Passng lamps

[TheCoffsKid]

Hi,

 

I have mounted the lamps over the indicators, now to the wiring.

 

Is it possible to use an inline fuse that is provided and tap into the high-beam wire without using a relay?

 

Be gentle, I'm new at this.

 

Cheers,

 

gd

 

[StarFan]

Well I just bought the passing lamps and mounts and will have them in a week from now. Took a look at the online instructions from Yamaha and have to say it looks rather complicated to get this installed and hooked up. Still the instructions seemed pretty thorough so I am quite confident I can do this. I don´t like the electrical part of it though but guess it will be trial and error.

Good luck with your wiring - I am sure you´ll be fine

 

Friendly regards from Iceland,

 

Jonas / StarFan

[vzuden]

Go to the VR Tech section. There are wiring instructions there that should help

[MidlifeVenture]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=525

Think you want to do the relay to prevent the current draw trough the already sensitive ignition switch. I had this bookmarked as a want to do.

[MikeWa]

Yes you can wire the lights without a relay.

Mine are wired to the low beams for less load on the light circuit. Just follow the wiring instructions that came with the lights. When routing the wires to behind the fairing be very carefull. Route them behind the fairing support bar (harder). If you route them in front of the support (easier) they can be pinched when the wheel is fully turned to the left. As when parking the bike. This can short out your lights and blow the fuse.

 

If you are going to connect them to the high beam I highly recomment a relay. In fact I recomment a relay period. As it greatly reduces the load on your ignition and light switchs. Any four terminal fog light or defogger relay should work.

 

Mike

[TheCoffsKid]

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

 

StarFan, if you see a cloud appear on the horizon, it will be me getting it wrong

 

cheers,

 

[wes0778]

Hi,

 

I have mounted the lamps over the indicators, now to the wiring.

 

Is it possible to use an inline fuse that is provided and tap into the high-beam wire without using a relay?

 

Be gentle, I'm new at this.

 

Cheers,

 

gd

 

 

To answer your question; Yes you CAN. Is it advisable? NO!

 

May be over kill, but I even put my headlight on a relay. Now my ignition switch runs a little cooler.

Now by putting my passing lights on a separate relay(yes my passing lights are on anytime the ignition is on) I have two points of failure so that in the event something blows either fuse, I still have the other light/lights on. I even put a bypass switch across the headlight relay, just in case of a relay failure.

[Flyinfool]

To answer your question; Yes you CAN. Is it advisable? NO!

 

May be over kill, but I even put my headlight on a relay. Now my ignition switch runs a little cooler.

Now by putting my passing lights on a separate relay(yes my passing lights are on anytime the ignition is on) I have two points of failure so that in the event something blows either fuse, I still have the other light/lights on. I even put a bypass switch across the headlight relay, just in case of a relay failure.

:sign yeah that:

 

Instead of wiring the emergency switch, I just carry an extra relay. I have very many things hooked up on relays and since I always use the same relay, that one spare covers many circuits. The odds of 2 relays dieing on the same trip are very slim. But even if that did happen I could swap out a relay from a less critical circuit to keep going. ALL auto parts stores and even many gas station convenience stores carry the relay to restock the spares. In 40 years of using these relays I have only had one failure. That one failure was 15 years old with 250K miles of hard daily use.

[TheCoffsKid]

Ok, so information that I am getting is that I need to create a separate circuit using a relay and inline fuse. No problems with that.

 

1. Can I bypass the ignition switch all together?

 

2. Has there ever been a more substantial ignition switch made by a third party or and OEM switch from Yamaha from another model; ie would the Road Star ignition switch plug 'n' play and handle the load?

 

3.In the diagrams from other members who have added lights it shows the connection to a switch; is this a third party switch or can I use the existing switchgear to provide power and functionality, or do I need to source a new switch.

 

I don't really want to add more "stuff" on the bars if I can avoid it.

 

Cheers,

 

[Flyinfool]

There are options.

 

1. Use a switched power source on the control side of the relay, this will have the lights on any time the ignition is on.

 

2. Add a switch to #1 so that you can have the passing lights on or off at will but they will still turn off with the ignition.

 

3. Wire the whole light circuit hot to the battery, this will allow lights whether the bike is running or not. BUT this allows you to forget and leave the lights on and a dead battery.

 

All of my vehicles are wired using #2. with the control power coming from the headlight circuit so that the passing lights are only on if the headlight is on.

 

There are still more options depending on what you want.

[TheCoffsKid]

Saw a post by Carbon One about how to bypass the ignition, which if I have read it correctly (?) I should be able to use my driving light on high-beam and not overload the ignition switch.

 

I hope.

 

 

ps

 

carbon, sorry to rain on your parade but the St George Dragons won our premier Rugby league competition in 1956, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65 and 1966.

They changed the rules and they finished runner up in 1967.

[wes0778]

Saw a post by Carbon One about how to bypass the ignition, which if I have read it correctly (?) I should be able to use my driving light on high-beam and not overload the ignition switch.

 

I hope.

 

 

ps

 

carbon, sorry to rain on your parade but the St George Dragons won our premier Rugby league competition in 1956, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65 and 1966.

They changed the rules and they finished runner up in 1967.

 

Hi guy!!!

You seemed determined to hook up your lights your way and that is your prerogative, but the bypass is for, and should be used only as, a "get home" fix for when your ignition switch fails.

[djh3]

I think maybe you are reading about 2 different "by-pass" One is the ignition switch by-pass which as been mentioned for a temp fix to get home. The other "by-pass" would be the by pass of the high beam so the lights will remain on no matter which beam is selected. My relay is energized when the swich is turned on. thats what controls the power to it, not the headlight switch. Only a coupl amps go thru the ignition switch or the headlight swich in this hook up.

Hear is a pic of my fuse holder (glass type) when not connected to a relay. If you look you will see it got so hot from running high voltage thru it all the time it melted the holder. How it still made a connection I have no idea. Also attached is a explanation and diagrham for a relay hook up.

[TheCoffsKid]

Ok, I give up...i'll go to an auto electrician and get them to do it

 

thanks for everyone's help

 

cheers,

 

[Flyinfool]

It is not that hard.

I think you are trying to mix two unrelated jobs.

One being the lights and the other being the ignition switch bypass.

 

Just tackle them one at a time.

[djh3]

If you can use a multi-meter I bet we can walk you thru this. My main power wire for the orginal lights is what I used for my power to the relay. Then run a power wire from the battery to a fused power source for the light switch.

[CATPower]

Relay's thats what I'm in progress of doing

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Just order an Eastern Beaver kit.

 

"H4 Single with Driving Lights Lead" is the one you need.

 

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html

 

 

You can skip the toggle switch or add one if desired.