking it for a ride or using the rear brake to put some load on the drive line so that the gears don't rattle. Don't get carried away and burn up the rear brakes. Even just running the engine at a higher speed to get away from the resonant frequency of the drive line might help. WOW, I sure hope that is the answer. Yes the bike is on a stand (bought that stand from a user here, can't remember who though) Clutch lever pulls in nicely and putting it in gear felt normal. The shifter felt totally normal. I just don't remember this clunking sound before. Sounded like it was broken. When I get home (can't wait) I will try again by applying the rear brake. Can't take it for a ride because still ice on snow outside. Do you remember that small pressure ring at the very back behind all the plates? I put that in so that the ( faces the clutch cover, not towards the back. In other words, the rounded part is sitting against the read and the raised part is up against the first plate, pointing (if you will) towards the clutch cover. Like this: (||||| hahaha, hows that for a diagram. Greg Edited March 7, 2014 by StarRider07
StarRider07 Posted March 7, 2014 Author #7 Posted March 7, 2014 Give it a few days for the oil to soak into the new friction plates then come back and tell use how happy your are :-) (did you soak the new frictions plates) for the new install I just installed the EFM Auto Clutch with brand new Barnett Friction plate but I have not had to a chance to try it out yet. Good luck ! Hey Cougar. Yes, I did soak them overnight actually. However, after putting them in the bike, they sat in there with no oil for about a week because some sh!t came up and couldn't get back to it. I was so tempted to put in an auto clutch. After you get to ride it for a while, please tell us all how you like it. Greg
StarRider07 Posted March 7, 2014 Author #8 Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) I first discovered this when burnishing in a set of brake pads with the bike on the stand Also when you tightened the bolts did you tighten them in stages in a staggered pattern or did you just run them up tight in circular pattern, one after the other. It is always best to tighten in stages in a staggered pattern. the first course being to just bottom all bolts lightly snug. This helps prevent getting the plate cockeyed. Yes, when tightening them, I did stagger the pattern. Right down to the last torquing with my in/lb wrench. Greg Edited March 7, 2014 by StarRider07 I mistakingly said I used a ft/lb wrench.
Sylvester Posted March 7, 2014 #9 Posted March 7, 2014 Yes, when tightening them, I did stagger the pattern. Right down to the last torquing with my ft/lb wrench. Greg Do not use a ft/lb torque wrench. Not accurate that low a torque. Should use an in/lb torque wrench at about 76 in/lb. It is possible that you stretched the bolts.
StarRider07 Posted March 7, 2014 Author #10 Posted March 7, 2014 Do not use a ft/lb torque wrench. Not accurate that low a torque. Should use an in/lb torque wrench at about 76 in/lb. It is possible that you stretched the bolts. OOOPS!!!! Yes I used an INCH/lb wrench. I purchased one just to do this job because I read that my ft/lb would not be accurate at that small torque. I will edit my post. Thank you.
IronMike Posted March 8, 2014 #11 Posted March 8, 2014 I put mine in a zip lock bag with the oil to soak, then I re-used that oil. Just saying. Easy way, no dirt gets in and oil is useable afterwards.
GeorgeS Posted March 8, 2014 #12 Posted March 8, 2014 I have installed them on two bikes, and never heard Any type of Noise !! When you put the pressure plate on, it IS possible to Mis - Position it !! Did you know that ? Read the Instruction sheet again !!!
StarRider07 Posted March 9, 2014 Author #13 Posted March 9, 2014 I have installed them on two bikes, and never heard Any type of Noise !! When you put the pressure plate on, it IS possible to Mis - Position it !! Did you know that ? Read the Instruction sheet again !!! HI GeorgeS, Yes I did know that. I mentioned that in my post: "I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in." According to many users, when the bike it up on a stand with no resistance to the back tire, there is some knocking (sounds broken) when in gear at idle. No noise in first, however, by the time I put it in third at and let it run in idle,,,OMG!!!! give it some throttle and the noise goes away.
StarRider07 Posted March 9, 2014 Author #14 Posted March 9, 2014 I am done with the clutch. Dumped the old oil, flushed it (for the hell of it) with some inexpensive motorcycle oil, dumped that, then new filter and good oil. Still up on the stand, I fired it up, clutch lever felt great, goes into the gears as smooth as ever. Damn knocking is still there running in gear in idle. I have been told by a few users that this knocking is normal when the bike is in the air, in gear, running idle, with no resistance to the back tire. I got a phone call from Rick who put my mind at ease letting me know that it will sound like it's falling apart when idling in gear. No noise in first gear, very little in second, very obvious in third and horrible in fourth. Didn't even try fifth in idle. HOWEVER, with throttle (about 3000 RPM) no noise in the first 4 and tried 5th with throttle, still no noise. Well,,,, except the awesome noise (music) coming from my BUBS. hahahah Greg
Flyinfool Posted March 9, 2014 #15 Posted March 9, 2014 Now drop that puppy down off the stand and go for a ride. Ya know you want to.
StarRider07 Posted March 9, 2014 Author #16 Posted March 9, 2014 Now drop that puppy down off the stand and go for a ride. Ya know you want to. I wish I could. We still have snow. Been melting the last couple days so very wet and still a lot of sand on the roads. My driveway and street out front is still snow/ice covered. I HATE WINTER!!!!
spke Posted March 9, 2014 #17 Posted March 9, 2014 I can vouch for the noise being there with wheel off the ground and idling in gear. I was worried too. Cant remember why I did it, might have been when I did my clutch, but it was the first time I had tried that scenario. I didn't think it was anything I did wrong with the clutch but thought maybe I had stumbled across something (bearing, gear, u-joint) worn and making noise in the drive train. Went so far as to take my jack and stand to a buddy's house and put his Venture up in the air for the same test. His made the same noise.
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