kevin-vic-b.c. Posted December 15, 2013 Share #1 Posted December 15, 2013 Ok I just changed my dead headlight. I have know idea what the heck that thing was that came out nor did the guy at Lordco auto parts. It was a greenish gold color and I have hated it since I bought the bike last spring. The new headlight is a PIAA Powersport Anti-Vibration bulb GT-X H4 60/55W. Much brighter. They call it Bluish Purple light and = to 135/125 watts, it is much much cleaner and brighter light. The Tech article from Freebird is perfect to follow for cracking the shell. Two things I want to mention about the job. 1.) very important, Freebird mentions in "Splitting the Fairing" about removing the chrome strip at bottom of windshield, lift the strip, the term lift may be some what confusing, someone had mine off in the past and has broken all but one of the tabs off the back. The way I see it they lifted toward themselves but it is more of a slide upward motion that is required. The Chrome strip should be slid parallel with the windshield upward to take it off correctly. 2.) accessing the bulb is tight, I undid the two bolts on the top of the assembly so the top fell forward some to get bulb in and out of the light pot. I do not have big hands and it was tight to keep from touching the bulb to anything going in. If you have a Co-pilot with small hands this is a good place to put them to work. I bought a nice long 6 mm socket type ball headed Allen tool to do the two lower bolts behind the turn signal/passing light bar. that is by far the total best way to do it. I don't think my Fairing had ever been cracked so those bolts were very tight to undo with the 3/8 ratchet. Don't think an regular Allen wrench would have done it. Just sharing what I found, I am not great with wrenching these bikes, I was nervous going in but like I said, the Tech article is great and it went smooth both ways. Snug everything nicely then go back and check them, don't over tighten into that ABS Plastic. I guess the other important thing to do is to test the light BEFORE you put it all back together to make sure it was just the light bulb. havin fun ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 15, 2013 Share #2 Posted December 15, 2013 Kevin, it ha ben a couple years since I went HID on mine. Maybe if you post a pic of the questionable part we might be able to help you sort it out. Is it rubber or metal. I have to agree on the chrome trim strip its more a slide/lift on same direction as windshield. There is an article on here on how to fix broken tabs. To bad you cant make a couple little tabs that come up and attach the strip with say a couple 2mm screws or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrycuda Posted December 15, 2013 Share #3 Posted December 15, 2013 Ok I just changed my dead headlight. I have know idea what the heck that thing was that came out nor did the guy at Lordco auto parts. It was a greenish gold color and I have hated it since I bought the bike last spring. The new headlight is a PIAA Powersport Anti-Vibration bulb GT-X H4 60/55W. Much brighter. They call it Bluish Purple light and = to 135/125 watts, it is much much cleaner and brighter light. The Tech article from Freebird is perfect to follow for cracking the shell. Two things I want to mention about the job. 1.) very important, Freebird mentions in "Splitting the Fairing" about removing the chrome strip at bottom of windshield, lift the strip, the term lift may be some what confusing, someone had mine off in the past and has broken all but one of the tabs off the back. The way I see it they lifted toward themselves but it is more of a slide upward motion that is required. The Chrome strip should be slid parallel with the windshield upward to take it off correctly. 2.) accessing the bulb is tight, I undid the two bolts on the top of the assembly so the top fell forward some to get bulb in and out of the light pot. I do not have big hands and it was tight to keep from touching the bulb to anything going in. If you have a Co-pilot with small hands this is a good place to put them to work. I bought a nice long 6 mm socket type ball headed Allen tool to do the two lower bolts behind the turn signal/passing light bar. that is by far the total best way to do it. I don't think my Fairing had ever been cracked so those bolts were very tight to undo with the 3/8 ratchet. Don't think an regular Allen wrench would have done it. Just sharing what I found, I am not great with wrenching these bikes, I was nervous going in but like I said, the Tech article is great and it went smooth both ways. Snug everything nicely then go back and check them, don't over tighten into that ABS Plastic. I guess the other important thing to do is to test the light BEFORE you put it all back together to make sure it was just the light bulb. havin fun ! +1 on FREEBIRD excellent tech post. Because of it, I was able to split the fairing, and I followed the advice on the chrome trim by sliding/ lift from edges first to prevent tab breakage. I was able to remove the touring lights and bracket and replace the headlight, albeit a stock one. One day I will deal with HID... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csdexter Posted December 16, 2013 Share #4 Posted December 16, 2013 The greenish-gold you're mentioning may have been selective yellow, a few years ago I would have killed to get my hands on such a bulb but now I don't own the bike I needed it for anymore. Oh well, such is life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted December 16, 2013 The greenish-gold you're mentioning may have been selective yellow, a few years ago I would have killed to get my hands on such a bulb but now I don't own the bike I needed it for anymore. Oh well, such is life. no it showed more green in the lens than what you liked to that showed very gold on colour. and you really did not miss anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csdexter Posted December 16, 2013 Share #6 Posted December 16, 2013 Well, I'm happy you got it working (or shining) the way you wanted, then :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 17, 2013 Share #7 Posted December 17, 2013 Man I did not even think the bulb might be yellow. After I read the link that was posted I remembered seeing all those yellowish headlights over in Europe when I would make trips there in the USAF. Never ocured to me there might be some of those bulbs floating around over here. You now see alot of the blue types in cars and bikes. As a matter of fact my HID is the 6000 color spectrum which is brite white with a tinge of blue. Work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted December 17, 2013 Share #8 Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) there are a few different types of yellow bulbs available and this is one. Theu=y also make one a shade lighter and I really like it as it has just a hint of yellow and really makes your bike or car get noticed. I find the hint of yellow really seems to help contrast the objects infront of me, but according to other people it doesnt help at all. i was going to put these in the passing lights when i get them installed on the RSV. BTW, Anyone know of a good deal on a passing light bar? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Optilux-H71070682-Series-Yellow-Halogen/dp/B001BM0H8G]Optilux H71070682 XY Series H4 12V 60/55W Xenon Yellow Halogen Bulb Set : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51fx14XezgL.@@AMEPARAM@@51fx14XezgL[/ame] Brian Edited December 17, 2013 by friesman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagie Posted December 18, 2013 Share #9 Posted December 18, 2013 anyone have any tips on installing an HID? haven't dug into it yet but have the kit in hand. Originally was going to swap out an LED Phase 7 only to find the lens mount is proprietary and won't take a complete change out. TIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 18, 2013 Share #10 Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) I have done one. The kit I got was plug and play for the most part. It came with a realy and a complete harness. Only thing I needed was about 3ft of 14ga wire I think. Send me an e-mail and I can try to send you some pics of the install. Ballest mounted off of the radio frame so it dont rattle and gets air. Power from battery and closing power comes off the signal from the aux power outlet. Per request. Nuttn fancy Edited December 19, 2013 by djh3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bert2006 Posted December 18, 2013 Share #11 Posted December 18, 2013 I have done one. The kit I got was plug and play for the most part. It came with a realy and a complete harness. Only thing I needed was about 3ft of 14ga wire I think. Send me an e-mail and I can try to send you some pics of the install. Would be super helpful if you could post them in the teck section. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 19, 2013 Share #12 Posted December 19, 2013 Added some info to post #10. See above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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