DarrinGT Posted February 3, 2014 #26 Posted February 3, 2014 Winter time in Eastern Oklahoma so I took some time to dismantle the carbs and here is what I found: Another big find is a very loose almost noncontact connection on the white wire for the #4 coil!!! It turns out the PO wanted to hook his tachometer to the # 4 coil, he added some of those two on one spade connectors to the white and red coil wires. Can this tachometer interfere with the coil signal?? I think I'm getting some where on solving this long thread. As far as the Tac Connection goes, If it is properly done the tac will not interfere with the Coil Signal. This is how I have my tac setup as well, No problems. Sorry to say that is all of the knowledge that I can help you with,,....
rjsteiner01 Posted February 4, 2014 Author #27 Posted February 4, 2014 Great thread here! I would only add that our early bikes now suffer from pinholes in the rubber carb diaphragm, and the inlet boots as well. I will again be stripping the carbs to replace both (x4) items over the winter myself as a preventative task. There are some NOS intakes available on eBay for the $145 I think I saw last two weeks.
rjsteiner01 Posted February 16, 2014 Author #28 Posted February 16, 2014 Went through all the carbs, no obstructions. All jests are stock (95 & 17.5) and all jets are the same for all four carbs. Tested the coil for #4 cylinder, primary winding test good, secondary test bad in accordance with my service manual. They have one lead on the plug wire and one on iron for mounting the coil. I get an open winding testing this way, however if I move a probe from mounting iron to any primary tap I get correct resistance. I will search for how others are testing coils in the forum.
V7Goose Posted February 19, 2014 #29 Posted February 19, 2014 Went through all the carbs, no obstructions. All jests are stock (95 & 17.5) and all jets are the same for all four carbs. Tested the coil for #4 cylinder, primary winding test good, secondary test bad in accordance with my service manual. They have one lead on the plug wire and one on iron for mounting the coil. I get an open winding testing this way, however if I move a probe from mounting iron to any primary tap I get correct resistance. I will search for how others are testing coils in the forum.I do not know what manual you are using, or even if the coils on your bike are the same as the '99 & newer bikes, but be aware that the shop manual is WRONG on the coil resistance test for the 2nd gens. On these bikes, both windings share a common terminal, and there is NO path to ground (you can see this on the schematics). To properly measure the resistance of each winding you need to use that common terminal for each test. Goose
rjsteiner01 Posted February 20, 2014 Author #30 Posted February 20, 2014 Goose, You are correct, the manual is wrong & the coils do share a common tap. I thought this to be the fact when testing but had to confirm it with a good friend. My coil test good, I think all this will turn out to be nothing more than loose exhaust gaskets (causing the popping)and a very loose primary wire connection on the #4 cylinder (poor mpg and cold pipe at idle). I will continue to go through the electrical systems as the PO added some aftermarket items and it appears he did not have good wiring practices. Talking with George, he mentioned that I need to remove, open the ignition controller and place it in the oven @ 125F to dry it out. I would have figured these units to be "sealed" like all solid state devices? I will check it out this weekend. Wont be long before I reassemble the bike and try it out. I'll keep you posted.
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