Splitting fairing

[ediddy]

For the first time, I'm having to split the fairing on my 05 RSV. My radio and CB are doing strange things. I looked up and printed the right up Freebird did on splitting the fairing but my questions is, Do I need to use some kind of electrical cleaner or just use dilectric grease on the connections?

[Guest]

Eddie, if the connections look corroded then use a cleaner. If not just use some dialectric grease sparingly on the connections. And be careful with that chrome strip when you remove it.

[StarFan]

And Eddie if you have the passing lamps then cover your fender with a thick cloth or towel since you will have to loosen the passing lamps bracket and get them out of the way to be able to get the fairing off without scratching it. The clearance between the lamps and the fairing is very tight.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

With all due respect to Ruffy, I would go ahead and buy some zero-residue contact cleaner, (tuner cleaner as its sometimes called) shoot it with the little nozzle into the connectors, allow it to dry, (less than a minute) cycle the connectors a few times, and then coat the interior of the connectors with the dialectric grease, and reassemble, then zip-tie it all back together.

 

If you are already in the fairing, I would suggest doing it right, covering all the bases, so to speak. An 8 year old bike that is already having electrical gremlins deserves a $7 can of cleaner to be bought and used.

 

Just my 2 cents....

 

 

Edited November 22, 2013 by tx2sturgis

[Barrycuda]

And Eddie if you have the passing lamps then cover your fender with a thick cloth or towel since you will have to loosen the passing lamps bracket and get them out of the way to be able to get the fairing off without scratching it. The clearance between the lamps and the fairing is very tight.

 

 

+1 on the towel or blanket. This will protect the fender and paint, and avoid a silly mishap.

[XV1100SE]

...and if you don't have a passing light spacer... now would be a good time to add one. Mind you, if you haven't split the fairing in 8 years of owning the bike you are doing really well.

 

When I split the fairing I plan ahead and consider any other things I want to add or do inside the fairing. Look to see if you have a relay on your passing light, check all other connections, consider adding things like a Buddy Rich cable, adding a splitter to the Aux input...

 

Also, consider replacing your headlight bulb. If you haven't changed it in a while, you might want to take a preventative step and replace it before it burns out. If it is the OEM bulb, consider the Ultra Star, look into LED or HID. You'll have to aim your headlight after doing this, but checking the aim on your headlight and passing lights occasionally is a good idea anyway.

[Mike G in SC]

And, while in there, you may want to replace the passing lamp inline glass fuse holder a bayonet type (car fuses). Cost about 5 bucks at NAPA.

And,,,, then use enough wire to hang the fuse through the fairing so you can access it in the same area as the headlight adjust knob.

 

SO, then if that fuse blows, like mine did, you won't have to get into the fairing to change it.

(also, the inline glass fuses tend to arc and blow easier than these)

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/782-2023-NAPA-FUSE-HOLDER-/03/!B05jTQ!EWk~$(KGrHqQOKiYEw)rR8(h0BMcVspTKdg~~_3.JPG

[Guest tx2sturgis]

..... then if that fuse blows, like mine did, you won't have to get into the fairing to change it.

 

Also, consider replacing your headlight bulb.....consider the Ultra Star...

 

+1 on both these ideas...

 

[djh3]

When I started reading up on the passing lights I thought for sure the dealer would install them correctly with a realy and all rite????? buzzzzz WRONG it was wired I'm guessing thru the ignition switch which draws thru it (not good) and then had quite a bit of amps pulling thru the wires and a glass fuse, but its alright because its fused right??

Here is a pic of the glass fuse on mine when I went to check because it quit on day. Wsnt the problem then as it turned out I pinched a wire in th epassing light wire bundle on the steering stops after putting back together from another project. Might be hard to see but the thing was melted.

[Bert2006]

+1 on both these ideas...

 

 

Most I can get out UltraStar lights is about 6 month. will never use them again, especially in the RSV as they are a pain to replace.

 

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Most I can get out UltraStar lights is about 6 month. will never use them again, especially in the RSV as they are a pain to replace.

 

 

Hmmm...maybe I have the SilverStar...cant remember...but mine have been working fine for over 2 years...

 

 

 

[djh3]

I had a really nice bright Wagner 85w100 in mine before I went HID. I actually like the Wagner better than the HID, but I got leary the wiring could handle it.

[Mike G in SC]

Most I can get out UltraStar lights is about 6 month. will never use them again, especially in the RSV as they are a pain to replace.

 

Same for me on the Ultra Star, 6 months. I started using PIAA, now get years.

Seems like I bought them off Amazon in the 2-pack.

[Bert2006]

Same for me on the Ultra Star, 6 months. I started using PIAA, now get years.

Seems like I bought them off Amazon in the 2-pack.

 

Which PIAA....do you have a part number?

[Mike G in SC]

Which PIAA....do you have a part number?

Bert, The H4 (Piaa Part # 10904, Model #H-445E)

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10904-H4-Intense-White/dp/B000MG40QW]Amazon.com: PIAA 10904 H4 Intense White - H4 60/55W=135/125W Xtra Intense White Bulb, Twin Pack: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31E5YHnwdIL.@@AMEPARAM@@31E5YHnwdIL[/ame]

Called Intense White. I don't see that model available on-line.

Now, I might pick up the Extreme white anti-vibration model.

 

I think I have one in my RSTD and my RSV.

 

Still have one left in the twin pack. So, think the other is in the Venture.

I've had the Venture 3+ years and think I had my dealer put one in when he installed the passing lamps, soon after I got it.

 

Both Royals are better on the lamps then my Road Star was.

Must be that smooth running V4!!!

 

Mike G.

[Sylvester]

And, while in there, you may want to replace the passing lamp inline glass fuse holder a bayonet type (car fuses). Cost about 5 bucks at NAPA.

And,,,, then use enough wire to hang the fuse through the fairing so you can access it in the same area as the headlight adjust knob.

 

SO, then if that fuse blows, like mine did, you won't have to get into the fairing to change it.

(also, the inline glass fuses tend to arc and blow easier than these),

 

 

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/782-2023-NAPA-FUSE-HOLDER-/03/!B05jTQ!EWk~$(KGrHqQOKiYEw)rR8(h0BMcVspTKdg~~_3.JPG

 

Mike, I swear, you have had more issues with 2nd gens. than anyone. Keep on keeping on my friend.

 

[ediddy]

What do you have to do to replace the RSV headlight bulb to a PIAA? Do you just replace or is any mod required.

[Mike G in SC]

Eddie,

Piaa is just another brand of the same thing,,, just brighter than OEM, as is the SilverStar. It is not Hi-Intensity, so just repalce like the OEM H4 bulb, no modifications.

 

And, is just an insert bulb that fits in the headlight can.

 

I have replaced on my RSTD, pretty simple, two side screws on the can.

I have not personally replaced on my RSV. As noted, had my dealer do it while he was installing the passing lamps.

Edited November 26, 2013 by Mike G in SC

[djh3]

Here is some info on a bulb that will truely make a difference. It has more wattage than the standard bulbs. 80w lo and 100w high. I have run them in my Kawasaki and also in this bike prior to going the HID route. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BP1210H4-Miniature-Lamp/dp/B000CR3UW6]Wagner BP1210H4 Miniature Lamp : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41n7oGVhB7L.@@AMEPARAM@@41n7oGVhB7L[/ame] They are available @ NAPA. I ran a modulator when I had this bulb and was sorry to give it up when I went to HID.