bongobobny Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 The fix was for the production year 1985, NOT 1984!! If you have an '83 or '84 it was not fixed at the factory. Some bikes were fixed under warranty after the factory change and are usually identified by a marking on the frame done by the dealer...
Venturous Randy Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 The fix was for the production year 1985, NOT 1984!! If you have an '83 or '84 it was not fixed at the factory. Some bikes were fixed under warranty after the factory change and are usually identified by a marking on the frame done by the dealer... OK, my bad this time. I got this thread crossed with http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83981 and was thinking we were talking about the 85 trans that was asked about putting in the 83 engine. Between the windshield threads jumping to trans threads and other threads, it gets confusing when you're getting old and have a short attention span, like I do. Thanks Bob for trying to keep me straight. RandyA
mcgyverit Posted February 18, 2014 Author Posted February 18, 2014 today was the first chance in a while to mess with the bike. pulled all the sp out and oiled the cylinders. cranked it for about 60 seconds a couple of times off the car battery. check for spark at all 4 wires and got a decent spark. definitely need a new set of plugs at some point. couldn't get my compression tester hose on the heads to check compression, but felt air going in and out at each cylinder. put all the plugs in after cleaning them up and cranked it a few more times. put a few drops of fuel down the carbs and cranked but didn't start, not a big deal yet anyway, was just trying something easy first.. decided to put a little more fuel in there and see what would happen. cranked it and a half a second later it was running for about 2/3 seconds! one thing I did notice is that I don't get brake light when applying the front brake, but I do with the foot brake. now there is no brake fluid in the system, not sure if that matters or not, but will have to investigate that later. got that ugly windscreen off , that is really bad, I am not sure I can bring it back to life, but will give it a try, not out much other than elbow grease. got the information back from the DMV and getting ready to order the new title here in a couple of days.
bongobobny Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 Way to go!!! Sounds like you need to update your compression tester. I have one from harbor freight that has several screw in adapters for various thread sizes, and a hose that leads to the air pressure gauge. Can't remember exactly how much it cost but it wasn't excessively expensive. Getting an accurate compression reading is essential to determining what kind of work may be needed i.e. valve adjustment, etc. As long as all 4 cylinders are within around 10 - 15 psi of each other that should be good enough to run OK. I think accepted is within 10 psi but a little more of a variance is no real big deal. Getting the carbs rebuilt properly and correctly sync'ed is the next big thing. There is an excellent video available on ebay about rebuilding VMax carbs but the Venture is the same, just a little different on the jetting. As far as spark plugs go, NGK is an excellent choice, and should only run 2 - 3 bucks per plug. The Irridiums will last a little longer but to just plain get it running just get the regular ones...
mcgyverit Posted February 19, 2014 Author Posted February 19, 2014 carbs need a going through for sure before any kind of progress in the running department goes. but it was nice to hear it purr even for a few seconds. work is going to halt for a little while, business trip overseas for the next 2 weeks but I am leaving on a good note for sure
Yammer Dan Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Sea-Foam soak while you are gone those carbs might surprise you.
mcgyverit Posted February 19, 2014 Author Posted February 19, 2014 yammer dan that was my thought as well.
mcgyverit Posted February 20, 2014 Author Posted February 20, 2014 working on draining the carbs. BIG thank you to the website for instructions and the manual on how this gets done!
dna9656 Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 I just went through all this on my 83, it sat OUTSIDE in the elements for 2 years right after a long road trip. Following the guidance here I cleaned the carbs using wal mart's carb cleaner shot though the drain hose(s) after opening the drains. I did this twice maybe 3X. New plugs, put good gas in her with some Seafoam and hit the starter and she started. a couple of weeks ago I started her and let her run until the temp gauge read in the normal range. I twisted the throttle with good response. I'm going to check the diaphragms and if I find one bad I will replace all. if she doesn't perform well on the road I will THEN re-build the carbs and hope to know the status of the tranny's 2nd gear issues.
mcgyverit Posted March 6, 2014 Author Posted March 6, 2014 got back from my business trip to China to find my previously lost title in the mail. so now trip to the DMV and get that switch to my name.
bongobobny Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 Outstanding!!! Now get that puppy running right and put some frequent flyer miles on it!!!
