I'm looking for a light switch.

[Mariner Fan]

Well I have the factory light bar for my bike but I'm still waffling on what switch to buy. So far I've gotten a switch to put in the fairing but changed my mind so I bought a billet switch to mount on the handlebar. Now I don't think I want that one either.

 

Bummer recommended the Kuryakyn switch that mounts on the master cylinder. I like it but haven't seen one in real life. Does it slide over the master cylinder reservoir or simply sit on top?

 

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_18259_200.jpg

 

Here is another brand. It looks like it either slides over the reservoir or is a replacement. Note the cover is on top. I'm really interested in this one because it looks like I can mount my Hoon XM radio mount on top. Anyone know about this style?

 

http://www.wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/361_Accessory_Switches/20159_Chrome_Brake_Side_LED_Accessory_Switch_Block/?goto=%2Fpgroup_list%2Fgl1800%2F361_goldwing_Accessory_Switches%2Fdes%2F

 

 

 

http://www.wingstuff.com/images//store1/pgroups/20159_image1.gif

[Carbon_One]

It sits on top of either resvoir. Longer screws come with it. I have one of the older versions with toggle levers rather than the rocker type in your picture attachment. I use all thre of them as well. One is for the spot lights, another is for low beam and the 3rd is the lights on my tach and voltmeter.

The low beam switch I normaly turn off after shutting the bike down. Then when restarted flip it back on. I do this to help the battery enjoy a longer life.

Anyhow those units are very nice. You can get right or left side models too depending on which way you want the switches facing and which side you want it on. Mine is on left side with switches facing forward.

Larry

[pegscraper]

I rewired the kill switch to operate the passing lamps. Made that switch actually good for something.

[BEER30]

I have that switch from Wingstuff . Remove reservoir cover , place on a bottom mounting plate which reseals the reservoir . The switch mounts onto plate which hinges and latches on front side and has 2 screws on backside to secure . I really like it ! Comes with fused link power cables and all wiring long enough to return back to battery . I have my LED's wired into it and have 1 switch left empty for future .

3 rocker switch's which illuminate a green light when power is on . Illuminating lights up real well to see in the daylight . I'd buy another one any day .

 

BEER30

[Guest tesnevo]

I have the same one on mine. Only have the passing lamps on it though. Still worth it if you ask me. I looked at all other possible switches/controllers but the issues were waterproof, illumination and possible expansion switches.

Now I just need to figure out what I am going to hook up to the other two switches.

[Condor]

Wish they made something like that for a 1stGen..... Sigh!!

[Rocket]

Wish they made something like that for a 1stGen..... Sigh!!

 

Has anyone tried adapting one for a 1st gen????

[BEER30]

Wish they made something like that for a 1stGen..... Sigh!!

 

Just curious , but could one just redrill the mounting holes base plate to match the the 1st gen's hole pattern and just place it directly on top of the res. plate using long screws ? Then the switch assembly mounts to it's base plate .

 

BEER30

[Condor]

Just curious , but could one just redrill the mounting holes base plate to match the the 1st gen's hole pattern and just place it directly on top of the res. plate using long screws ? Then the switch assembly mounts to it's base plate .

 

BEER30

 

i think it's more than just the holes. The 2gen masters have a more rounded shape, while the 1st's are boxier. Might not look as nice when installed?? Actually I picked up a mint set of 2ndGen masters that I planned on mounting on the '87, but now may put them on the newer2me '91. They fit a 1" bar, but I planned on shimming them with something. Then I can install that switch.....

[Squeeze]

You'd better forget about the Idea of fitting 2Gen Master to 1Gen.

 

First, shimming the 1 Inch Diameter is a very bad Idea and you might end up in dangerous Situation, second, the Piston Size of the 2Gen is much bigger and you will convert your front Brake, if the System is not delinked, to a digital Excitement.

[Condor]

You'd better forget about the Idea of fitting 2Gen Master to 1Gen.

 

First, shimming the 1 Inch Diameter is a very bad Idea and you might end up in dangerous Situation, second, the Piston Size of the 2Gen is much bigger and you will convert your front Brake, if the System is not delinked, to a digital Excitement.

 

Thanks for the heads up Squeeze. I can't see any problem shimming the 1" masters if done properly, and I also have a set of 2ndGen calipers to use. And if it gives me any problems I can always slap the old system back on.

[Squeeze]

Thanks for the heads up Squeeze. I can't see any problem shimming the 1" masters if done properly, and I also have a set of 2ndGen calipers to use. And if it gives me any problems I can always slap the old system back on.

 

I agree to some Point on the Shimming, but keep in Mind, this can get dangerous. I wouldn't go for that.

