Rear Valve Cover Leaking

[seeing]

Well I tried to fix a leak around rear valve cover on 99RSV. Cover was hard to get off with little clearance and working on my knees did not help. Took my time cleaned the cover the gasket seems O.K. so I must have used the wrong sealer. I used permatex in groove where gasket goes in and had I stopped for sec. when after putting gasket on it would fall out I should have known that was wrong. But with help of my wife we got it back on and it looked like it was fitting all around. So off for a short ride to come back and find out more of a leak than before. Seems to be seeping just behind the water connection hose in middle so now question do I take it to shop let them fix it or try again and use different sealer. If the gasket had stayed up it might have worked O.K. but with it trying to fall off not good. Also the valve cover was hard to get off wonder how they do it in shop with so little clearance as you don't want to mess up new gasket putting it back on?? Any help appreciated.

[Marcarl]

You didn't say that you used a new gasket.

So my advise is to get a new gasket, and new seals for around the bolts.

Clean the cover well with a small tool to get all the residue out of the grooves, put in a very minimal amount of sticky stuff to hold it in place (silicone, permatex, what ever),seat the gasket well into the cover, let it sit for about 30 minutes and then work the cover back into place. Not a lot of room, but can be accomplished with a bit of patience.

[Flyinfool]

You didn't say that you used a new gasket.

So my advise is to get a new gasket, and new seals for around the bolts.

Clean the cover well with a small tool to get all the residue out of the grooves, put in a very minimal amount of sticky stuff to hold it in place (silicone, permatex, what ever),seat the gasket well into the cover, let it sit for about 30 minutes and then work the cover back into place. Not a lot of room, but can be accomplished with a bit of patience.

:sign yeah that:

 

You put a 15 year old rubber gasket back in that was already leaking????

 

Might as well get two gaskets, if the rear one dried out enough to leak, the front is not far behind it. I would also agree with Marcarl, replace the rubber seals on all of the valve cover bolts.

Hey it should go easier this time, you now experienced.....

[KeithR]

I have a slight leak as well......I checked with the Yamaha shop and it is suppose to be a 3 hr or more job. Not a $300 leak yet for me.

 

Keith

[Rick Haywood]

when they start leaking it is time for a valve adjustment anyway so for a little bit more you can get both gaskets replaced and valves adjusted.

[saddlebum]

A little bit of gasket eliminator/gasket maker (just a very thin amount) on the top surface of the grommets and were the grommet contacts the valve cover helps stop oil sweating around the grommets. Also agree with previous statements, replace the gaskets and grommets its worth it.

[V7Goose]

I always recommend replacing these gaskets when doing the valve check simply because it is such a huge job to get the covers off if they start leaking! It is just not worth taking the chance with old gaskets, even if they still seem soft and pliable. Using any kind of a thick sealer with old gaskets here will actually make a leak much more likely.

 

These gaskets are thick soft rubber, and the cover bolts use very LOW torque, so they do not distort much. That is another reason why it is critical that the gaskets be in 'good' condition. While no sealer is needed to prevent leaking, something is definitely needed to hold the gasket in place on the cover when putting it back together. I generally use a small amount of thin contact cement haphazardly spread around the cover. It is not necessary to be equally spread over the entire contact surface, just in enough places to ensure the gasket does not pop loose and roll off the cover anywhere while putting it in place. But you MUST make sure you use a THIN contact cement for this, not something like Goop. Just quckly smear a thin bead inside the groove, place the gasket in place and push solidly all the way around with your fingers to spread the cement out, then pull off the gasket and let it dry for 5-10 minutes before sticking it on for good.

 

Even with the cement holding the gasket, it is still real important to carefully inspect the entire edge of the head/gasket/cover joint with a little flashlight before you put the bolts in, just to make sure the gasket really is in perfect position.

