stater magnet STUCK!

[Black wing]

so my starter clutch is toast and im trying to get my stator magnet off and it refuses to budge, tried heating it, tried tapping it under pressure, and i mean alot of pressure, i broke the 1/2" steel end off the gear puller reaming on it

[Snaggletooth]

Oh boy. Brings back memories. First thing a quality three way.puller is primary need. Grade 8 bolts to.mount it. A heavy thick grade 8 washer to protect the end of the crank so the internal threads don't get damaged. A 1/2 air impact is handy.. remember that these are not like a shaft on a car harmonic. They are a tapered shaft sp when it comes.loose it coming off fast and hard. Unless you have fast hands and catch cannon balls you will need to get some padding under the rotor and don't let of bounce off the floor.

 

Set up the puller and crank it down. I used a propane torch to warm up the rotor around the shaft. Tightenit some more.. if.you feel the need to hit something hit the head of.the puller shaft. Not the rotor..you can crack the magnets doing that.

 

 

Its a do and do.it again process with a rotor.that may have never been off in a few decades.

 

Truth be told i fought mine all afternoon one day. I frustration in left in and went to bed. I'd forgotten to.release the pressure on the puller when i quit.

 

I woke up the next morning and found the rotor about a foot away from they bike laying on the stack of packing quilts i had laid down to protect.it if i dropped it.

 

I can't say if the cooler overnight temps and caused

Contraction of the shaft after rotor had been heated or if the garage gremlins had fixed me up.

 

But it can be frustrating to get it off. You ain't the first one to bust a puller doing it. Hang in there.

 

Check with a local auto parts store that has a loaner program for tools if you have one in the area. These usually have quality puller kits.

 

From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

[Marcarl]

Took me 2 weeks to get mine to POP off,,, give it time and patience and constant trial and effort, and you will find the combination, but when it come off,,,, it COMES OFF!!!

[Flyinfool]

First off, do NOT use heat or pounding on the rotor, As mentioned you can permanently damage the magnets. Then You will be chasing a charging issue for the next year till you figure out it is the magnets causing weak output of the stator.

 

I tied a rope from the puller to the bike frame so that when it did POP it could not go anywhere. Most people just make a nice soft landing pad. when the flywheel does POP it does it with a BANG and it will cover some distance in the process. I don't know if I would want to try to catch it.

 

I used a big wrench on the hex of the flywheel to hold it steady and a 3 foot breaker bar plus some pipe, on the puller drive. My 1/2 inch drive impact wrench was laughed at by the flywheel. Wear safety glasses just in case one of the hardened parts of the puller shatter during the pull. Many cheap pullers, and some good ones, have been broken pulling off that flywheel. I have one that I bought 30 years ago back when they made tools strong to last.

 

A gear puller with the grip fingers will not get it done, I do not think any of them are strong enough. You need a good harmonic balance puller and you want to use grade 12.9 screws to attach it to the flywheel. Use high strength washers under the screw heads. the 3 attaching screws only should be finger tight, if you use a wrench on then then they already have some tensile load and will fail sooner while pulling. Make sure that you put a big enough high strength washer or other piece of steel to protect the threads of the crankshaft from the puller.

 

I used that big breaker bar and pulled till I was sure something was going to break and then went some more till it finally let go.

[bongobobny]

Yup!! Jeff is spot on! Heat and mechanical jarring (smacking it) are the two enemies of magnets...

[MiCarl]

I'm going to disagree with these guys. The magnet puts up with quite a bit of vibration and some heat in its native environment.

 

I like to use an impact wrench on the puller. The vibration will help break it loose.

 

I'd also be willing to heat the center boss, not out at the edge where the magnets are. Not red hot and not a lot of flame so it overheats the circumference.

 

The hit it with the impact again.

 

Then go have a cup of coffee. There is a good chance that it'll jump off as it cools.

 

You may have to do several cycles before it works free.

[Lassesand]

I fought for a long time with a flywheel on a Xz550. Finally I did put a pair of levers behind the flywheel and against the crancase. One tap on the puller and Bang the flywheel popped off!

 

 

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[Flyinfool]

I'm going to disagree with these guys. The magnet puts up with quite a bit of vibration and some heat in its native environment.

 

I like to use an impact wrench on the puller. The vibration will help break it loose.

 

I'd also be willing to heat the center boss, not out at the edge where the magnets are. Not red hot and not a lot of flame so it overheats the circumference.

 

The hit it with the impact again.

 

Then go have a cup of coffee. There is a good chance that it'll jump off as it cools.

 

You may have to do several cycles before it works free.

 

You can disagree, but you can not change the laws of physics.