 

2Gen Calipers might Work, when they physically fit to the Forks and you delink the Brakes. You will need new Brake Lines and depending if you use 3 Piece Lines or only 2 Piece Brake Lines, a T Connector. I used a T from a Vmax.

[Condor]

I agree to some Point on the Shimming, but keep in Mind, this can get dangerous. I wouldn't go for that.

 

2Gen Calipers might Work, when they physically fit to the Forks and you delink the Brakes. You will need new Brake Lines and depending if you use 3 Piece Lines or only 2 Piece Brake Lines, a T Connector. I used a T from a Vmax.

 

OK Squeeze, you're going to have to explain to me why a solid shim, say out of machined aluminum, would be dangerous, and also why I'd need to de-link the brakes. I don't see it.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

In case your looking for something simpler....a bit less gaudy...and cheaper too.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/togglewithboot_9001.jpg

 

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Switches/switches.html

 

 

They have several varieties.

[Squeeze]

OK Squeeze, you're going to have to explain to me why a solid shim, say out of machined aluminum, would be dangerous, and also why I'd need to de-link the brakes. I don't see it.

 

Shimming - Even if you try the make the best Shims in the World on a Lathe, made out of one Piece with a small Gap or made out of two half moon shaped Piece, the Amount of Pressure you can bring on the Shims and the Handlebar with those two 6mm Millimeter Bolts are not enough to put a secure Pressure on the Assembly. It sure will hold standard daily use, but in a dangerous Situation, the M/C can turn downwards when you try to grab into the Lever. Not as safe as i would want to be. I been there because of my Fault, not tightening the Bolts in secure Manner and believe me, this a Experience you won't share.

 

As a Sidenote, i for one, i'm very sensitive to my Controls and Levers. They all have to be in THE right Place and when they not are where they should be, i stop immediately to correct this Issue. I wouldn't ride for more than one Block without proper Setting of the Levers on my Bikes.

 

Piston Size - the 1Gen have 14mm Piston Diameter, that good to feed the front right Caliper in the liked Brake System. If you put a 2Gen M/C on your not delinked Bike, you have much more hydraulic Force on this one Caliper. The 2Gen M/C is 5/8 " and has also another Leverage Ratio. When you mount this M/C to feed your single Caliper, the usage of the front Brake turns into digital Excitement. This goes while pulling the Lever to ... no Brake, almost no Brake, BRAKE !!!!!

 

So either you delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers from the bigger M/C or you find a smaller Piston Diameter M/C, which doesn't exist from Yamaha, up to my Knowledge.

[V7Goose]

Well I have the factory light bar for my bike but I'm still waffling on what switch to buy. So far I've gotten a switch to put in the fairing but changed my mind so I bought a billet switch to mount on the handlebar. Now I don't think I want that one either.

 

Sorry, but I just gotta ask since no one else has... What's wrong with the stock switch that comes with the light bar? If it is mounted correctly it works fine, lasts long time. The only thing I could see against it is that it is a bit inconvienient to use if I wanted to turn the lights off and on a lot with my winter gloves. But I don't.

Goose

[Condor]

Shimming - Even .

 

Squeeze, I think we've done enough to pirate this thread. I'm going to copy you last post to the 1stGen area, and go from there.

Sorry Folks!!! Back to light switches...... :-)

[Squeeze]

Squeeze, I think we've done enough to pirate this thread. I'm going to copy you last post to the 1stGen area, and go from there.

 

Sorry Folks!!! Back to light switches...... :-)

 

I agree. I was thinking the same by myself. But, you know ... i like discussing Tech and Toys ... even if it's in the false Place.

[Mariner Fan]

Sorry, but I just gotta ask since no one else has... What's wrong with the stock switch that comes with the light bar? If it is mounted correctly it works fine, lasts long time. The only thing I could see against it is that it is a bit inconvienient to use if I wanted to turn the lights off and on a lot with my winter gloves. But I don't.

Goose

 

Probably nothing. It just looked cheap to me and I wanted something more robust.

 

In case your looking for something simpler....a bit less gaudy...and cheaper too.

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/togglewithboot_9001.jpg

 

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Switches/switches.html

 

 

They have several varieties.

 

Brian, I took your advice and bought one of these. I went one step further and purchased the complete wiring harness. This stuff is top-notch. If anyone is thinking of installing passing lights and wants to do it the easy way, then it's money well spent.

[Freebird]

I don't know if Yamaha is using the same switch now that they did in '99. The switch in '99 was a rubber covered push button. I do know that there were a lot of failures of that original switch. Maybe they improved it in later years.

[Guest KitCarson]

Go to any boat marine place and purchase a simple weather proof toggle switch.......they work well......and the rubber or I suppose now they are plastic of some kind covers work well for a year or so....then you just screw the cover off and replace it when it gets weather checked.