mcgyverit Posted March 19, 2014 Author Posted March 19, 2014 After soaking the carbs in sea foam for 2 weeks while in china, then spraying 1/2 a can of Berryman carb cleaner into each carb I cranked it and it finally started! Still have to have the choke on but it is running! I let it get warm and started smelling antifreeze and notice it coming out of the cap. Not sure what that is all about, but will save that for another day
frankd Posted March 20, 2014 Posted March 20, 2014 A couple of years ago on my 83, I had the same problem with the radiator cap leaking. The rubber seal had deteriorated after only 30 years. I replaced it with a cap I purchased at O'Reily's, but I had to grind one of the ears off the new cap so that it could rotate because otherwise the ear hit the frame. Also, because it's a Mk I (83-85), the radiator fan should come on just as the temperature gauge gets to the top end of the green band. The next time you get it warmed up, you may want to verify that the fan comes on. If it doesn't check the terminal that connects the wire to the temperature switch (blue with a green stripe and it's underneath right fairing lower) and make sure that it's clean and tight. If it's loose you can tighten it by squeezing it with a pair of needle nose pliers carefully. If you ground this wire, the fan should come on. Here's some info about radiator cap replacements Radiator Cap for Venture Royale autozone cst7513 napa bk7032443 stant 10227
Yammer Dan Posted March 20, 2014 Posted March 20, 2014 A couple of years ago on my 83, I had the same problem with the radiator cap leaking. The rubber seal had deteriorated after only 30 years. I replaced it with a cap I purchased at O'Reily's, but I had to grind one of the ears off the new cap so that it could rotate because otherwise the ear hit the frame. Also, because it's a Mk I (83-85), the radiator fan should come on just as the temperature gauge gets to the top end of the green band. The next time you get it warmed up, you may want to verify that the fan comes on. If it doesn't check the terminal that connects the wire to the temperature switch (blue with a green stripe and it's underneath right fairing lower) and make sure that it's clean and tight. If it's loose you can tighten it by squeezing it with a pair of needle nose pliers carefully. If you ground this wire, the fan should come on. Here's some info about radiator cap replacements Radiator Cap for Venture Royale autozone cst7513 napa bk7032443 stant 10227 :sign yeah that: Good one Frank.
mcgyverit Posted March 21, 2014 Author Posted March 21, 2014 thanks for the info. as it turns out the cap was just loose. this afternoon I started it again after tightening the cap and ran it enough to check to see if the fan came on and when exactly and you are right, just about at the end of the green scale it came on. so that is good news. I put it in gear while it was running and went up to 2nd gear but the speedo never moved so that may be a mild issue to resolve at some point. next is getting educated on carbs and get it to idle. after that I need to bleed the clutch m/c and get some fresh fluid in it and then tackle the brakes. reading all the other post sounds a little daunting, but has to be done. probably rebuild right off the bat just because it is totally dry. anyone do away with the fairing mirrors and replace them with aftermarkets that mount on the handle bars?
dna9656 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) On my '83 I got home and went on the net to find this forum and the Venturers forum; BOTH indispensable! I followed instructions for cleaning up the insides of the carbs, put in fresh gas and she started! She's sat outside for the last 2 years in NW Washington weather. Seafoam gas treatment is the sh__!. I used Wal-Mart's carb cleaner too. I have just finished Over hauling the brake calipers, it's easy, it's just way expensive for the seals. On youtube all the videos I saw instruct you to slit the calipers. In the Yamaha manual it says NOT to split the caliper. So after you get the caliper off if you have trouble getting the cups out of the caliper (most use compressed air on the fluid hose inlet) you can fit a grease gun to the cracked open bleeder fitting and pump it full of grease till the cup comes out. after cleaning up the first cup and hole you re-install the cup and then get a "C" clamp and a thin piece of metal. use the metal across the cup and tighten the "C" clamp on to the caliper so the cup is held in the hole. Use the compressed air or grease gun technique to get the other cup out. Clean it all up. I used tooth picks to get the crust out and then OOOO steel wool to finish cleaning up the bores and cups. Install you r rubber rings, then your cups and you're back in business! The Prev. Owner (PO) included a generic set of friction disks for the clutch. After I got the correct engine side cover gasket (can read all about that under my screen name too) I installed my first clutch on a M/C. I replaced the desiccant in the CLASS system from desiccant found in merchandise from department stores. I have fiddled with the CLASS system, the plugs in the wire harness, I replaced the spark plugs and am about to replace the spark plug wires with NAPA bulk ignition wire @.10 a foot. I spend a lot of time with soft brushes and "Super Clean" cleaning up the bike. I removed the rear tire and lubed the drive shaft and rear wheel bearings. I will get to the universal joint that serves the drive shaft this weekend. I hope I don't have to drop the back wheel to do that. You'll find that Yamaha's Service manual will always tell you what to do but seldom HOW to do it. That's when the forums are worth supporting. There's LOTS of brains here so take advantage and share yours too! Edited February 15, 2015 by dna9656 More info
dna9656 Posted March 21, 2014 Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) here are a couple pics the day I picked it up PO had a BOS from the PPO but that was it. as far as the title goes, not really a big deal, there is a form to fill out and you have to get it notarized and then they will send you a new title with the current owner of record, then pay all the taxes and fees and 2=3 weeks later you have a title in your name. although I am not sure what I put down for the purchase price since I traded a rifle for it..... worry about that when the time comes Did you get a trunk? Is the rack for affixing the trunk to the bike there? I might have a trunk for you. Le tme know. Edited March 21, 2014 by dna9656 spelling
mcgyverit Posted March 21, 2014 Author Posted March 21, 2014 Yes I did get the trunk but thanks for the offer.