 

The vibration that the magnets put up with during normal use is a sinusoidal wave form. That means it is a smooth motion back and forth. This will not bother the magnets. A sharp impact like a hammer blow can damage the magnets by causing the magnetic poles to try to align with the earths magnetic field. Remember the old science experiment in school? Where you take a nail, hold it in your hand and smack it with a hammer, it becomes a magnet. You are doing the same thing to the magnets in the flywheel when they see a sharp impact. You are changing their magnetic field.

 

The heat the the flywheel sees in normal use is not all that hot, it is well under 200°F at all times. The magnets start to loose power at 400°F. Heating the flywheel to 200°F will not have much if any effect on the fit of the taper, If it did there would be flywheels getting loose all of the time. Hot enough to make a difference, will conduct out toward the magnets possibly weakening them if they get to 400°F.

 

My impact wrench was not near enough torque to break mine loose. Your impact wrench may be stronger than mine or my flywheel may have been tighter than yours. I turned the puller screw a good half turn or more past where the impact could go before it POPed. If I were doing it again, I would start with the impact wrench, If it did not come I would get out the breaker bar and pipe.

 

The good news is;

The big difficulty is only if this is the first time the flywheel has ever come off, any time after it will be a lot easier. I do not know if the factory torques the bolt to more than the book calls for, or if it is just from being there for 25 years and is well seated.

[Black wing]

well i bought a larger puller and am hoping it wont break this time, and am thinking that its just cause its on a spare motor i want the starter gear from and has not been used in years the one in my DD will come off easyer

[yamihami]

Hi guys I thought I would chime in with a suggestion. Being an aircraft structures tech in the Canadian military I've been trained to try avoid damaging parts and this is what I would suggest to remove the flywheel. I would remove the center (crank)bolt and add a few rubber washers behind the shoulder of the bolt and loosely re install it, then install and use the puller on it. When the flywheel pops off it will stay loosened on the crank it won't fly off and no one gets hurt. What do you guys thing?

[MiCarl]

Hi guys I thought I would chime in with a suggestion. Being an aircraft structures tech in the Canadian military I've been trained to try avoid damaging parts and this is what I would suggest to remove the flywheel. I would remove the center (crank)bolt and add a few rubber washers behind the shoulder of the bolt and loosely re install it, then install and use the puller on it. When the flywheel pops off it will stay loosened on the crank it won't fly off and no one gets hurt. What do you guys thing?

 

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'd chase up a spare bolt to use just to make sure the one that holds it together didn't get damaged.

[Flyinfool]

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'd chase up a spare bolt to use just to make sure the one that holds it together didn't get damaged.

:sign yeah that:

Maybe even a slightly longer one to ensure full thread engagement. I would really hate to have the bolt partially engaged and end up stripping the crank from the extreme pressure that will be put on it. Since the puller will now be pushing on the head of the bolt trying to push the bolt into the crank.

[MiCarl]

:sign yeah that:

Maybe even a slightly longer one to ensure full thread engagement. I would really hate to have the bolt partially engaged and end up stripping the crank from the extreme pressure that will be put on it. Since the puller will now be pushing on the head of the bolt trying to push the bolt into the crank.

 

Maybe a longer bolt with a sleeve, so the sleeve is carrying the load instead of the threads.

[jasonm.]

from what I read here. Someone is trying to remove the FLYWHEEL. You must remove the center flywheel bolt. Then using a 3 point puller. The flywheel has 3 threaded holes for three bolts. Use high grade 10.9 8mm bolts. Often the ones with the puller are junk. Puller available from Sears and Auto parts stores. DO NOT put any bolt into the crankshaft. Your puller is to push down on the crank's end. If you wish to protect the crank's end, a washer is all you need. Snug the 3 bolts down. Make sure it's all EVEN. Now tighten the puller center, that is actually pushing.Once it gets "tight". Tap the puller with a 2 lb. sledge, Every 1/8 or 1/4 turn. It will simply pop off.. It took me less than 10 minutes to get mine off. Reinstallation requires all mating surfaces OIL FREE! Use brake clean or lacquer thinner. Do not get these cleaners on your the stator. Which is likely somewhere close. This I believe..is in the service manual

[yamihami]

Your right I'll be removing my flywheel to replace the starter clutch, as soon as I get my my parts on order. In the mean time what i was saying did not preclude the proper use of the right puller but I only wanted to add a measure of safety by using a bolt on the crank while pulling off the flywheel. And a longer bolt would in effect be better just to insure the threads won't be damaged of course the bolt is not torqued up it will be just cintched up enough the object is to have the flywheel pop off the boss. I've used this procedure to remove stuburn flywheels from outboards and never damaged anything .I ordered a starter clutch on ebay. I will be doing the mod that uses the starter clutch from an '05 its a better design. I have a lathe and a milling machine and all the tools and know how to do the job. Still I got butterflies in my stomach. I'll keep you all posted and I will post pics of all my steps. I figure my parts will be here within 3 weeks.