Spark plug R&R

[dna9656]

The manual doesn't give the procedure to remove the front (or rear) spark plugs on my

1st Generation.

Verbiage would be most helpful, accompanying Pics would be REALLY GREAT!

Thanks in advance!

[utadventure]

Really a pretty easy process, after removing the side panels.

 

1 Shift or remove the plastic heat shields out of the way.

2 With a compressor or can of air, blow out any debris from the spark plug wells

3 Lift off the plug wires

4 I use a spark plug socket (i got mine from the dealer) that fits plug on one end and can be turned with a 14mm ratcheting wrench on the top end.

5 Gap the new plug and replace the cap. Repeat for the other three plugs.

6 Replace the heat shields.

 

Good luck!!

[Condor]

As above... plus you can also use one of the flat 14mm wrenches that come with the OEM tool kit if available. Generally the plug loosens in a 1/4 turn. Remove the spark plug socket and slip a 12"x5/16" fuel line over the tip of the plug and unscrew it the rest of the way. Use the plug socket to start the spark plug back in and then use the hose to thread it in the rest of the way. Snug the plug down with the socket/wrench again. Be very careful when starting the new plug and make sure it goes in easily. You don't want to cross thread anything. It's about the only finesse part about changing the plugs....

[Venturous Randy]

I also use some anti seize on the plug threads. Another thing you may want to do is take a small serewdriver and take the cap apart and check for corrosion. There is a small spring in there, so don't lose it.

RandyA

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

IF you have a factory tool kit and it has the plug tool in it, that is the best to use from what I found in the 3 times I changed my first gen plugs. It is a bit slower than a ratchet but works well. Take your time, and it could be worse, you could have a second gen to change plugs in.... now that is fun.

 

[dna9656]

OK in the one cap (we're talking about the

terminus for the spark plug wire at the plug end

right?) that came apart I saw no spring, just the

pokie (pointed tip) that gets shoved into the high

tension wire. I removed the LARGE grommets off

the angled connector (to the spark plug) and

cleaned those. The cap that came apart was the

forward left cylinder.

I was taught to use fuel hose (or what's even

better is a silicon rubber spark plug boot with a

bit or vacuum hose TIGHTLY jammed into the

small end of the boot, this was you get a slender

extension onto that boot and the smaller hose

bend a bit easier than fuel hose) on the ends of

spark plugs to get the threads started instead of

a socket (unless you're using your fingers to turn

the socket) because there wouldn't be enough

torque (like there would be if you used a socket

and ratchet) to create a cross-thread. But what

ever works for each of us. Thanks to you all for

all the great knowhow and advise.

It's not like I didn't spend 16 years in USAF

vehicle Maintenance, it's just that bikes are a lot

different and why learn the hard way when I can

ask you wonderful guys for all the short cuts?

The plugs looked like hell. Black and wet, wet

from too much fuel and no starts. A bit of oil

down in the plug recesses too. I'm thinking that

came from the cover vent hoses? The are maybe

3/4" OD, they look analogous to a PVC hose on a

car...

Anyway I cleaned out the reassess with a fuel line

duct taped to the shop vac, then a nylon cleaning

brush wrapped with a clean rag. Inspected with a

25 cent size inspection mirror and got it as clean

as possible. After it's up and running I will flush

any remainder out with that $1.25 a can carb

cleaner Wal-Mart carries.

[dna9656]

IF you have a factory tool kit and it has the plug tool in it, that is the best to use from what I found in the 3 times I changed my first gen plugs. It is a bit slower than a ratchet but works well. Take your time, and it could be worse, you could have a second gen to change plugs in.... now that is fun.

 

I have an 85 too, the bags and trunk are HUGE!

[jasonm.]

the OEM spark plug caps can be disassembled. The area where the cap meets the spark plug. A straight screw driver can disassemble -UNSCREW the terminal assembly. Be aware there is BOTH a spring a tiny brass washer, and resistor . Remove the cap and check the resistance with a digital ohm-meter. If the resistance is over 11k....take it apart. They can be cleaned where the resistor and washer and spring sit. Use only 1500 or finer paper. Do not sand the resistor more than one stroke. This will increase the resistance. The resisters inside can be bad where there resistance just goes up out of whack. In this case the cap would need replacement. NGK sell 5k resistance caps for about $5 . Note: these are cheap and recommend replacing them every 3 years. Or buy the OEMs for $30 each...which last 15+ years. DO NOT put any dielectric grease or anything in the assembly. Just reassemble

[terry hutchens]

i use a can that stuff you use to blow off your computer key board to clean out the plug wells. since i don't have a compressor.