Progress on the '83 VR

[dna9656]

First things first: I want to thank all of you that have responded to my posts and PMs!

 

Your input helped me avoid making some mistakes and to do things a better way than I

 

originally thought to do them. I sure hope that doesn't stop!

 

WAY to GO Forum members!

 

 

Yesterday I installed a 8 circuit fuse block, leaving me with 3 spaces for the other in-line

 

fuses located in the pocket behind the fork tube. So as Yamaha didn't provide a space in

 

the original fuse block for these circuits that are fused in-line; am I too understand they

 

are connected to OPTIONAL equipment as in part of what makes the bike a ROYALE? OR

 

are the fuses I read about in this pocket the "MAIN" 40 amp and the 20 amp fuse on the

 

left and right side (respectively) ?

 

I sawed the ground/accessory bus from the old fuse panel and trimmed the square shaped

 

end of the new fuse block to fit into the old fuse block base; then I screwed the bus to the

 

new block and old base.

 

The new block is secured to the old base at the aft end through the original mounting hole.

 

I found the MAIN fuse (40 amp) located coming off the POS + battery terminal as you all

 

probably know it's a strip of metal but not in a glass tube housed in a plastic box.

 

 

I also found another fuse in a rubber box (for want of a better word) that carries a spare

 

inside, it's 20 amps.

 

I'd like to move these fuses to the new block for convenience sake Is there any reason

 

that would not be a good idea?

 

 

I back flushed the carbs as directed here by skydoc_17, put fuel in the tank then I jumped

 

the main (blown) fuse with a 15 amp fuse (just in case) besides I didn't a replacement 40 amp fuse

 

(in any style) turned on the key and the bike came on.

 

The still OPEN bowl drains did their (an effective indicator that the fuel pump still works) job

 

admirably, so after turning the bike off and closing the drains (and a clean up) I turned

 

the bike back on. The computer ran it's test, the CB came on and was scanning channels

 

(no sound) the AM/FM did not come on probably because I had it out when washing the

 

bike and don't have it FULLY re-installed. It did come on at the seller's house...the fuel

 

pump ran filling the bowls, no leaks were noted!!!! So cleaning the bowls did the trick!

 

 

The right fwd. carb has no drain hose, it looks like it has to have a 90 degree elbow

 

connecting the drain pipe to the hose? Well if it does it's gone. It's awfully crowded back

 

there, is there anyone that got the hose back on that drain without pulling the carbs out?

 

The red WARNING light on the dash flashes?

 

Is this because the battery I'm using has no sensor?

 

The head light and blinkers worked. I didn't take notice of any other lights.

 

 

She tried to start but while she ran at the seller's house she wouldn't last night. The

 

battery I'm using is older (it came with the 99 road star) and smaller than what is

 

supposed to be in there. I think it's a group 16 VS a group 18.

 

She did give me a very satisfying back fire however!

 

(changed pants and went back to work)

 

I'm headed out to get some fuses and see if I can get the title transferred today.

 

I'll be watching the emails for your very helpful input!

 

Edited December 1, 2013 by dna9656

[dingy]

The rubber hose you are missing is to direct the fuel from the bowl out to the front side of the cards when you drain them. Also useful if you want to check the float levels.

 

I elected to not put them on the carbs I rebuilt for the Hybrid bike I am working on. I know the floats are correct. Have never had the need to drain the carbs on Tweety (83, by title). Choice was an appearance issue for me, don't like the looks of them sticking out. I may use the holes they are supposed to stick through to mount a 'V' shaped plate beneath the carbs to cover up that area.

 

The black fuse holder with two fuses in it is for the cruise control. I didn't think any of the 'true' 83's had cruise. There are some bikes titled 83's that are more of an 84 style though. Serial numbers on these notch bikes start with JYA47. Another way of telling is if the choke lever is below the left hand switch holder, it is an 83, if it is around the left hand grip it is an 84 style.

 

Gary

[dna9656]

My VIN indeed IS JAY47T004DA000327 and the choke is like the 84 so maybe there was a Owner Initiated Recall....

