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Sealing a plywood trailer deck


ragtop69gs

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I bought an Aluminum snowmobile trailer (open deck) that I'm replacing the deck on, using 5/8" marine plywood. This trailer will be used to haul motorcycles, no snowmobiles. I am sealing the bottom side with a 2 part epoxy but it will be to slippery to use on the top and am wondering what is a good topside sealer to use ? Prefer something that doesn't cost an arm and leg like the epoxy does.

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Don't know the cost but paint departments sell a traction type paint used on garage floors or entrance steps for homes. I have used some on my porch and entrance steps and has served very well for a number of years now. :080402gudl_prv:

Larry

 

The problem with most of those types of coatings is that they are very brittle, on a plywood deck it will crack when it flexes.

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I recently redid my sled trailer using pressure treated plywood. Can't say whether it was a good idea or not, but I also sealed it with something like Thompson sealer because that had worked so well on an my older trailer. That trailer has a 30 year old deck that is still functional (I resealed it every year or so). I recently sealed a wood deck using a newer product on the market which seals clear similar to Thompson water seal but is a thicker white liquid when applied and the claim is that it only needs to be applied every 3 years, unlike the Thompson sealer.

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I recently redid my sled trailer using pressure treated plywood. Can't say whether it was a good idea or not, but I also sealed it with something like Thompson sealer because that had worked so well on an my older trailer. That trailer has a 30 year old deck that is still functional (I resealed it every year or so). I recently sealed a wood deck using a newer product on the market which seals clear similar to Thompson water seal but is a thicker white liquid when applied and the claim is that it only needs to be applied every 3 years, unlike the Thompson sealer.

 

New pressure treated plywood is very corrosive to aluminum, steel and fasteners. It doesn't take long to ruin an aluminum sled trailer, from pitting. You need a protective barrier (Vinyl tape) or something to isolate the P/T wood from the aluminum, also the screws need to be rated for P/T wood or they will rot away in a few short years. :backinmyday:

Edited by ragtop69gs
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New pressure treated plywood is very corrosive to aluminum, steel and fasteners. It doesn't take long to ruin an aluminum sled trailer, from pitting. You need a protective barrier (Vinyl tape) or something to isolate the P/T wood from the aluminum, also the screws need to be rated for P/T wood or they will rot away in a few short years.

 

Thanks for this info Jay.

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marine plywood, it will adhere to the smooth side, never tried it on the bottom.

 

I will say we reskinned a buddy's trailer with sheet steel , added some angle stiffeners and stitch welded it to the frame. Very solid, he bead blasted and primed it then had had bedliner sprayed top and bottom. It looks very nice but admittedly his costs grew and in the end he wished he had used treated decking. I would prefer 5/4 treated deck boards to plywood for cost and maintenance on steel frame. Aluminum I would go to sheets of aluminum and weld them on, bed liner will stick to that all day.

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marine plywood, it will adhere to the smooth side, never tried it on the bottom.

 

I will say we reskinned a buddy's trailer with sheet steel , added some angle stiffeners and stitch welded it to the frame. Very solid, he bead blasted and primed it then had had bedliner sprayed top and bottom. It looks very nice but admittedly his costs grew and in the end he wished he had used treated decking. I would prefer 5/4 treated deck boards to plywood for cost and maintenance on steel frame. Aluminum I would go to sheets of aluminum and weld them on, bed liner will stick to that all day.

 

I looked at aluminum diamond plate first, :yikes: about fell off the chair when I saw the cost, then add welding to that :doh: That's why I went with the plywood.

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