mcgyverit Posted April 20, 2014 Author Posted April 20, 2014 well, the bike is running/starting better after many sessions with Seafoam. still wont idle, but now at least it seems to respond to the throttle more and more. but I started getting some backfiring through the carb which I think means it is running a little lean. did another session with the Seafoam spray and noticed that there was a leak coming from the left/rear carb as I was spraying it in the small tubes. I took off the air filter housing and noticed that that tube had the clamp in the upper position while the other 3 were in the lower position. I don't think it was able to clamp on the carb very well. while I was there I reached in with my finger and moved the black diaphragm piece down inside the carb back and forth in each one. only the left/front would not move. finally got it to break free and moved it back and forth several times, now it seems to be moving freely. next step is to put it all back together and fire it up and see if it runs/idles any better.
dna9656 Posted April 20, 2014 Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) I wasn't having back fire issues but I will tell you about my slider adventure. I was running the engine with the air cleaner assembly removed and was watching the black cylinders move in unison with the movement of the throttle; ok NORMAL except for one; the left rear I believe; anyway I stopped the engine and removed the "cap" under which the diaphragm/cylinder assembly that moves that black cylinder is located. I carefully removed the rubber diaphragm/cylinder assembly (it's stuck to the carb housing), removed the diaphragm from the cylinder and held it to the light and gently stretched it looking for holes and tears. Then I inspected the black cylinder. I found a groove parallel to the ends (the groove went AROUND the cylinder NOT length-wise) so I got some 1200 grit wet of dry paper and SLOWLY sanded the (mostly) groove out. I again gently re-joined the diaphragm and the cylinder and in turn re-installed the assembly. She seems to be running ok...If the slider (cylinder) is fubar they are available....so if it works great, if not I'll get another. So maybe you got a groove in your slider.... Edited April 20, 2014 by dna9656
mcgyverit Posted August 23, 2014 Author Posted August 23, 2014 Never could get it to run / idle. only way it would run was with the choke on and maintain about 2k rpm. so I have resolved to pulling the carbs and giving them a good cleaning. thanks to the many posts on here for information related to removing them from the bike. the throttle cables were a lot of fun I am sure putting them back on should be interesting. next step is breaking them down and get them in the ultrasonic cleaner with a solution of Pine sol and see how they fair.
mcgyverit Posted September 1, 2014 Author Posted September 1, 2014 While the carbs are being worked on it was suggested to me to check out the fuel tank as well. no sense in cleaning the carbs only to put dirt/rust back in there. so I began the process of tearing down the rear frame. that sounds way more difficult than it actually was, and thanks to the poster on here somewhere that suggested to another member to go ahead and try it. some various bolts and a couple electrical connections is all it takes and in less than an hour the rear frame was off: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/IMG_1034_zps280ed588.jpg rear fender and frame: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/IMG_1037_zpsdd142c8b.jpg the black plastic front shield sort of just fell out, is there supposed to be screws holding it in place? drained most of the gas out of the tank before removing the fuel sending unit. that part was ugly! rusted and rust particles on the float. it wasn't working and now I know why. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/IMG_1039_zps25cc6d73.jpg got the tank off and looked inside and what a mess this is, but the tank is structurally sound so it is time for a cleaning and sealing. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/IMG_1043_zps10f2d4e5.jpg while it is down to this point, I am going to take some time and do a little cleaning and deal with the rear brake master cylinder since it is a lot easier to get to now. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/IMG_1042_zpsac09145c.jpg
Venturous Randy Posted September 1, 2014 Posted September 1, 2014 Hey, looking good. Thanks for the update. Yes, it is not nearly as difficult to remove the rear frame as it appears to be. I remember doing that when I flipped my bike upside down and reinforced the frame. RandyA
mcgyverit Posted September 2, 2014 Author Posted September 2, 2014 any hints on where to find a fuel sending unit? looked at the popular online parts places with no luck, saw a used one on Ebay, but that is really about it.
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