New owner (again)

[dna9656]

This my second 1st Gen. VR The first I bought used (it was an '83) and I totaled it. Some guy turned left in front of me at night. Anyway...

I got this 83 the other day and it has several issues:

We motored the engine by pushing it around a little; heavy bike! We put some gas in it to see if she'd start, she did after lots of attempts; she's been sitting for 2 years.

On the ground under the bike is most of the 1 gallon of gas we just poured into the tank. I figure every rubber line that carries fuel is suspect. My plan is to replace them all but with generic fuel rated hose, not the Yamaha ($$$) P/Ns. Issue: anyone know the sizes of these hose(es)?

Issue 2: When we got a charged battery hooked up all the lights came on including the CB, AM/FM (I didn't get any sound however) and Intercom. The head light came on too.

Now I after got home (see icon below) I was connecting the Neg. battery wire to the battery when touching the wire's terminal to the battery post to position it for installation the wire's terminal got REALLY HOT/REALLY FAST! Now I know I got a short someplace, curious it didn't do that at the prev. owner's house.

My Plan: Remove/or unplug everything electrical and start re-connecting them in some logical order while checking the Neg. wire's temperature between each subsequent connection.

A long and tedious process.

Anyone got a better way to proceed?

Apparently the battery (it's the correct one) sat in the bike "un-tended" for the whole 2 years. My 16 years in the USAF's Vehicle Maintenance field tell me it's GOT to be sulfated (shorted out) Apparently not; it's charging and I'm going out to test it with the trusty(?) harbor Freight battery load tester.

The 4 connectors for the 2 fuses at the bottom of the fuse panel are not there...I hope to find them today too.

uypdate: found 2 inline fuses down in the handle bar well.

I'm going to get the seat off, the battery box, and hopefully the fuel tank all off today to see the top of the carburetors and what is going on there. I hope the rubber lines are rotten and I don't have a rusted tank but they are avail available on ebay for a reasonable cost.

Is there a repair process for the front fairing? The outboard upper corners (by the mirrors) are cracked on my bike. I have repaired fiberglass, Kevlar (on Hum Vees) and Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) (it's used on the Transvans, Fieros, and trucks.

Is there a way to heat the seat on my bike?

Edited November 17, 2013 by dna9656
flow

[Venturous Randy]

Hey Doug, that is a nice looking 1st gen.

As far as the gas leaks, with as long as the bike sat, I would suspect the gas may be coming from the over flow tubes because you have a stuck float.

As for your electrical problem, you may have to chase down a ground, but I would do it as part of replacing the stock fuse panel with the blade type fuses. There is a member on here that sells a kit, or you can pick up a fuse block with about five or six fuses.

As far as the plastic repair, I have never had good luck with putting fiberglass on ABS plastic. There are some pretty good plastic epoxy products that work good.

In your USAF time, did you ever spend any time at Seymour Johnson air base in NC?

RandyA

[dna9656]

The web site won't let me post a response to you without quoting your reply.

I don't know why, I am a paid up member....it keeps asking me to sign in...

I was never posted to SJAFB, SC. I visited there once and some body in the Exchange walked up to me like he knew me and said "Hi! how ya been?" I just went along... I have no idea who it was....

I worked on JC-130, MC and AC 130s, then cross trained into Veh. Maint.

I was posted at the following in turn: Hickam AFB, HI., Hurlburt Fld. FL. Eglin AFB. FL., AFI Iceland, Homestead AFB. FL., Eielson AFB. AK., Goodfellow AFB. TX.,

McChord AFB. WA. I retired there. I now live across the sound from McChord near Bremerton, WA.

I found the wires for the circuits missing in my fuse block, apparently there fuse terminals were lost and they went to an in-line fix.... ok....

Are the all the plastic parts on the VR ABS? Has that been confirmed?

I got the seat off, what's under there is kind of intimidating...I have a Yamaha manual but I also know the manual doesn't tell you all you need to know...

Thanks for your kind response! I'll be checking back....feel free to email....

