cabreco Posted March 1, 2014 #1 Posted March 1, 2014 Very quick question: I added the chrome rotor & caliper covers to my 84. When I added JUST the rotor covers & connected the speedo cable I spun the front wheel to make sure it worked. The fron wheel free wheeled & I could read 2 1/2 mph. When I attached the calipers & brakes the front wheel would not free wheel like before. (it does turn say one turn of the wheel) Once I squeezed the brakes an the calipers set, the front wheel was tighter. So my question is: Is this normal? or should my front wheel STILL be free wheeling when the brakes are not applied. I really never noticed before (I have changed brakes on her before) She rides fine but I just want to make sure the fronts aren't dragging. She felt a little heavier to push but that might just be in my mind.
dacheedah Posted March 1, 2014 #2 Posted March 1, 2014 should be free, I would pull off and remove pads to see if you have a piston stuck. Make sure they are clean and seals look good. Might try refreshing the brake fluid.
MiCarl Posted March 1, 2014 #3 Posted March 1, 2014 Disc brakes have some drag because there is no spring that retracts them. You should be able to turn the wheel without much difficulty, but you won't be able to just spin it up and let it coast.
cabreco Posted March 1, 2014 Author #4 Posted March 1, 2014 Ok so I removed the calipers, & pads. I compressed the pistons on both sides of each caliper & reassembled. I spun the wheel & she free wheeled. I applied the front & back brakes so the pistons close. Now I am able to spin the wheel 2 full turns before it comes to a stop. When I pushed her she felt right this time. I think what happened is when I previously reassembled the brakes I did not compress both sides of each caliper. I think I am good now. Sometimes it just takes a little help & double check. Thanks guys for your help. Now I'm off to wire LEDS to the new bling!
bongobobny Posted March 2, 2014 #5 Posted March 2, 2014 OK with the chrome caliper covers there are different sized spacers that go on the axle...
cabreco Posted March 2, 2014 Author #6 Posted March 2, 2014 OK with the chrome caliper covers there are different sized spacers that go on the axle... Spacers? Neither one of my gen 1 bike had spacers.
dacheedah Posted March 2, 2014 #7 Posted March 2, 2014 anytime I change pads I clean those pistons very well before compressing them back in, Brakes are in a dirty environment but they like to be very clean. Fresh fluids never hurt. Glad U have it figured out
CaptainJoe Posted March 3, 2014 #8 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Contaminated brake fluid... Flush it... There should be no drag, what so ever, on your rotors.... The hydraulic action will literally pull(vacum) the piston away from your brake pads... if... the fluid is not contaminated and seals are not compromised ... leaving no friction at all on the rotors... Edited March 3, 2014 by CaptainJoe
Venturous Randy Posted March 3, 2014 #9 Posted March 3, 2014 I suspect the drag occurred because when you installed the rotor covers you moved the forks farther apart the amount of the thickness of the covers. This moved the inside pads closer to the rotor and it started rubbing. When you pushed the pistons in and pressed the brakes again, you moved them to a new set point. What causes the pistons and pads to retract away from the rotor it the design of the O-rings. The cross section of the o-ring is square and when the piston moves forward, the inside edge of the o-ring moves with the piston and when the fluid pressure is released, the o-ring pulls the piston back slightly. This is the way all calipers, whether on a car or bike are designed. If the pads are in a slot that allows them to move in and out easily, they will float between the piston and the caliper until the piston is moved in and they press on the caliper. RandyA
CaptainJoe Posted March 3, 2014 #10 Posted March 3, 2014 I suspect the drag occurred because when you installed the rotor covers you moved the forks farther apart the amount of the thickness of the covers. This moved the inside pads closer to the rotor and it started rubbing. When you pushed the pistons in and pressed the brakes again, you moved them to a new set point. What causes the pistons and pads to retract away from the rotor it the design of the O-rings. The cross section of the o-ring is square and when the piston moves forward, the inside edge of the o-ring moves with the piston and when the fluid pressure is released, the o-ring pulls the piston back slightly. This is the way all calipers, whether on a car or bike are designed. If the pads are in a slot that allows them to move in and out easily, they will float between the piston and the caliper until the piston is moved in and they press on the caliper. RandyA I stand corrected... the seal(s) do in fact push the pistons back, when the pressure on the brake fluid is reduced.... The main point was tying to get across is to change the brake fluid. It should be changed every 5-7 years or so... It's an 84 Right? Hopefully the piston and seal isn't compromised.
cabreco Posted March 3, 2014 Author #11 Posted March 3, 2014 ... It's an 84 Right? Hopefully the piston and seal isn't compromised. New fluid is in the plans for this riding season. I'm pulling off the anti dives & getting block off plates...so at that point freshen it up. There is obviously a slight drag since w/o the pads the wheel spins for 20 or so revolutions vs the 2 once it is assembled. (just like my truck brakes do) The wheel is easy to move but I do hear a slight rub. (my HH pads are new) The big concern I had was at 1st assembly she was HEAVY to push. Once I broke her down again & reassembled she felt the was she did before the addition of the covers.
cabreco Posted March 3, 2014 Author #12 Posted March 3, 2014 I suspect the drag occurred because when you installed the rotor covers you moved the forks farther apart the amount of the thickness of the covers. This moved the inside pads closer to the rotor and it started rubbing. When you pushed the pistons in and pressed the brakes again, you moved them to a new set point. RandyA I tried to take a shortcut and initially only pushed the pistons in just enough to get my pads back in...and I wound up making more work for myself. Short cuts & loopholes don't work I should practice what I preach to my kid!
Venturous Randy Posted March 4, 2014 #13 Posted March 4, 2014 New fluid is in the plans for this riding season. I'm pulling off the anti dives & getting block off plates...so at that point freshen it up. QUOTE] Andy, have you replaced your fork springs with Progressive yet? RandyA
cabreco Posted March 4, 2014 Author #14 Posted March 4, 2014 Andy, have you replaced your fork springs with Progressive yet? RandyA When I bought the bike 2 years ago, that was job #2 right after I rebuilt the slave cylinder!
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