Brake Mods

[Condor]

Copied from another thread.....

 

Shimming - Even if you try the make the best Shims in the World on a Lathe, made out of one Piece with a small Gap or made out of two half moon shaped Piece, the Amount of Pressure you can bring on the Shims and the Handlebar with those two 6mm Millimeter Bolts are not enough to put a secure Pressure on the Assembly. It sure will hold standard daily use, but in a dangerous Situation, the M/C can turn downwards when you try to grab into the Lever. Not as safe as i would want to be. I been there because of my Fault, not tightening the Bolts in secure Manner and believe me, this a Experience you won't share.

 

As a Sidenote, i for one, i'm very sensitive to my Controls and Levers. They all have to be in THE right Place and when they not are where they should be, i stop immediately to correct this Issue. I wouldn't ride for more than one Block without proper Setting of the Levers on my Bikes.

 

Piston Size - the 1Gen have 14mm Piston Diameter, that good to feed the front right Caliper in the liked Brake System. If you put a 2Gen M/C on your not delinked Bike, you have much more hydraulic Force on this one Caliper. The 2Gen M/C is 5/8 " and has also another Leverage Ratio. When you mount this M/C to feed your single Caliper, the usage of the front Brake turns into digital Excitement. This goes while pulling the Lever to ... no Brake, almost no Brake, BRAKE !!!!!

 

So either you delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers from the bigger M/C or you find a smaller Piston Diameter M/C, which doesn't exist from Yamaha, up to my Knowledge.

 

 

Here's my position on shimming Squeeze. If the handle bar masters are going to slip or rotate on the tubing with shims, they would do it without the shim because of improper torqueing. 6mm bolts will give plenty of torque compression to make the masters stationary. The weak point will be the threads in the aluminum body due to over torquing , and that exists, shims or not.

I understand what you're talking about in delinking. I hadn't thought about the rear master driving the 2ndGen front caliper. I wonder if it could??? The 2ndGen calipers I have are the 2 piston varity with the floating offside pads. I wonder if it's the right way to go??? Hmmmm.... Got to think about this somemore....

[Squeeze]

We agree on the Aluminium Thread for being the limiting Factor on the Pressure which can be applied to both, bare Clamp or shimmed Clamp.

 

The Problem is, you have to bring on a Lot more Pressure to keep both, M/C and the Shim not only in place but prevent them from turning. If the M/C would slide sideways, that wouldn't be that dangerous, but if it's turning, there might be a real big Problem. Remember, this will definitely not happen while riding along the Boulevard to your favourite Hooter's or DQ, this happens when your desperately and strong grab after your Lever, the Brake Lever!

 

Only Solution i could live with is to mechanically mount Shims to both sides of the Clamp. When saying mechanically, i mean, welding or Bolts or something like that. But that's Way to much Hassle and brings up new Problems on the Clamp side.

 

That's all i have to say about this, i wouldn't do it and i won't suggest doing so. As you may have noticed, i keep on talking you out of this. It's too risky without Need and Risks we have enough while riding. We better do not add up home made Challenges.

 

Floating Calipers are not the Way i would go. My personal Experience says they have not the best Performance, and so do experienced Guys.

 

If you want to 'upgrade' your Brakes for better Performance and if you talk about a '86 upwards 1Gen, get a Pair blue Star Calipers from 2000 to 2005 Model FJR 1300, R1, R6. Delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers with the 14mm M/C of your 1Gen. If your only looking for shiny Calipers, get a Set of 1Gen and get them chromed or ceramic coated.

 

If that's not enough braking Power, make up some Brackets for 320 Brake discs and get 320 mm steel casted Discs. This will stop you on a Dime.

[Condor]

We agree on the Aluminium Thread for being the limiting Factor on the Pressure which can be applied to both, bare Clamp or shimmed Clamp.

 

The Problem is, you have to bring on a Lot more Pressure to keep both, M/C and the Shim not only in place but prevent them from turning. If the M/C would slide sideways, that wouldn't be that dangerous, but if it's turning, there might be a real big Problem. Remember, this will definitely not happen while riding along the Boulevard to your favourite Hooter's or DQ, this happens when your desperately and strong grab after your Lever, the Brake Lever!

 

I can understand your point, but I don't think it's a strong one Squeeze. Sorry. As far as the shim rotating all you would need to do it drill a small hole thru the shim, and the bar tubing, and tap a pin into the hole. It'll never move. However I don't feel a pin is needed, but if it is, it's a simple fix.

 

Only Solution i could live with is to mechanically mount Shims to both sides of the Clamp. When saying mechanically, i mean, welding or Bolts or something like that. But that's Way to much Hassle and brings up new Problems on the Clamp side.

 

That's all i have to say about this, i wouldn't do it and i won't suggest doing so. As you may have noticed, i keep on talking you out of this. It's too risky without Need and Risks we have enough while riding. We better do not add up home made Challenges.

 

Floating Calipers are not the Way i would go. My personal Experience says they have not the best Performance, and so do experienced Guys.

 

As a performance brake they might not be the greatest, but they are better than the brakes on the Mark II 1stGen's.

 

If you want to 'upgrade' your Brakes for better Performance and if you talk about a '86 upwards 1Gen, get a Pair blue Star Calipers from 2000 to 2005 Model FJR 1300, R1, R6. Delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers with the 14mm M/C of your 1Gen. If your only looking for shiny Calipers, get a Set of 1Gen and get them chromed or ceramic coated.

 

I have thought about that. DaveG and several others have done this mod to their 86 ups for performance reasons. I've also seen some of the 1stGen calipers polished out and think they're still ugly....

 

If that's not enough braking Power, make up some Brackets for 320 Brake discs and get 320 mm steel casted Discs. This will stop you on a Dime.

 

Like you posted I ride to Dairy Queens.....

 

....

[Squeeze]

Well, let's agree to disagree on the Shimming ...

 

May my Point be strong or weak in your Opinion, it's just not worth the Work and Money AND the Piston Diameter won't fit with de-linking.

 

I can't stop you anyway. Just make sure, if it goes wrong, i can still stop by and Slap your back of the Head and say "Hey, what i said ...." :rotf:

 

I doubt that these floating Calipers would provide better braking Power than a Set well maintained MKII.

 

Like you posted I ride to Dairy Queens.....

As i remember some of your Postings, i'm sure that your Way to the DQ brings you through a Lot of long winded back Roads ,and because of your Weakness in DQ Matters, you're ought to take them as fast as you can. :) :)

 

P.S.

If you look out for very fine M/C's, outstanding Brake Power and Control and a very very nice Appearance, take a Look here ...

 

http://www.isr-brakes.se/products/

 

I use their radial M/C's on my Max along with two 8-Pot Calipers in front and 320mm casted Discs ...

[Guest KitCarson]

Hey Condor: I tried some of that linking to the front one afternoon. I was at the cycle shop with a lot of brake lines.....I just temp used some long brake lines and hooked the left front caliper to the rear..and used a straight hose and hooked the right caliper back up to the front.....It was a just to see type thing.......it does not work well at all.......to have designed linked brakes you would have to have totally re-designed calipers........with new fluid channels in them.......so you could just actuate one piston with the rear......I was just playing with it....getting ideas........but that dog will not hunt........not without extensive re-design of the calipers.....either new fluid channels or dual banjo bolts....something........

 

Linked brakes are great.......I suppose I will never understand why anyone does not like them.......some have complained they tend to be dangerous in a curve.......but with any brakes easy in the corner......make darn sure you are straight up and pointed straight before you romp on any of them.

 

Okay will now shut up........but did try some of that........in my travels.