baylensman Posted January 31, 2014 #1 Posted January 31, 2014 So i'm off today. Decide to tackle new windshield. 8:05 reread the "split the fairing" thread. walk out to bike look it over. go back in get a 3mm flex hex wrench. pop two screws in fairing. pry yes pry the chrome strip up and back with a plastic fid. six more 3 mm screws, slide the old screen up and back. go back inside open F4 box unwrap new screen, take it outside slide into place 5 screws in, go back inside get Dremel open up last hole the width of the screw. Stop let the cable guy in to swap out modem. back out side last screw in . slide the chrome down the screen tap tap its in last two screws. take tools in put them away pick up trash make coffee. log in here elapsed time 55 minutes..
bongobobny Posted January 31, 2014 #3 Posted January 31, 2014 Sounds about right! How many times did you have to fetch dropped screw from inside fairing??
Ion Posted January 31, 2014 #4 Posted January 31, 2014 Your timing to post this couldn't have been better :cool10: I am "patiently" waiting for the arrival of a new windshield too. For whatever reason I have heard so many issues about opening the fairing that I thought it was going to take me for ever!!! I want to add power for the iphone and additional aux connection at the same time, and now, after hearing how well it worked out for you I am full of optimism and confidence to tackle it within the next couple weekends!!!! Thank you!!!
IronMike Posted January 31, 2014 #5 Posted January 31, 2014 Its really easy once you see how the tabs come out on the chrome strip. It can easily be broken, I call that a Factory booby trap! There are others on the bike. Love it when people do How to's though. Thats great especially Video ones. Or pictured. Although the HERE did not show as a link for me.
djh3 Posted January 31, 2014 #6 Posted January 31, 2014 ION: where are you looking to add additional power tap? The additional audio stuff is a snap being radioshack has the "y" connector and the cables reasonanle. I would heat shrink them to keep elements out. First time I split the fairing I think it took me an hour or so. I was sooo worried about breaking something or messing it up. Now I can have it split in about 15 min. Make sure you get the 3mm allen in the scres square or it will round them out. If you have the passing lights unless they have a spacer between the triple tree and teh bracket you will have to remove the bolts holding it on. I take a heavy towl and drape on the fender to keep it from scratching the fender. Splitting the fairing
Cougar Posted February 1, 2014 #8 Posted February 1, 2014 I also had to Dremal the end holes as well. I told them about that a few months ago. guess they have not done the fix it. even sent them pics of how I had to do it as well. you will love that screen. :-)
NSA Joe Posted February 1, 2014 #9 Posted February 1, 2014 Hi just curious what size you put on and what you had on it? We have the show chrome model and I was wanting to go a little taller hope to help Debbie with some buffeting issues.Not sure how f4 sizes compare to show chrome they say the 17.5 is taller the stock not sure what stock is compared to show chrome. Thanks joe
Ion Posted February 1, 2014 #10 Posted February 1, 2014 ION: where are you looking to add additional power tap? The additional audio stuff is a snap being radioshack has the "y" connector and the cables reasonanle. I would heat shrink them to keep elements out. First time I split the fairing I think it took me an hour or so. I was sooo worried about breaking something or messing it up. Now I can have it split in about 15 min. Make sure you get the 3mm allen in the scres square or it will round them out. If you have the passing lights unless they have a spacer between the triple tree and teh bracket you will have to remove the bolts holding it on. I take a heavy towl and drape on the fender to keep it from scratching the fender. Splitting the fairing I need power for the gps and don't want to plug anything to the power "lighter" connection on the left side of the fairing. I haven't done my homework yet but I probably run straight from the battery with a relay?? Unless anyone has a better suggestion. Goal is to set it up inside the fairing and have just two cables (power and sound) coming out to the handler bar from around where the auto cruise switch is and then zip-tied them to the brake lines to reach the right handle which is where I'll have the unit. Better ideas??
Bert2006 Posted February 1, 2014 #12 Posted February 1, 2014 I need power for the gps and don't want to plug anything to the power "lighter" connection on the left side of the fairing. I haven't done my homework yet but I probably run straight from the battery with a relay?? Unless anyone has a better suggestion. Goal is to set it up inside the fairing and have just two cables (power and sound) coming out to the handler bar from around where the auto cruise switch is and then zip-tied them to the brake lines to reach the right handle which is where I'll have the unit. Better ideas?? Powered my GPS direct at battery. Load is low so no relay required. Attached holder on bars next to radio pod. Wires run from GPS to bar, then under left neck cover and gas tank , through fuse to the battery.
Ion Posted February 1, 2014 #13 Posted February 1, 2014 That is a great idea. How hard would it be to run it from the inside connections at the existing lighter connection?
baylensman Posted February 2, 2014 Author #14 Posted February 2, 2014 Hi just curious what size you put on and what you had on it? We have the show chrome model and I was wanting to go a little taller hope to help Debbie with some buffeting issues.Not sure how f4 sizes compare to show chrome they say the 17.5 is taller the stock not sure what stock is compared to show chrome. Thanks joe went with the biggest one they had in tint with the vent. Rode in a little rain today love it
djh3 Posted February 2, 2014 #15 Posted February 2, 2014 ION I dont think it would be a problem. Maybe just tap right there at the current lighter socket. It's alredy fused so...... I also dont think for the draw that you get on the phone/GPS/Aux socket you would need a relay. I would run it as a fused leg though. Then it becomes weather you want it hot with key or all the time. I'm running a HID headlight and would probably just tap off the relay there, because it would be easy. But depending on how and where you are drawing the power it all runs thru the ignition switch.
Ion Posted February 2, 2014 #17 Posted February 2, 2014 ION I dont think it would be a problem. Maybe just tap right there at the current lighter socket. It's alredy fused so...... I also dont think for the draw that you get on the phone/GPS/Aux socket you would need a relay. I would run it as a fused leg though. Then it becomes weather you want it hot with key or all the time. I'm running a HID headlight and would probably just tap off the relay there, because it would be easy. But depending on how and where you are drawing the power it all runs thru the ignition switch. Thank you very much! Sounds easy enough!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now