dna9656 Posted February 15, 2015 #76 Posted February 15, 2015 Contact me for a source for a windshield. I know where you can get a seat too.
mcgyverit Posted February 18, 2015 Author #78 Posted February 18, 2015 PH, thanks again, that helps a lot
mcgyverit Posted February 21, 2015 Author #79 Posted February 21, 2015 got the rear caliper apart today as well as the pistons and they looked pretty good. although lots of brake fluid that congealed inside each half. cleaned it all up and plan on ordering a seal kit. anyone have experience with the ones on ebay and their quality?
Prairiehammer Posted February 21, 2015 #80 Posted February 21, 2015 got the rear caliper apart today as well as the pistons and they looked pretty good. although lots of brake fluid that congealed inside each half. cleaned it all up and plan on ordering a seal kit. anyone have experience with the ones on ebay and their quality? There is not many choices for the 1983-1985 caliper seal kit on eBay. Yamaha part number 26H-WO047-50-00 has been superseded by Yamaha part number 31A-W0047-00-00. Doing a search for that part number on eBay returns just two discrete hits. Two are for OEM seals from Boats net and Partzilla (same seller) and two identical from Motosupplyco. If it were me, I would stick with Yamaha branded seals. Cheapest, too. 31A-W0047-00-00 | eBay
mcgyverit Posted March 10, 2015 Author #81 Posted March 10, 2015 Got the seal kit and put them in yesterday. first set went in really easy, second set not so much. ended up having to get a dremel and wire wheel to clean out the grooves of all the residue so that the seal would fit/stretch properly. all back together, mounted and tomorrow work on bleeding the air out of the rear. once that is done, start on the fronts along with putting the rear frame/gas tank etc. all back together.
mcgyverit Posted March 10, 2015 Author #82 Posted March 10, 2015 rear brakes are back on and bled. feels pretty good for now. next step is putting the rear frame back together, then start on the front brakes. thinking about that I think I am going to pull the whole fairing off and go over a lot underneath there just to make sure it is clean and makes sense. plus that will make it easier to run the new brake lines.
mcgyverit Posted March 12, 2015 Author #83 Posted March 12, 2015 (edited) it was a short start putting the rear frame back together as I could not figure out how the plastic inner rear fender goes back together. when I was taking it all apart it fell out of the rear and didn't see how it was in there. looking in the manual I cannot find a clear pic of how it goes together. anyone have pics or a description of how it goes? Edited March 12, 2015 by mcgyverit
Brenner Posted March 12, 2015 #84 Posted March 12, 2015 The rear fender mounts on two tabs located on the gas tank rear side. The top just rests on the frame cross member once assembled. Just take the time to look closely and you will note the tabs on the tank and the fender slots on the backside of the fender. Make sure when assembling the rear frame ( I bolt the top front 2 bolt first and then pivot it closed) that you let the fender top lip sit above the frame cross member. I hope I explained this in a manner that is easy to understand and did not over complicate it.
mcgyverit Posted March 13, 2015 Author #85 Posted March 13, 2015 Brender, good enough. Found the tabs and you are right, pretty self explanatory. Should have looked closer.
mcgyverit Posted March 16, 2015 Author #86 Posted March 16, 2015 pretty much have the rear frame and support section back together. began taking off the front fairing to get to the wiring issue concerning the brakes and also to begin working on the rest of the delinking of the brake system. https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11058612_857225077654289_1384057810424318961_n.jpg?oh=b656a5448b8658f3ed7e281e94e5db3c&oe=55715A9A https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11061774_857225140987616_3013983096489349950_n.jpg?oh=44e1b9fb7acac93a651e4e6438fcbea3&oe=55BC1298 https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10989031_857225180987612_4463187487796772705_n.jpg?oh=9d115b6b6a7e361cbd2622b9535d8bf0&oe=557B6776
flyday58 Posted March 17, 2015 #87 Posted March 17, 2015 pretty much have the rear frame and support section back together. began taking off the front fairing to get to the wiring issue concerning the brakes and also to begin working on the rest of the delinking of the brake system. https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11058612_857225077654289_1384057810424318961_n.jpg?oh=b656a5448b8658f3ed7e281e94e5db3c&oe=55715A9A https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11061774_857225140987616_3013983096489349950_n.jpg?oh=44e1b9fb7acac93a651e4e6438fcbea3&oe=55BC1298 https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10989031_857225180987612_4463187487796772705_n.jpg?oh=9d115b6b6a7e361cbd2622b9535d8bf0&oe=557B6776 Looks WAY too familiar, had mine to this stage many times running down gremlins during the rebuild. Keep up the good work. Richard
mcgyverit Posted March 17, 2015 Author #88 Posted March 17, 2015 thanks flyday, making progress slow as it may be, but hoping to take it for a ride around the block here in the next couple of weeks if I get the brakes working the way they should.
