Electronically Challenged..............

[pick]

Hey all, Took wife to Chattanooga for her birthday Sunday. 2007 Midnight Venture, 11k, stock, no add ons. Monday morning headed to Aquarium, bike dies, wouldn't start, had to push start it. (wife didn't like that part!!!LOL) Took to auto store, he checked load test, said battery was too low to test and had 9-10 volts with bike running. Put new battery in, unplugged headlight fuse and we continued the day. Overnight I charged both batteries and we drove home, no headlight, about 115 miles. Got home checked battery voltage, 12.4? Hmmmm, still 12.4 after 100 plus miles. Take old battery to Auto Zone, it fails twice on load testing. Start bike, i get 12.4 digital volts with bike running? Neighbor comes over with high tech voltage meter, he gets 13.5~. Plug old battery into my charger, it reads 12.4 volts, but only charged at 40%. Let bike run at idle about 30 minutes, voltage dropped to 11.69. I am leaning that I might need a stator?

I WILL NOT use local dealer as he has f'd up my bike twice after working on it. Don't think r&r'ing the stator is outside my skill level except that I hear you have to do a bunch of soldering??? Not my best skill..............

Questions?

I have seen a lot of discussion on the HO stator, but is seems that if you don't replace the Rectifier with a HO, it's meaniless? And if you go to a HO rectifier, you have to change the wires?

Also, the HO stator runs more current through the already overloaded ignition switch and this causes other issues?

If I replace the stator, it would probably be better to replace rectifier too?

And not to mention, this all has to be done before Tuesday as we leave for Biketoberfest Wednesday morning...........

Any ideas?

[etcswjoe]

Before you replace the stator check all your connections:

1. Battery nice clean no corrosion

2. The rectifier plug no burnt no corroded pins and clean and shiny

3. The stator connecter under the battery box make sure it's not melted and the contacts are clen.

 

below is a little more indepth procedure.

 

Specs:

 

Output: 14 Volts / 300 Watts / @ 5000 rpm

Stator Coil Resistance: 0.279 ~ 0.341 Ohm @ 68º F

Stator AC Voltage Output: 100+ VAC* @ 4000 rpm

 

Specs form a good system.

 

DC voltage up to 20V

AC Voltage up to 100+V

 

 

A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts. If battery voltage is low charge it before testing the system, a weak or bad could cause false test results. Replace the battery if it will not come to a full charge from a battery charger.

 

start engine, turn off all electrical accessories measure charging voltage as rpm's are increased to 5000 rpm. Voltage should be 13.5 ~ 14.5 volts. Intermittent charging system problems could be caused by a bad connection.

 

If voltage is below 13.5 volts, it could be poor connections, bad wiring, faulty stator, and/or a faulty RR. Higher than 14.5 volts it's probably a bad RR and/or bad connection. Before digging into stator and rr check all connections, battery cables, RR connector, stator connector, solenoid connectors, and main fuse connection.

 

 

Stator Test

 

Engine and ignition off. Test at the RR connector, you get ot the RR connector by removing the two 10mm mounting bolts and lowering the RR. I had to remove the lower fairing to get to it disconnect the connector and inspect the terminal pins for tightness, corrosion, or damage.

 

Regulator/Rectifier location.

 

Check for battery voltage between connector terminals marked Bat+ and Gnd-.

 

Check the stator coil resistance by measuring at the three stator terminals of the connector. Set the meter to the lowest ohms scale and measure between pins 1~2, then pins 1~3, and finally between pins 2~3. All readings should be around .3 ohms. Some meters may not read accurately at this setting so don’t be too worried if you don’t get exactly .3 ohms. Next, set the meter to a higher ohms scale (>100 ohms), connect one meter lead to a good engine ground and use the other lead to test each stator terminal for a short to ground. All should read open (OL).

 

Check the AC output of the stator. Set your meter to read AC on the 100+ scale. Start the engine and read each pair of terminals in the same order as you did above, 1~2, 1~3, 2~3. At idele you should get 20~25 volts AC on each pair. Increase RPMS to 4000 RPM and read voltage on each pair again. Voltage @ 4000 RPM should be around 100~110 volts AC. All pairs should read equal voltages. If one pair reads much less than the others, or if all read smuch lower voltage than specified, the stator may be defective or there may be a connection problem at the stator connector where it connects to the main wiring harness. If you get questionable readings, you’ll need to retest at the stator connector located behind the side/center covers below the rider’s seat.

__________________

[pick]

Well, here is some of what I found out. I have a very cheap digital meter, so these numbers might not be quite so accurate. Battery is testing at 12.9

running, I get 12.3

I pulled the plug on the R/R and tested voltage, got 12.9, same as battery. My olms were at about .5 maybe but at a much higher temp than the 68 called for in manual. AC volts on all three at idle was 19, 58 at about 2k and 118 at a higher rev.

All three were consistent in the readings. Tested saw no definite shorts.

With he correct AC current coming out of the stator, I am leaning on the RR being bad? Does this make sense?

