need advice on wiring LEDS and others lights

[baylensman]

so I bought the tripple switch block that mounts over the master cylinder and ran the wire bundle down under the fairing and tie wrapped in place for now at the front of the gas tank.

 

1 switch is for driving/passing/foglamps whatever you want to call them.

1 switch is for the LED (seven pods per side)

1 switch for the projector lamps under the saddle bags.

 

I want to be able to have the LEDS and projectors on with the key removed but not necessarliy together, but only want the front lights to come on with the headlight.

 

So the switch block has a red wire to power (battery direct i guess) black to ground (easy enough) white yellow and blue to the accesories.

 

So i assume i need a relay of some sort or would i actually need two relays? or is there some sort of relay with two inputs so that the lights would need both the headlight and the switch thrown to come on?

 

i've wire in remote relays before but they always ahve had a single input or trigger terminal not 2.

[Wizard765]

As long as the projectors are also LED then the switches should handle that current. I believe for the lights that you want to just have come on with the headlight you could just tie into the headlight circuit to power up the relay. You would only need one relay. The headlight goes off with the power so it would also kill the highway lights. If you wanted them only on with the high beam then tie into the high beam circuit.

My question is. Are the switches in the package wired independently? Or do they all have a common power and ground?

[Flyinfool]

Can you post a link, pics, something, to the switches that you have. It will help us determine the best way to help you.

 

Are these switches lighted?

 

It sounds like your switch does have a common power and ground. In which case you would need 2 relays for the driving lights. If it is or can be isolated, or if it can have the internal lights rewired, then you just need 1 relay.

 

There are a lot of options depending on exactly what you have and what you want to end up with.

Edited October 31, 2013 by Flyinfool

[baylensman]

http://www.bigbikeparts.com/Inventory/Navision/52-605A?catalogNo=

 

is the switch all of them have a common ground and power and yes they are lighted

[baylensman]

got thinking (very dangerous) can i power the relay from the third switch, and have the headlight trigger it? that way even if i leave the switch in the on position the running lights would go out when i pull the key. switch is supposed to be rated at nominal 10 amps i think.

[Flyinfool]

got thinking (very dangerous) can i power the relay from the third switch, and have the headlight trigger it? that way even if i leave the switch in the on position the running lights would go out when i pull the key. switch is supposed to be rated at nominal 10 amps i think.

 

Short answer, No. Or at least not easily.

 

 

Since you do have access to the internals of the switch box you can do all that you want with just a single relay.

 

Wire up per their instructions except make sure that there is a fuse in the red power lead.

 

Internally the red wire is connected to all 3 switches. Disconnect the red wire from whichever switch will be for your running lights.

Add a jumper from the black wire to the switch wire that you just disconnected.

The control wire will go to the coil of the relay. The other side of the relay coil will go to switched power.

The driving lights will connect with a fused wire from the battery to the contacts of the relay and the other relay contact will go to the lights.

 

The only issue with this is that the LED in the driving light switch will not light whether the switch is on or off.

 

If you really want that switch LED to light when the driving lights are on, then you will need to use a 2 relay setup and forget everything I said above cuz it will all be different.