cam removal

[marcsmith]

After thinking about and deciding to err on the side of caution I am going to remove my front intake cam and replace the broken bucket. I have the service manual so should not be to difficult. The cam also has some burs on the side I am going to clean up. What is the difference between the white lifters and the green ones in the parts diagram? If anyone has done this would not mind some tips. Thanks

[DarrinGT]

After thinking about and deciding to err on the side of caution I am going to remove my front intake cam and replace the broken bucket. I have the service manual so should not be to difficult. The cam also has some burs on the side I am going to clean up. What is the difference between the white lifters and the green ones in the parts diagram? If anyone has done this would not mind some tips. Thanks

 

 

Here is what member Dingy posted to help me out with pulling my cam to replace the bucket:

 

Have never done this on a motor in the bike, but have numerous passes at doing it on bench.

 

To change the cams, you need to remove the cam adjuster that are on the rear of each head. 2 ten mm hex head cap screws in each adjuster. You will probably need to replace gasket under each tensioner. This will allow cam chains to have maximum slack.

 

Remove cap screws from each of the 4 cam shaft caps. These caps are numbered 1~4 on each head, cast into cap, but there is no notation on them for front or rear head. They MUST be placed back in same head as they are removed from. They are snug fit over 2 dowel pins into the head, takes a little jiggling to get them off. You can put a screw into the valve cover screw hole to use to help remove them.

 

The cams are somewhat difficult to get clear of the chains, not much slack in them. Gently work them out. This is in service manual under 'Engine Disassembly' section. I think if cam gears are unscrewed from cam, it would be a little easier to get cams out.

 

Putting cams back in is basically reverse of above, but now cam timing marks must be set correctly. The front and rear heads are different on setting. This is detailed in service manual in 'Engine Assembly and Adjustment' section. When cam chain tensioners are replaced, the large nut on tensioner is removed in order to allow the ratchet mechanism to be retracted.

 

You will need to check valve clearances after swapping cams. Shims should be close to stock cams.

 

Picture attached of rear of motor on bench, cam tensioner is not in head in picture. Hole for it is to right of left exhaust where it connects to head.

 

Front head tensioner hole is shown in top view of motor, front of motor to left. Tensioner hole is between the 2 intake ports on front head, this will be under carbs.

 

Last picture is looking into rear head with valve cover off.

 

All pictures are of 1st gen 1300 motors, but it should be very similar to yours.

 

Gary

[marcsmith]

Thanks for the help and the offer of the bucket. I ended up buying one off e-bay brand new. Still not sure on the different color options in the parts diagram. I am assuming mine is white because the inside of my heads have a white mark. I only removed the front intake cam did not move the rear so should be able to put it back the way it was. I now know to not turn the motor with the shims out of the bucket. Thanks for the help and the offer of calling if I need more. Thanks

[djh3]

I have not done one of these, but have too much experience with the FJ1200 motors which are simular. I allways took safety wire and ran it thru the cam chain close to where it came thru the head. Went thru front and rear sides of chain. This allowed me to tie it off around a cam tower and made for easy retieval when I dropped it. On the cam caps, a litle brake clean on the ends of them and mark them with dot for each tower and to the front. From the article posted to help, it sounds like these heads are made like the 2.2 dodge heads. The install caps and then line bore them I guess, so its not a good idea to swap around.