Just picked up a new battery and I ordered a 40 amp ATO breaker to replace the fuse in the case. I would hate to try to change that fuse (or the cruise control fuse) anywhere much less on the road, in the dark, in a galaxy far, far away. There is a Inter-galactic law that states your vehicle NEVER breaks down in your driveway....

[Venturous Randy]

 

The red WARNING light on the dash flashes?

 

Is this because the battery I'm using has no sensor?

 

The head light and blinkers worked. I didn't take notice of any other lights.

 

 

If there is a warning light blinking, there should be at least one of the icons on the CMS on. Just make sure that if you are on the center stand that the side stand is up.

RandyA

[mraf]

Do this for the battery light fix.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489

[mraf]

Backfire? Put in new plugs and put top of air cleaner on. Plugs are cheap and the Venture doesn't like to run with the air box open.

[dna9656]

Well I got the fuses and bought the battery, I moved all the fuses to the new fuse block,

 

got the label maker and labeled all the fuse sizes and circuit ID.

 

Dang; it looks lust like Yamaha did it! Am about to go hook up the charger.

 

QUOTE=dna9656;807042]First things first: I want to thank all of you that have responded to my posts and PMs!

 

Your input helped me avoid making some mistakes and to do things a better way than I

 

originally thought to do them. I sure hope that doesn't stop!

 

WAY to GO Forum members!

 

 

Yesterday I installed a 8 circuit fuse block, leaving me with 3 spaces for the other in-line

 

fuses located in the pocket behind the fork tube. So as Yamaha didn't provide a space in

 

the original fuse block for these circuits that are fused in-line; am I too understand they

 

are connected to OPTIONAL equipment as in part of what makes the bike a ROYALE? OR

 

are the fuses I read about in this pocket the "MAIN" 40 amp and the 20 amp fuse on the

 

left and right side (respectively) ?

 

I sawed the ground/accessory bus from the old fuse panel and trimmed the square shaped

 

end of the new fuse block to fit into the old fuse block base; then I screwed the bus to the

 

new block and old base.

 

The new block is secured to the old base at the aft end through the original mounting hole.

 

I found the MAIN fuse (40 amp) located coming off the POS + battery terminal as you all

 

probably know it's a strip of metal but not in a glass tube housed in a plastic box.

 

 

I also found another fuse in a rubber box (for want of a better word) that carries a spare

 

inside, it's 20 amps.

 

I'd like to move these fuses to the new block for convenience sake Is there any reason

 

that would not be a good idea?

 

 

I back flushed the carbs as directed here by skydoc_17, put fuel in the tank then I jumped

 

the main (blown) fuse with a 15 amp fuse (just in case) besides I didn't a replacement 40 amp fuse

 

(in any style) turned on the key and the bike came on.

 

The still OPEN bowl drains did their (an effective indicator that the fuel pump still works) job

 

admirably, so after turning the bike off and closing the drains (and a clean up) I turned

 

the bike back on. The computer ran it's test, the CB came on and was scanning channels

 

(no sound) the AM/FM did not come on probably because I had it out when washing the

 

bike and don't have it FULLY re-installed. It did come on at the seller's house...the fuel

 

pump ran filling the bowls, no leaks were noted!!!! So cleaning the bowls did the trick!

 

 

The right fwd. carb has no drain hose, it looks like it has to have a 90 degree elbow

 

connecting the drain pipe to the hose? Well if it does it's gone. It's awfully crowded back

 

there, is there anyone that got the hose back on that drain without pulling the carbs out?

 

The red WARNING light on the dash flashes?

 

Is this because the battery I'm using has no sensor?

 

The head light and blinkers worked. I didn't take notice of any other lights.

 

 

She tried to start but while she ran at the seller's house she wouldn't last night. The

 

battery I'm using is older (it came with the 99 road star) and smaller than what is

 

supposed to be in there. I think it's a group 16 VS a group 18.

 

She did give me a very satisfying back fire however!

 

(changed pants and went back to work)

 

I'm headed out to get some fuses and see if I can get the title transferred today.

