Installed Earl's Clutch Kit - problem

[Bwhite]

Mechanic friend and I installed the kit following Tarter Terror's instructions, had the wire ring, two narrow rings, and the half plate left over. No other parts left on the floor. But now a hard clutch lever (solid - no pull) and bike will roll when in gear. HELP? I have read a similar posting with this problem, just want to reaffirm what to do when we take it back apart and put it back together.

 

Thanks in advance for help.

Brian White

Mankato, MN

[foyerboy]

Call Earl, he'll walk you through it. This is a simple DIY mod.....

[Bob Myers]

try bleeding the pressure off the slave cylinder, via the bleeder valve

[Yammer Dan]

Put plates in wrong. Didn't line up notches.

[steamer]

I believe you don't have the index points (dots) lined up right. Earl is the go to guy on this.

[dfitzbiz]

Check the clutch plates first to make sure they are in the correct orientation then check to insure that the splines on the pressure plate mate up with the clutch basket teeth. If that didn't work contact Earl!

[steamer]

couldn't remember if they were dots or notches.

[dfitzbiz]

Dots on the basket, notches on the discs.

[MikeWa]

The pressure plate must be rotated until it drops into place. You should be able to start the bolts easily by hand.

 

Mike

[Bwhite]

We'll check orientation and reinstall.

Thanks again,

Brian White

 

Anyone going to Algona IA rally next 4th?

[Squidley]

Brian,

 

Just sent you a PM , give me a call, the pressure plate is probably not on right.

[Marcarl]

maybe you got the washer in the wrong place.

[Condor]

Remove your pressure plate again. Place a finger on the push rod and gently squeeze the clutch lever. If the rod moves, your problem is in the clutch basket, and as previously stated take the basket apart and recheck your assembly. If the rod doesn't move it's in the slave to master, or if you've removed the rods and ball it may not be reassembled correctly.

[skydoc_17]

A Few Tips For A Good, Clean Install

There are basically three things that have caused a bit of trouble when doing the clutch spring upgrade weather it be the PCW upgrade or the Kit that I offer with the PCW Spring, or the EBC Springs and the replacement FULL friction disc.

The first is that you NEED to drain the engine oil IF you are NOT going to do this project on the SIDESTAND. IF you have a Trike, or a Side Car, you WILL be draining the engine oil.

The next is, when you have removed the friction discs and steel clutch plates, there will be a steel clutch plate in the rear of the clutch basket held in place with a retaining wire. Many people have thought they were looking at the bottom of the clutch basket, when in fact, there is still one steel clutch plate and the HALF FRICTION DISC still in the clutch basket. You cut the retaining wire and discard it, you remove the last steel clutch plate, you then remove the half friction disc and the spacing washers and DISCARD THESE 3 ITEMS.

After soaking ALL the new full clutch friction discs in engine oil, you start with the new full friction disc, then a steel clutch plate, then a friction disc, etc. (you get the point)

The last thing that has caused problems is the pressure plate and the clutch basket have a "Dot" on them for alignment purposes, Many people miss this and install the pressure plate clocked improperly. When the dots are aligned, the pressure plate will be in direct contact with the last friction disc installed in the stack of friction discs and steel clutch plates. The new Clutch Diaphragm Spring goes on next located in the centering ring and the bolt plate and bolts go in after that. The clutch cover is installed with the new gasket provided in the kit. Please remember to refill the engine oil. And replace the running board and brake lever. You are now ready to take a ride. Here is the link from the Second Gen. Tech. section for the install of a replacement Clutch Diaphragm Spring and full friction disc.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518

If you have any other questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me.

Earl

[V7Goose]

The pressure plate must be rotated until it drops into place. You should be able to start the bolts easily by hand.

 

Mike

This IS the propblem, as others have pointed out. Even when you think the dots are all aligned, it is still possible to have the pressure plate teeth hang up on the edge of the basket teeth. Just loosen the bolts and wiggle it until it seats properly in the teeth grooves. It is not a big deal, and fairly easy to do on assembly, so do not consider it a big mistake.

Goose

[Squidley]

Just a quick update...

 

I talked with Brain and his mechanic and I believe that we have it tackled. They are putting the cover back on and taking it for a ride. Brian will come on and let us know if it was successful, which I'm confident it will be.

[Bwhite]

Squidley helped diagnose the issue, which was the actuating piston at the spring wasn't seated in quite right. Clutch seems to work better now than it has since I've owned the bike. I looking forward to taking it out for a longer ride now, BUT OH NO! I started to rain and there's snow flakes in the mix.