mcgyverit Posted March 18, 2015 Author #89 Posted March 18, 2015 got the front calipers off and they looked pretty much like the rear with the fluid in a gelatinous state, so spending a few hours cleaning parts before assembly. now I just need to find a brake line for the left side caliper to reach from the caliper to the m/c. on a separate note, I fired it up yesterday with the fairing removed and was checking to make sure turn signals and brake lights worked on the rear after installing, no turn signals but brakes worked. with the circuit broken on the front signals since the fairing was removed, does that make the rears not work as well?
bongobobny Posted March 18, 2015 #90 Posted March 18, 2015 with the circuit broken on the front signals since the fairing was removed, does that make the rears not work as well?Yes! They will not flash without the load from the front turn signals...
mcgyverit Posted March 19, 2015 Author #91 Posted March 19, 2015 Thanks BongoBob, that is what I figured/hoping. ultra-sonic cleaned the calipers, order a Vmax splitter and a brake line yesterday and should have them back together soon. just looking forward to taking it down the street here soon.
mcgyverit Posted March 21, 2015 Author #92 Posted March 21, 2015 Today got the frt calipers back together. Put the m/c back together and mounted it. Removed the left side hose and getting ready for the new hose
mcgyverit Posted April 4, 2015 Author #93 Posted April 4, 2015 I got the replacement hoses in and installed them . but now I am for a total loss of what is going on. I have the fairing off, brake light wires and fluid level wires disconnected behind the headlight assembly. first set up was hooking both lh and rh frt calipers on a double banjo bolt at the m/c. filled the m/c and began the process of trying to bleed the brakes. no luck whatsoever. loosened all 4 fittings on the front and was just going to let it gravity feed down to the calipers. after many hours there was seepage. tightened everything back up. tried again with no luck. loosened the main hoses from the calipers and let gravity do the rest. both hoses drained fluid steadily. tighten back up and proceeded to try bleeding them again and no luck. and when I mean no luck, I mean there is no build up of pressure at all. nothing comes out of the fittings. so today I removed the rh hose and just hooked up the lh hose with a single banjo bolt. nothing would come out. so I had a helper operate the lever while instead of just loosening the fitting I would remove it. every time it was squeezed fluid would come along with bubbles, then I would install the fitting tight and then release the lever. this led me to believe that the fitting was clogged. installed another fitting and began to get fluid out. I did this numerous time to both the caliper and the anti-dive fitting. but I never get any pressure on the lever I have no fluid leaks anywhere in the system. only thing I can think of is that the seal are on backwards on the m/c and not sealing properly when the system is closed. any thoughts?