[dueyk1111]

dont know if you have a farm n fleet store i n your area, but go to auto parts store n get yourself some abs epoxy, two part syringe type deal ,squezes out epoxy n hardener at same time, mix n apply where needed! stuff works great. used on my 2nd gen under front fairing n lowers. held great! good luck:thumbsup2:

[dna9656]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gp7ZoEKsL._SX425_.jpg

Is this what you're talking about?

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-Plastic-Fusion-Adhesive/dp/B000LGT0GI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384732800&sr=8-1&keywords=abs+epoxy%2C+two+part+syringe+type]Super Glue Plastic Fusion Epoxy Adhesive #15277 - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Gp7ZoEKsL.@@AMEPARAM@@41Gp7ZoEKsL[/ame]

[dna9656]

I looked here http://www.farmandfleet.com I can't be sure that's correct, I live on the West coast and it looks like all the stores are on the East side of the country; can you show me the one you refer too please?

[jasonm.]

the best and least knoxious of the plastic welder epoxies is Devcon plastic Welder(True Value hrdwr) and a Permatex brand (Advance Auto). Both make a cream color mixture. Warning:The Super Glue brand has the most knoxious fumes...I almost passed out using it.

[dna9656]

Can't find how to remove the fuel tank in the in the service manual; the fuel system in the 84 M/Y doesn't talk about it....

[jasonm.]

why are you removing the fuel tank? That is a big job..it's under the seat and requires the rear frame to be removed. The fuel lines are accessable from under the tank and sides...easier to see after removing passanger pegs and side covers. There is NO reason to remove the fuel tank unless it's rusted inside.Do you mean the fake fual tank cover? That is ONE SCREW by the gas door. and the cover slides forward an inch or 2 to remove. You want to see the carbs...then after the cover...remove the air box. The air box also has one or 2 hoses to it for PCV and such. You sure it's the OEM Yamaha SERVICE MANUAL ? Mine tells me everything. if you have just the owners manual...get the service manual.

Edited November 18, 2013 by jasonm.

[dna9656]

It's Yamaha's service manual. I got the owner's manual too. I have the top cover off so I can see the battery, air box, and fuel filler neck, and fuse panel. I'm not familiar with the Yamaha Service Manual setup yet, I know I have to work with it until I learn what systems come under which chapter, I'm sure that's my problem. So far I find no chapter dealing with the fuel tank, only the carbs and the fuel pump and that part is in the 84 supplement. If you could give me the chapter and page that would be helpful.

I am unfamiliar with the fuel system, I thought the lines would be underneath the tank but from what you say they are not; they run along the sides? I know that whole gallon of gas we put in there sure came out onto the ground in a hurry, I think it was all out before we shut the engine off.

I haven't removed the batter or air box, I will do that next to see what I can see. I will have to go to Yamaha's web site and look at the Illustrated Parts Breakdown (IPB) or Exploded View to get the part numbers for the hoses, I'm thinking if 1 is shot they all can't be far behind. I will have to wait checking on the float being stuck because I have a big time electrical issue too.

I plan on picking up a gallon or 2 of denatured alcohol at Lowes and with a good, clean dip pan and a strainer I can reuse the alcohol until I find the leak. Looking at the sub-frame motivates me to trouble shoot some more before removing the tank.

I spent the rest of the day cleaning the under seat area and steel wooling the chrome.

What do you guys think?

[Venturous Randy]

Do you have a leak without the engine running? Do you have a leak when you turn on the ignition before you start the bike. Is the fuel leaking from any of the small hoses hanging down in front of the rear tire? Is it leaking from the fuel filter, which is in front of the rear tire?

If you have a fuel leak and an electrical ground, make sure you have a good fire extinguisher close by.

RandyA

[gscbertrand]

With the seat off you can remove the float from the gas tank and with a flash light get a good look inside. My tank was solid rust from 17 years of sitting in a barn drained dry. That was my first job and 2 years later I took my first ride on the bike to Yellowstone. WOW! Keep people on here informed and you will have all the help you need for all the work you are probably be doing in the near future. When we can't ride we maintain.

[dna9656]

Pretty sure it leaks with engine running but haven't confirmed it yet. Don't know for sure if it's fuel pump related yet and don't know where it's leaking from I do know there was a good puddle directly under the bike...

