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Fuel pump froze on freeway

VentureFar

By VentureFar
in Watering Hole

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cowpuc

cowpuc

Posted
Posted

Yea,, THAT is one fried set of points.. I have the same thought as Flyinfool, I always wondered why they didnt stick a condenser in that system if they were gonna use contacts..

VF, is there a way you could redesign the points using plug in connectors instead of solder joints so it would be easier to replace them on the roadside? Another thing about reading this thread, I had forgotten that the 2nd Gens had the fuel tank above the carbs.. Wish I had one, I would look closely at some kind of a high flow fuel petcock and see if there wasnt a way to use the "gravity feed" mentioned permanently,,, I HATE breaking down too - it ALWAYS seem to happen in the most inopportune times for me...:backinmyday:

THANKS FOR THE PICS!!

Puc

VentureFar

VentureFar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yea,, THAT is one fried set of points.. I have the same thought as Flyinfool, I always wondered why they didnt stick a condenser in that system if they were gonna use contacts..

VF, is there a way you could redesign the points using plug in connectors instead of solder joints so it would be easier to replace them on the roadside? Another thing about reading this thread, I had forgotten that the 2nd Gens had the fuel tank above the carbs.. Wish I had one, I would look closely at some kind of a high flow fuel petcock and see if there wasnt a way to use the "gravity feed" mentioned permanently,,, I HATE breaking down too - it ALWAYS seem to happen in the most inopportune times for me...:backinmyday:

THANKS FOR THE PICS!!

Puc

 

Theoretically speaking, if one was going to carry a spare set of points, that special someone could solder a pigtail wire onto the spare set and then simply do a twist and tape on the side of the road, thereby eliminating any necessity for roadside "soldering".

I am still not convinced that 100% of the problem is the points. Aren't there moving parts inside the body? Can't they go bad too?

 

VentureFar...

Flyinfool

Flyinfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can you measure the coil resistance and compare that to a known good coil? This will tell if the coil is damaged causing an excessive current draw.

 

Also check both wires to see if the coil may be partially shorted to ground.

Edited by Flyinfool
VentureFar

VentureFar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Can you measure the coil resistance and compare that to a known good coil? This will tell if the coil is damaged causing an excessive current draw.

 

Also check both wires to see if the coil may be partially shorted to ground.

 

You is speakin' the greek. Please translate with points of reference etc. Thanks

 

VentureFar...

Flyinfool

Flyinfool

Posted
Posted

I'm speakin geek?????

 

using a multi-meter set to the the lowest ohms range, connect to the 2 wires that go to the coil of the pump. One of these will be one of the wires that come out of the pump. The other will be connected to one of the points inside the pump. The other point will be connected to the other wire that comes out of the pump.

You will get a reading, compare that reading to a known good pump, it should be similar.

If your coil is much different than a known good one then you may have a bad pump motor.

 

Next set the meter to the highest ohms range.

Connect from one of the wires that go to the pumps coil, and the other lead to any metal on the outside of the pump. the meters display should show the same thing as it does with the leads connected to nothing. This will tell you if the coil is grounding out internally. This would also be a bad pump motor.

VentureFar

VentureFar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm speakin geek?????

 

using a multi-meter set to the the lowest ohms range, connect to the 2 wires that go to the coil of the pump. One of these will be one of the wires that come out of the pump. The other will be connected to one of the points inside the pump. The other point will be connected to the other wire that comes out of the pump.

You will get a reading, compare that reading to a known good pump, it should be similar.

If your coil is much different than a known good one then you may have a bad pump motor.

 

Next set the meter to the highest ohms range.

Connect from one of the wires that go to the pumps coil, and the other lead to any metal on the outside of the pump. the meters display should show the same thing as it does with the leads connected to nothing. This will tell you if the coil is grounding out internally. This would also be a bad pump motor.

 

almost there: The other will be connected to one of the points inside the pump

How do I get INSIDE the pump? looks to be sealed. :confused24:

 

Thanks

 

VentureFar...

Flyinfool

Flyinfool

Posted
Posted

The contacts that you are replacing.

One of the contacts connects to one of the wires coming out of the pump and the other side of the contact connects to the coil that you want to measure. The other wire that comes out of the pump is the other side of the coil.

shuttlebug

shuttlebug

Posted
Posted

Would it help to dress the point contacts every once in a while as a maintenance routine? They would wear evenly and hopefully last longer. By the picture they look like old time ignition points.:confused24: How easy is it to get to? Hmmm... I might go and find out- uncleanliness may be lurking. Thanks for the heads up VentureFar!

VentureFar

VentureFar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Would it help to dress the point contacts every once in a while as a maintenance routine? They would wear evenly and hopefully last longer. By the picture they look like old time ignition points.:confused24: How easy is it to get to? Hmmm... I might go and find out- uncleanliness may be lurking. Thanks for the heads up VentureFar!

 

 

BINGO!!!!

I just phoned North Hollywood Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki and all kinds of other brands dealership that I have always trusted and purchased two bikes from. I spoke with the ServiceWriter. He said that as far as he is concerned the Points on the fuel pump are a regular maintenance item at 10,000 to 15,000 miles. check and clean and replace the points with the after market set as needed. ( obviously if the bike is in the shop they will recommend a pump replacement as they don't just do the points there) NO issues with the internal coils or over voltage of any other part of the system. JUST A WEAK DESIGN. He said that on advrider.com you can look up KTM 950 solid state fuel pump and on there somewhere there is info on a replacement POINTs set that is solid state. He also said that you can replace it with a vacuum pump if you are really paranoid. Since it is just one screw to pop the cap on the pump, I will check them every other oil change and replace with the aftermarket set as needed.

 

I feel better now. How about you?

 

VentureFar...

RedRider

RedRider

Posted
Posted (edited)

Venturefar,

 

With your ordeal and writeup showing how the fuel pump points can be accessed while the FP is mounted, I checked mine out.

 

The points look brand new. Still the cross hatching on them (assume it was made like that since they are so uniform). 112,000 miles on this original pump.

 

I feel better even though I have recently picked up an emergency spare. May need to check that one too.

 

http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Misc/i-T8mbtZk/0/M/Fuel%20Pump%20Points-M.jpg

 

RR

Edited by RedRider
VentureFar

VentureFar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Amazing difference between mine at 15000 and yours over 100,000 and still brand new.

Service writer at north Hollywood Honda -yamaha said it is a maintenance item and check every 15k. Go figure??? Mine vrs yours.

Interesting.

VentureFar...

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