mcgyverit Posted April 7, 2015 Author #94 Posted April 7, 2015 I went ahead and pulled the m/c back off yesterday hoping that I would discover why I cannot build up pressure, but I don't see anything jumping out at me. here is a pic of the piston inside the m/c. looks right to me as far as the seal position goes. https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xat1/t31.0-8/11140136_869083016468495_747737433209953983_o.jpg
Prairiehammer Posted April 7, 2015 #95 Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) I went ahead and pulled the m/c back off yesterday hoping that I would discover why I cannot build up pressure, but I don't see anything jumping out at me. here is a pic of the piston inside the m/c. looks right to me as far as the seal position goes. https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xat1/t31.0-8/11140136_869083016468495_747737433209953983_o.jpg Looks correct, provided you installed the larger inner diameter seal at the end of the spindle opposite the spring. When you actuate the brake lever, is there a spurt of fluid into the reservoir (a mini geyser)? If not, the little orifice in the bottom of the reservoir may require cleaning. What is the condition of the master cylinder bore? Clean and smooth? No corrosion? The larger ID seal should be at "C" and the smaller ID seal should be at "B". Edited April 7, 2015 by Prairiehammer
mcgyverit Posted April 7, 2015 Author #96 Posted April 7, 2015 I cleaned the m/c out ultrasonically and ran a swab through the bore several times, at the caliper, when I remove the bleeder and squeeze the brake lever, a lot of brake fluid comes out. but when I install the bleeder after making sure it is clean and clear of obstruction, I don't get much of anything out of the caliper when the lever is squeezed. so the fluid seems to be getting down to the caliper ok, but just no pressure build up.
cowpuc Posted April 7, 2015 #97 Posted April 7, 2015 Hey Steve I have a gut feeling that your problem is air in the system, it doesnt take much of an air bubble to displace the small amount of hydraulic movement that the master provides. This may sound corny but here is something that I have done several times in diagnosing situations like your working with. Break the system down into components and test them one at a time (make sure you have ample rag coverage on your scoot - brake fluid is nasty). Start with your Master, disconnect the master at the bango - put a plug in the master bango hole, bleed off the master at the plug and see if it will pump up in a stand alone situation.. I have yet to have a rubber brake line get old and rubbery enough to displace the hydraulic pressure BUT - I have heard of it and know that some folks end up going with braided lines because of it.. I cant think of how a caliper (other than an air bubble) could cause what your talking about - if a caliper has no air in it and it is loosing pressure it is also loosing fluid. That said - I have rebuilt a number of calipers and always refill them manually while they are off the bike and carefully reconnect them only after I am sure they are full of fluid - that way I am not depending on a master cyl to do all the work of refill and fighting air bubbles. On the master, sometimes it helps to tip the bars up so any air bubble is given a chance to float upward, tapping on the side of the master can also help as can tapping on line joints and connections. Those tiny little bubbles that you sometimes cant even hardly see (the kind that get caught up in the fluid itself - swear on a stack of left over 1st Gen parts - I have seen this happen) can be very difficult and time consuming to remove - its take slow easy movement back and forth on the lever at a pace that allows you to move the fluid around with the lever with the master cover off (if its squirting from the bleed back hole your doing it to hard) while you watch in the resevoir for tiny bubbles.. A half hour of this is not uncommon..
Flyinfool Posted April 7, 2015 #98 Posted April 7, 2015 I found that the HF Vacuum bleeder made getting the air out a whole lot easier. (And less messy) Start with just the tiniest of lever movements. watch the fluid inside of the reservoir. you will see very tiny air bubbles work their way out of the MC piston via the bleed back hole. There are 2 holes from the reservoir to the piston, one is big enough that you can see the piston moving below it, the other one is so tiny that it is almost invisible to the naked eye. That very tiny one is the bleed back hole that you need to get air out of and be sure it is not blocked. Until you get ALL of the air out of the MC nothing else will bleed normally. It helps to turn the handlebars in various directions to help get the air out of the MC.
mcgyverit Posted April 8, 2015 Author #99 Posted April 8, 2015 guys, thanks for the information, maybe I am just being a little impatient. I will start again tonight and see what happens.
mcgyverit Posted April 8, 2015 Author #100 Posted April 8, 2015 was wondering if someone had a pic of the back of their 1st gen to show how the accessory rack below is mounted to the frame etc. https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11061314_867775389932591_6933971462795711323_n.jpg?oh=aa039665450658a72ad4394ef4f16002&oe=559F8483&__gda__=1437216437_53918c7c13d18dadf73eb1b2485d3525 the trianglular piece in the lower left corner of the pic should line up with the hole in the frame part directly under the saddle bag mount, but does it go on the outside of the frame or between the frame and the rear fender?
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