synthetic oil

[Rodburner]

Walmart now carrys mobil one v-twin and valvoline 4t synthetic the venture really is not a v-twin witch one would be best for this bike I would like to give synthetic a try l use mobil one in all my cars

[Barrycuda]

Walmart now carrys mobil one v-twin and valvoline 4t synthetic the venture really is not a v-twin witch one would be best for this bike I would like to give synthetic a try l use mobil one in all my cars

 

Most everyone will agree that you will find all kinds of answers. There are many previous posts to search for. My 2cents is just what works for ME...

I JUST STARTED using mobil1 10w30 for my 2003 venture, after traditional 10/40. Some people commented about it being to thin in the Florida heat, but so far, after 3000 miles and a trip in August to tail of the dragon, the bike is holding up fine. To each there own...

[Ventureless]

I use shell rotella T6 synthetic. full synthetic and about $21 for the 4 quart jug. been a year and no issues at all and 80k miles on the bike.

[ACE50]

I use shell rotella T6 synthetic. full synthetic and about $21 for the 4 quart jug. been a year and no issues at all and 80k miles on the bike.

 

I've been using T6 also but I've learned they lowered the zinc content this year. May cause some wear issues. May try something else now.

Edited November 4, 2013 by ACE50

[RandyR]

The 4T twin oil is for large air cooled engines which get hotter than our water cooled engines do.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

The 4T twin oil is for large air cooled engines which get hotter than our water cooled engines do.

 

AND...V-Twin motor oil is not normally associated with a wet clutch. BigTwin HDs use a seperate oil supply for the clutch (in the primary drive). Could be some differences in the oil because of this. I am just speculating...

 

 

[bongobobny]

My personal feelings with synthetic are they keep their viscosity for a longer time so they are a superior lubricant, but with our wet clutch you have to make sure there are no friction modifiers in them. Although this is not your case, with new engines initial wear is important so that all parts wear into each other for better fit. Because of this I myself do not like using synthetic until a motor has at least 10,000 miles or more, however I will use a blended synthetic for longevity of the oil.

 

There are a couple of motorcycle specific synthetics out there but they tend to be a little pricy. I do like the Rotella synthetic 15W45 myself...

[djh3]

I have used both of those oils in this bike and my 900 Vulcan. I have been using the Shell Rotella T6 in this bike for the most part. I had enough Mobil 1 for a couple oil changes stored up when I bought this bike. Other than that I have used the Shell Rotella. In the summer down here in Fla I will use a quart of the 20w50 and the rest the T6 to give it a little more viscosity. If the oil has the JASMO spec on it it meets the manufactures requirments.

[aharbi]

I use Shell T6 synthetic in all my bikes, never had a problem. Never "wore-out" an engine. I always change oil and filter between 4k - 5k miles but have gone to 6k when on a trip. And it is less expensive than dino oil and expensive motorcycle only oils. Works for me.

[RandyR]

My personal feelings with synthetic are they keep their viscosity for a longer time so they are a superior lubricant, but with our wet clutch you have to make sure there are no friction modifiers in them. Although this is not your case, with new engines initial wear is important so that all parts wear into each other for better fit. Because of this I myself do not like using synthetic until a motor has at least 10,000 miles or more, however I will use a blended synthetic for longevity of the oil.

 

There are a couple of motorcycle specific synthetics out there but they tend to be a little pricy. I do like the Rotella synthetic 15W45 myself...

 

Bob,

 

I used to think this too. But in talking to a savvy dealer mechanic a couple years ago I was told that is no longer necessary because of improved metals and machining techniques today for some of the more expensive automobile engines.

 

But I can remember when a new vehicle came with breakin oil.

 

Randy

Edited November 5, 2013 by RandyR
qualified my reply

[bongobobny]

Yes, and Yamaha recommends an oil change after 500 miles when new, or at least did in 2009...

[IronMike]

As far as Changing the oil when new, at 5 miles is better than 500 and then again at 500. There is trash in there.

 

It Used to be in independent lab results Mobile one came a close second to Amsoil, things have seriously changed on the last Independent lab test results and a lot of oils have cheapened up the flavoring and Mobile one is not what it used to be at all.

 

So I hate having to have it shipped to the house but you can't beat the first and true synthetic Amsoil and in the long run it's cheaper.

 

You can however probably put the cheapest and worst preforming oil that meets the engine specs and be able to say "I haven't had any problems at all" in 8 years. But your engine will not agree.

 

The lack of the proper amount of Zddp is going to wreck havoc on the cams. A lot of the Diesel oils lack this. But they are running it anyways.

 

so the question is, are you keeping the bike and will you want to rely on the oil?

 

http://www.dualies.com/downloads/files/Oil%20Test%20Results%20-%20g2156.pdf

[RandyR]

Yes, and Yamaha recommends an oil change after 500 miles when new, or at least did in 2009...

 

yes. despite what I said above, I agree, that for our engines, its a good idea. Maybe even sooner as suggested.

 

 

btw, I recommend changing the rear gear oil then too even though Yamaha doesn't call for that until the next oil change. I saw crud in the old rear gear oil the first time I changed the gear oil.

[tnt05venture]

I would suggest using Amsoil 20w- 50. I was using the Yamaha 20W- 50 full synthetic but the price doubled. I tried the Valvoline but the tranny was too noisy and the motor was noisier than it should . I have been on 4 cross country trips and my bike was quieter on both the Yama-Lube and the Amsoil. Less whine and smoother shifting. I have 65K on my 05 RSV. Amsoil is available at my Local NAPA for $12 a Quart and I use a Purolator PureOne filter #14612. Just my 2 cents.

[Motorcycle Mike]

Is this the right Rotella oil?

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/rotella-t-15w-40-motor-oil-1-gallon-bottles-6-pack/prod2850014.ip

[Oldodge]

That is the dino oil. I used it in several bikes with no issues. I have run the T6 synthetic in my Vulcan. tried it twice but switched back to dino before 2k miles both times because I detected a change in clutch feel. Maybe just me but I tried it twice with the same result. The T6 is in the blue jug.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Oldodge
spelling

[Mike G in SC]

I've been using Amsoil 10W40 in my two Royals. (RSV@65k, RSTD@96k miles)

(Used 20W50 in the V-Twin Strat and Road Star)

I did go to motorcycle specific oil filters lately after seeing more info on the auto filters needing higher pressure than our bikes push.

 

I normally go 7000 miles on a change of Amsoil,,, have done bad math and gone to 12000. But oil still "felt" good.

 

But on a recent change what I noticed was time seemed more important than miles.

My RSV had about 6k on it, oil was 5 months old. My RSTD had a little more miles but oil was over a year old.

(I see my miles were cut way down this year with the constant rain this summer!)

The RSV oil looked and felt a lot fresher than the RSTD oil, a visible notice.

So, age (and maybe season changes) appeared to be more degrading than miles.

I can relate to that!