 

I'll be watching the emails for your very helpful input!

 

[dna9656]

If there is a warning light blinking, there should be at least one of the icons on the CMS on. Just make sure that if you are on the center stand that the side stand is up.

RandyA

 

Th battery symbol is the only icon left on after the tests are complete. So it's the battery's lack of a sensor....

[dna9656]

Backfire? Put in new plugs and put top of air cleaner on. Plugs are cheap and the Venture doesn't like to run with the air box open.

 

OK will do! I figured the plugs to need replacing "just because" but hadn't got to it yet.

Any recommendations on plugs/brand?

[Squidley]

Any recommendations on plugs/brand?

NGK's

[dna9656]

The battery symbol is on in the computer with the flashing red warning light. I ASSUME its the battery sensor (faulty?)

[Venturous Randy]

The battery symbol is on in the computer with the flashing red warning light. I ASSUME its the battery sensor (faulty?)

 

If you do not have the battery sensor in the battery, the icon will come on. To bypass the sensor you will need to install a resistor.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489

RandyA

[dna9656]

Got the title transferred. Got the air box back on; it was filthy. Got the new battery in. Got a can of Seafoam. I thought once it was running again (it ran at the POs house until it pumped the gas onto the ground) I would add the recommended amount of Seafoam (just what is the recommended amount anyway?) to the tank and let it idle for a while.

Now when I crank it doesn't try to start, no back fire, cough or anything. So my plan is squirt some gas down through the air box into the carbs and see if it'll kick off. If no joy I will proceed to pull a plug wire off, put an old plug in it, ground the plug hit the starter and see if I got spark. I will; check the other three as well. If no spark does that equal a bad ignition module? I have the 85 bike; I don't suppose that Ign. module is compatible is it?

I suppose it could be carb problems if I have spark, and it kicks off but doesn't continue to run.

If this were a car I would proceed to check fuel pump operation if ok then I would rebuild the carbs.

How's my thinking so far?

Edited December 11, 2013 by dna9656

[bongobobny]

OK Seafoam, 1/2 can to a full tank of gas normally, but a full can to a tank of gas is a good idea for extremely gunked up carbs. I would first sample what is coming out of the bottom of the fuel tank before you go any further, it may be contaminated with rust, moisture, etc. Also, a new fuel filter may be in order as even though your fuel pump is working you can lose pressure thru a clogged filter.

 

No spark is not necessarily the TCI, there is a lot other causes, but it could be the TCI. No, an '85 will not work on the '83 as the '83 has a TCI that only works with that particular year. It has to do with the vacuum advance circuitry being exactly opposite of the rest of the years. That has to do with where the vacuum is sampled from on the '83 as opposed to the following years. The vacuum is 180 degrees out of phase so when you need the spark to advance it will retard, etc...

 

Once you get it running and run a tank full of seafoam treated gas plan on replacing the plugs again as a lot of crud will be broken loose and it may foul out your plugs...

[dna9656]

Got the 4 brush starter installed with the upgrade cabling to include the ground wire from the battery - to without removing the radiator. On re-assembly I cleaned and lightly greased the starter is all the appropriate places...

I Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the hose that runs down the L/H side to the by-pass valve/pipe assembly.

3. Remove all other hoses on the by-pass assembly.

3. Remove screw that holds clamp on by-pass assembly and the T-stat (on the right

side of the T-stat) and the screw on the right side of the T-stat.

4. Remove by-pass vale/piping assembly.

5. Using a block of wood GENTLY tap the T-stat housing off and away from the plastic

elbow that leads into the water pump. Take the T-stat assembly away from the engine.

6. GENTLY remove (twist) the plastic elbow out of the water pump outlet.

7. Remove "HOT" wire from starter.

8. Remove 2 screws that hold the starter to the block.

9. Clean all areas, clean areas where the starter sits in the hole in the block, clean the

starter up, clean up the drain assembly, clean anything and all things with in a 6"

radius of the starter.

Follow the factory service manual or the text you have.