Sexagenarian Posted December 9, 2013 #1 Posted December 9, 2013 I did not want to hijack this thread: Not a MC question about oil but there was some good info in that thread on motorcycle oil. My user manual states I should be using the following engine oil: If the temp is above 40 Fahrenheit, use Yamalube 4 (20W-40) motor oil If the temp is below 60 Fahrenheit, use Yamalube 4 (10W-30) motor oil So this must mean here in Minnesota, use 20W-40 in the springtime and through the summer months. When autumn arrives and the temp seldom gets above 60F anymore, then it is time to change the oil once again to 10W-30. Then ride on this until the salt season (first snow) arrives. This would be equivalent to two oil changes per year. To further complicate the issue, my yamaha dealer told me it is better to use 20W-50 instead of the 20W-40 on my older 1997 RSTD if I wanted to stay with the mineral based instead of trying synthetic. So I wintered the bike with the 20W-50 as I only had a few hundred miles on it since it was changed, and did not want to change it again this year. I know some of you are now using synthetic instead of the mineral based. And I have already read some really long topics on the pro's and con's of each and do not wish to start that debate all over again here. But the more I think about it, I really do wish to know why my dealer would lead me away from the 20W-40, towards the 20W-50. Especially here in Minnesota. Does this make sense to some of you mechanical guru's? Was this nothing more than a sales pitch to upsell me? Or is there some viable advice in their recommendation? thank you in advance...
Yammer Dan Posted December 9, 2013 #2 Posted December 9, 2013 Most important thing is to choose a Good oil and change it as you should. I have used Castrol 20/50 since the early 60's. Never had a oil related problem. The important thing is to change it before it wears out!! The Synthetics seem to hold up longer. I change mine every 3000 to 3500 miles. Just pick a Good one stay with it and change it as you should.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted December 9, 2013 #3 Posted December 9, 2013 To further complicate the issue, my yamaha dealer told me it is better to use 20W-50 instead of the 20W-40 on my older 1997 RSTD if I wanted to stay with the mineral based instead of trying synthetic. ....is there some viable advice in their recommendation? Define 'older'...if that also means 'high mileage', then it MIGHT be of some value to use slightly thicker oil in the summer. Notice I said 'might'. Other wise, it seems that maybe you are overthinking this. Just run what the manual says, or use some other good quality oil that is made for wet clutches...and you should be fine.
Yammer Dan Posted December 9, 2013 #4 Posted December 9, 2013 I should have mentioned that. Just make sure what you use has no friction modifiers in it. Pay crazy prices for motorcycle oil in my opinion is a good way to throw your money away. Castrol 20/50 car oil is what I use.
Peder_y2k Posted December 9, 2013 #5 Posted December 9, 2013 FYI in researching synthetic oils, be aware that there are two groups: the originals made from man made chemicals like polyesters, and the new generation made from highly refined mineral (crude) oils. Castrol tipped the scales of defenition in a court of law action to get their crude oil product labeled as synthetic to fool the public. google it and read all about it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
MiCarl Posted December 9, 2013 #6 Posted December 9, 2013 FYI in researching synthetic oils, be aware that there are two groups: the originals made from man made chemicals like polyesters, and the new generation made from highly refined mineral (crude) oils. Castrol tipped the scales of defenition in a court of law action to get their crude oil product labeled as synthetic to fool the public. google it and read all about it. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA The difference is the manufacturing process. The end result is chemically identical. That's the essence of the court ruling - if the stuff in the bottle is identical it doesn't mater to the consumer how it got there. As far as why your dealer may have steered you to 20W50: I've only seen the 20W40 and 10W30 in OEM (Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda etc.) packaging. The major distributors offer 20W50 and 10W40, which the dealer can get for less $ than something in an OEM bottle.
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