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Posted

I've never been in this area before so I thought I'd ask around. What do I need to do to replace the throttle cables on the RSV? Can I snake the replacement cables around the front of the tree, or do I have to remove the fairling and left lower to get to the cruise control, to install?? I already have this bike naked with no fuel tank and no carbs. Inquiring mind would appreaciate a little feedback.... :confused07:

Posted
there is a how to in the tech library, under handle bars, good write up!

 

Yep, great write up, but it didn't have the info I needed. I have the complete throttle assembly including the junction box. So my plan was to disconnect the ends from the grip control and remove it totally, and then feed the entire replacement around the front of the tree from the left hand side so I don't have to deal with the box. Although the article was interesting, I don't need to take the junction box apart. What I do need from someone is whether I can feed, with the end fittings around the tree to the other side and not hit any obsticals. Feeding just the cables only through from the right hand side probably was pretty easy since there's aren't any end fittings to deal with. Thanks for the link... BTW there is a link at the end of the writeup to a .doc file write up that is much better than the one that originally comes up. I was hoping that someone might have already been down this road, but I guess not?? So it's going to be a 'learn as you go'.....

Posted

Jack, if I remember right I snaked the cables around the front of the tree and across the front of the neck. Now, you most likely will hit some obstructions. You can play with it and it should go through but if more clearance is needed the front of the fairing can be moved forward a bit if you loosen the two 10mm bolts that hold the fairing to the trees, accessible from the left and right lower sides of the headlight. A long extension and deep 10mm socket will take care of that. That should give you about 1/2 inch clearance. My cables are the Barnett 4" longer cables to accommodate the Flanders set-up. You have my old risers so that would make the stock cables a bit tight.

Posted
Jack, if I remember right I snaked the cables around the front of the tree and across the front of the neck. Now, you most likely will hit some obstructions. You can play with it and it should go through but if more clearance is needed the front of the fairing can be moved forward a bit if you loosen the two 10mm bolts that hold the fairing to the trees, accessible from the left and right lower sides of the headlight. A long extension and deep 10mm socket will take care of that. That should give you about 1/2 inch clearance. My cables are the Barnett 4" longer cables to accommodate the Flanders set-up. You have my old risers so that would make the stock cables a bit tight.

 

Thanks for the feedback..... :thumbsup2:

Posted
My cables are the Barnett 4" longer cables to accommodate the Flanders set-up. You have my old risers so that would make the stock cables a bit tight.

 

 

Ruffy was that to much? The extra 4" for the Flanders?

I put RSTD bars on last year and snaked them around the front neck and they are just long enough, I was wondering just what is the right extra length. Curious minds need to know.

Thanks in advance.

Posted

Bubber, they may actually be 2" over stock but im pretty sure I ordered the 4" over SS lines. Its been a few years since I ordered them so my mind may be fuzzy. They fit perfectly no matter what length I bought.

Posted
Bubber, they may actually be 2" over stock but im pretty sure I ordered the 4" over SS lines. Its been a few years since I ordered them so my mind may be fuzzy. They fit perfectly no matter what length I bought.

 

Two inches over will work for the RSTD handle bars. But I also went with four inches over in SS cables. I did this in case I went a different route later. I am very pleased with the RSTD bars on Sylvester.

 

:farmer:

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