[Flyinfool]

There is a way to test parts of the RR.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297

[GeorgeS]

Well, here is some of what I found out. I have a very cheap digital meter, so these numbers might not be quite so accurate. Battery is testing at 12.9

running, I get 12.3

I pulled the plug on the R/R and tested voltage, got 12.9, same as battery. My olms were at about .5 maybe but at a much higher temp than the 68 called for in manual. AC volts on all three at idle was 19, 58 at about 2k and 118 at a higher rev.

All three were consistent in the readings. Tested saw no definite shorts.

With he correct AC current coming out of the stator, I am leaning on the RR being bad? Does this make sense?

 

If you checked the voltage " At " the large white plug, Input side of plug that indicates the Alternator is OK. ( Your AC readings look good )

 

Did you check on the Output side of the large Plug ??

 

Its possible that ONE, of the three wires is not good " thru " the plug. ????

 

Did you open the plug ( pull apart ) and Inspect the male and female pins """

 

All three phases, have to get to the plug on the R/R unit.

 

--------------

 

If so, yes, probably, you are looking like a bad R/R unit. Also, check your battery cables, be sure the black one, is going to a good ground, follow the wire, to grounding point and check it. ( this is just a " maby " )

 

Also, good idea to find the Starter Solinoid, and check for Loose connections there.

 

Another check, is Charge the battery, and without starting engine, Key ON, Does EVERYTHING Else on the bike work OK ???? If any other system is " not " working, might be a SHORT, drawing down the battery.

 

Have you checked under the front fairing, for any sign of wireing cables, being Pinched OFF as the bars move back and forth.

[Jayceesfolly]

I put a HO stator in my 89 VR and at the same time added a Shindgen R/R. I wired the new R/R directly to the battery and bypassed all the wiring in the Venture wiring harness. The output goes directly to the battery and in effect monitors the state of the battery which is what you want. Consistent voltage. I have had this setup for about 6 months now and have had no problems with it. The white wires go directly to the stator and the red and black go to the battery. Very simple hookup. I also have a AGM battery which is three years old and still works great.

I also have a digital voltage gauge to monitor the voltage from the battery and it never changes the reading. Always stays steady at 13.7 volts at all RPMs. The stator will also charge at a lower RPM than the standard Yamma one. My stator charges at an idle now.

 

Jim

[pick]

Ok, an update to my post so after determining that we had no open circuits and correct ac voltage coming from the stator, I borrowed a good R/R from a friend and installed it. Plugged it in, started the bike and voltage at the battery was 13.9-14.1 so looks as if it was the RR. Unplugged the replacement and installed my old one and it read 13.89?????? WTH? Well, we watched it for about five minutes and as soon as the RR warmed up, it just shut down and voltage dropped to 12.4. So apparently, the old RR is bad, as soon as it gets warm, it shuts down. Gonna order a new RR, just got to find the best deal and thanks to all who helped walk me through my ever challenged self! This forum is still the best!

[Flyinfool]

Love it when a plan comes together.

[Squidley]

Chris,

 

FWIW, buy another stock Yamaha R/R as it will be a simple swap. I went through a bunch of headache with 1 of my '99's and ended up just buying a new stock one and it worked like it was supposed to.

[Guest]

Ok, an update to my post so after determining that we had no open circuits and correct ac voltage coming from the stator, I borrowed a good R/R from a friend and installed it. Plugged it in, started the bike and voltage at the battery was 13.9-14.1 so looks as if it was the RR. Unplugged the replacement and installed my old one and it read 13.89?????? WTH? Well, we watched it for about five minutes and as soon as the RR warmed up, it just shut down and voltage dropped to 12.4. So apparently, the old RR is bad, as soon as it gets warm, it shuts down. Gonna order a new RR, just got to find the best deal and thanks to all who helped walk me through my ever challenged self! This forum is still the best!

 

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Yamaha&partnumber=4XY-81960-00-00&x=95&y=14

 

Heres the cheapest that I could find but dont plan on it arriving before next wed.

[VentureFar]

I agree. This forum is the best.

And, thank you to all of you that so kindly help all of us!

VentureFar...

[Eck]

Pick,

If you can not get your bike going in time, for your departure date/time, let me know and I will ride my GW to your place and you can use it to do your ride if you want. I will need to borrow a vehicle to get back to Huntsville in. You can stop in Huntsville on your return trip home and drop the bike off and pick up your vehicle..

 

 

Hey bud, its all I can think of at this time..

 

 

 

OR..

 

 

You can drive your cage to my place and pick up my GW for your trip and leave your cage here and take your keys with you for I don't need your cage.

When your done with your trip, just come back to my place and drop off my GW and pick up your cage to go back home in.

 

Either way you have an offer to use my Goldwing so you do not miss your trip..

If you need help soldering... give me a ring.. I can take a ride over to help you. I have three soldering irons and lots of flux and solder..

 

Eck

[pick]

Eck, as usual, you're a true friend! I have a rectifier I can use till Yamaha gets mine in next week, but thanks for the offer of the GW!!!! Red beard took the one off his 99 and let me use that one until I can get a new one. He cannot go to Bikeweek so all is good. Hope things ate good with you and Konnie and hopefully we'll all get together for a ride soon!!!

Thank care my friend!

 

Chris