rutman Posted February 25, 2014 #1 Posted February 25, 2014 Fellas I got a question. Bought a carbtune and attempted sync last Sat. Went by directions in tech section. When I hooked it up and cranked the bike the rods started bouncing in time to the engine. Are they supposed to do that? Even thou they were moving with the engine idling, I still adjusted them to as close as I could get. When I revved the throttle, they moved then became stationary. Did I do this correct? Am I missing something? Do the rods jump in time to the engine? Bike seems to be running great.
Barrycuda Posted February 25, 2014 #2 Posted February 25, 2014 Fellas I got a question. Bought a carbtune and attempted sync last Sat. Went by directions in tech section. When I hooked it up and cranked the bike the rods started bouncing in time to the engine. Are they supposed to do that? Even thou they were moving with the engine idling, I still adjusted them to as close as I could get. When I revved the throttle, they moved then became stationary. Did I do this correct? Am I missing something? Do the rods jump in time to the engine? Bike seems to be running great. When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly.
Marcarl Posted February 25, 2014 #3 Posted February 25, 2014 When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly. Sounds about right!!!
Yammer Dan Posted February 25, 2014 #4 Posted February 25, 2014 When the bike is running the rods will move up and down to the engine. You are looking to be as accurate as possible with carbs 1&2, 3&4 and then sync L.side and R side. Maybe someone else can chime in with more knowledge, but you still will have them " jumping" slightly. When hitting throttle, they will jump higher, but should settle down fairly quickly and evenly. :sign yeah that:
rutman Posted February 25, 2014 Author #5 Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks guys. I think I got lucky and did it right.
Flyinfool Posted February 25, 2014 #6 Posted February 25, 2014 Did you install the restriction tubes. The restrictors do help to calm down the bouncing, but do not eliminate it.
rutman Posted February 25, 2014 Author #7 Posted February 25, 2014 Did you install the restriction tubes. The restrictors do help to calm down the bouncing, but do not eliminate it. yes I put them in. I heated the rubber hoses a little to make them easier to slide in. its a tight fit.
Barrycuda Posted February 25, 2014 #8 Posted February 25, 2014 :sign yeah that: YAY!!!! I contributed a technical piece that the gurus said was right!! Woo hoo.....
M61A1MECH Posted February 25, 2014 #9 Posted February 25, 2014 Told you that would happen, good on you.
Hucklecatt Posted February 25, 2014 #10 Posted February 25, 2014 I still have a set of the mercury-based synch tools - even these move as you have described, though not quite as much. So yes, you are tuning the pair, the other pair, then the two pairs. A long screwdriver is very useful for this task. You will notice immediate results in riding, and will want to revisit this procedure if you readjust the idle screws or if your machine is working out built-up carb residue from sitting.
Squidley Posted February 26, 2014 #11 Posted February 26, 2014 Also remember that the short ends of the hoses that have the restrictor tubes in the go closest to the carbs.....
djh3 Posted February 26, 2014 #12 Posted February 26, 2014 I remember something about raising the idel up a few hundred RPM too. I belive that will take some of the pulse out also.
billmac Posted February 26, 2014 #13 Posted February 26, 2014 I remember something about raising the idel up a few hundred RPM too. I belive that will take some of the pulse out also. also don't push too firmly against the screws when adjusting. I bought a long Phillips screw driver at HF and took the handle off, cut about 6-8" off the shaft and put the handle back on. Sure made getting across to 1&2 adj. screw easier. yes I measured before cutting.
tazmocycle Posted February 28, 2014 #14 Posted February 28, 2014 the bars will jump because the vacuum is only when the intake stroke is pulling the gas/air mixture into the cylinder. you need to try to keep the motor around 1k rpms to keep it pretty steady. as you adjust the screws you'll hear it change some, either slow down or speed up, according to how bad their off. sometimes the setting will change with just pushing on the screws, best to blib the throttle a little after a few turns, just to let the linkage set back down incase binding of rods, springs and cables. it's not really a hard job if you go step by step slowly. you'll fell the difference if they are out of sync some.
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