Goose

Edited October 8, 2013 by V7Goose
typo

[seeing]

As for the valve adjustment this bike has about 62,000 my first Yamaha so can you tell me if that is enough miles for adjustment bike runs great. The inserts that hold valve cover on were not seeping or leaking any it was at bottom of gasket along the rear side. My goof up first time to not check here as to what to use to hold gasket and wife and I had a lot of problems getting it in place so we probably caused the leak now which is just behind where the water hose goes into top between the rear valve cover. New gasket tomorrow will try one more time. Two questions is there any way to make putting it back on easier and on right side the two screws that hold the chrome cover on is there any easy way to get front one on. I dropped it have to get another one it went to who knows where we never found it. My fingers are way too big and my wife's are just like me old hands. We are about 60 miles from shop so was going to try one more time to put gasket on. We lol did change the place of leakage from bottom rear to beside the water intake hose maybe this time we will get it right. Thanks to everyone for their advise. Seeing

[V7Goose]

You are way over due for the valve check - schedule calls for every 27,000 miles. If you have the cover off for ANY reason, it makes no sense not to check them at that time, even if they are not due. Getting the covers off is just too big a job to not take advantage of the situation.

Goose

[skydoc_17]

Hey Seeing,

This topic of Valve Adjustment was recently touched on in a previous thread. Here's the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82148

 

You may find this thread interesting.

I also wanted to mention that this time of the year, I loan out my shop Valve Shim Adjustment Kit for the cost of the shipping (and Ins.) each way only. I keep the Valve Cover Gaskets in stock, and I ask that you purchase these gaskets from me. I can ship the Valve Shim Kit and the gaskets to anyone that contacts me.

I personally would change BOTH of the gaskets, and do the Valve Shim Check/Adjustment

At the same time. When you consider that a damaged valve would require that the engine be removed, and the cylinder head be removed, a set of gaskets and the Valve Shim Adjustment sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me.

Earl

[seeing]

Well new gasket in hand now waiting till I am rested to redo the job. This is a simple question what king of spark plug wrench do you need to get plugs out. I have several but all too big to fit down into the hole where plugs are so have to buy a new different one. Also about this valve adjustment is there anywhere that has a step by step process to do that job. Still wish someone would do a video of these jobs so we can look at each process as it is being done. I think someone would make some money if they produced one for sale sign me up for the first one. I had one for Gold Wing which was great take computer out to shop follow directions job done right. Guess I have more than one question another came to mind the front cover you have to take the braces off what size tool do I need for that job. Thanks in advance not sure anyone is near me we live near Lake Martin central Alabama that could help an old friend that use to do my work has passed on and dam I miss him a great friend and retired mechanic. Seeing

[muaymendez1]

I just did my valves. The technical data is awesome when you have any size shim you need. You measure go on the chart refer to what size and change if needed.

I went the simple way. Intake valves tolerances are. .11 - .15mm. Exhaust are .16 - .20mm

I didn't have feeler gauges that entire spectrum

I had .10 .127.15 .178 and.20

I measured intakes. A few .10 wouldn't fit so I went down 2 sizes 270 to 260 if

.10 fit but .127 didn't I would go down 1 size shim.

 

I got them all within spec on the loose side. This takes more guess work but I only had to go back abd change 2 shims twice for being too loose.

I know there is a write up and ive done this 3 times now so if you need further assistance pm me.

 

You don't want it so loose that the larger guage feels no drag but you don't want the smallest guage to be too tight.

 

 

I ACTUALLY ONLY HAD TO USE 2 OR 3KIT SHIMS. Most of them were just moved around.

You will need some coolant, I did not empty my radiator but I spilled maybe 6oz of coolant.

Good time to check your intake runners for cracks.

There is a coolant tube on cyl 4 that is in the way and won't let the valve cover come off. You will need to remove it. In my case it broke while pulling on it. Undo the clamp abd see if they will move before starting the job.

[Walnutz]

how much is the kit you have?? and where do you get a complete kit for the engine and trans and carbs hell I need some carb boots tooo ???