 

Do you have a leak without the engine running? Do you have a leak when you turn on the ignition before you start the bike. Is the fuel leaking from any of the small hoses hanging down in front of the rear tire? Is it leaking from the fuel filter, which is in front of the rear tire?

If you have a fuel leak and an electrical ground, make sure you have a good fire extinguisher close by.

RandyA

[Flyinfool]

Are you planning to trouble shoot the fuel leak using alcohol?

 

That would not be any good for the fuel system components. The fuel system was not designed to handle alcohol. Even the 10% that is in modern gas is not doing these old engines any good.

 

You are best off doing the trouble shooting with fresh gas. Just be very careful about fumes and ignition sources and do this outside just in case. There was just a post very recently of someone that had a fuel leak while riding and the whole bike wet up in flames.

[Jayceesfolly]

The fuel pump will only pump fuel to the carb bowls for a few seconds and then will shut off because the bike has a sensor that prevents the fuel pump from continuous operation, unless it detects the engine running. When the key is first turned on, you will hear a series of clicks as the pump operates. Then will stop after the sensor turns the pump off, if the engine does not start. You may have to turn the key on and off several times to get the carb bowls full. After each series of "clicks" look for the fuel leak after each cycle. As stated in a previous post, it is probably stuck floats. If you can get them to shut off, your best bet is to do a Seafoam soak for the carbs.

The fuel pump is located under the left (kickstand) side of the fuel tank and is round with four bolts on the face of it.

 

As stated earlier, one of our members (Skydoc_17) sells a fuse block that has everything you need to change your fuses. It is a great kit and is complete with instructions.

 

Here is the page: (also can be found in the Classifieds at the top of the Forum header, and then click on Member Vendors and then Skydoc_17)

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3762&title=first-genfuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22

 

 

Jim

[dna9656]

What EXCELLENT advice you all have given and helped me avoid a screwing up the fuel

system with alcohol! Dang I knew better than that too!

 

I was wondering is there anyone in the Kitsap/Pierce (WA. State) County Area that has tire mounting tools/machine that could help me change the rear tire on my Road Star...I have the tire, probably the only Commander 2 tire 150/80 16 in the country (thank you motorsport.com!) and the tube and rim strip will be here next Friday (Thanks Dennis Kirk!).

Everybody here wants way too much to do it. I will be purchasing the tools myself as the $$$ become available, then I will be happy to help those here in need.

Haven't done a thing since my last post but go to work. I have BOTH days off this weekend so I hope to chase down the fuel leak and the electrical problems, pretty ambitious huh?

[oldandcrotchety]

Tube and rim strip? Your bike don't have tubleless tires? Mine does.

[dna9656]

I'm sorry ;I was referring to my 99 Road Star; it has spokes, my VR has cast wheels and uses tubless tires.

[oldandcrotchety]

Oooooh, Gotcha! Yeah, spoked wheels for sure need the tube and rim strip. I misunderstood and thought you were referring to your venture. Sorry.

[dna9656]

Ok got the carb cleaner at Wal-Mart, less then $1.35 a can for 12 OZ. and it works just

 

good as the $3.00 a can stuff only better cause it's cheaper!

 

I can't find a drain screw black or otherwise. I do not see one in the factory service

 

manual chapter on carb rebuild either. Are they easily accessible while installed?

 

I'm missing 1 drain tube from the right rear carb, I went looking for it down on the engine

 

but no joy.

 

So I connected the battery today and after it's been on the charger for a week it has 6.7

 

volts and the load tested doesn't even react to the battery. So much for that battery.

 

Speaking of a new battery, do we re-use the battery condition probe in a new conventional

 

battery or just install the resistor that's discussed in the tech section and let it go?

 

Is this why NOTHING happened when the battery is connected and the key is turned?

 

The last time I just touched the - wire to the battery (a fully charged spare I have) and

 

turned the key on it got pretty hot really fast ...today nothing.

 

After pouring it a quart or so of gas into the tank no leaks from the tank (or anywhere

 

else) were observed so that indicated the leak in down stream of the pump

 

I will install a new fuse block this weekend so I will have a more stable fusing situation.

 

Does anyone have a DIAGRAM (vs. a schematic) that is an visual depiction of the wiring

 

(not like a schematic) as we see it on the bike?

Comments, input, cautions?