playboy Posted October 3, 2013 #1 Posted October 3, 2013 Hey guys Art is having a problem getting his clutch to bleed after replacing his lines. He is trying to get ready to leave to come to the ARKLATX OK M&E tomorrow his screen name is "arharbi " and his number is in his profile if someone could give him a call.
Marcarl Posted October 3, 2013 #2 Posted October 3, 2013 Sorry, that name doesn't want to come up under the members list.
Marcarl Posted October 3, 2013 #3 Posted October 3, 2013 OK so I called Aharbi, but there was no answer. Tell him to slightly pump the master and at the same time tap on the end of the master where the line attaches. Do this until no more air bubbles come up, then bleed the lines as normal.
ragtop69gs Posted October 3, 2013 #4 Posted October 3, 2013 OK so I called Aharbi, but there was no answer. Tell him to slightly pump the master and at the same time tap on the end of the master where the line attaches. Do this until no more air bubbles come up, then bleed the lines as normal. Ya got to tickle the clutch lever while looking in the resivour , air bubbles will come out the small hole when you slightly work the lever, do this til no more air then bled as usual.
Yammer Dan Posted October 4, 2013 #5 Posted October 4, 2013 When he gets all he can out pull handle in against handlebar and tie it there. Leave lid loose and it will bleed itself overnight.
Snaggletooth Posted October 4, 2013 #6 Posted October 4, 2013 OK. I noticed in your other thread you installed new speed bleeder while changing lines. From my experience speed bleeders are a pita with dry lines and trying to bleed the system. The valves in them work great with fluid in them but not very well with only air. The don't check the reverse flow at all with no fluid. About the same effect as an open bleeder. Try popping the old bleeder back in or open and close the speed bleeder like a regular bleeder valve. Other than that fresh lines are almost always a pita to get filled and functional. Hope you make your ride. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.
PGunn Posted October 4, 2013 #8 Posted October 4, 2013 One other thing to do if he hasn't already is turn the handle bar all the way to the right this will level the clutch reservoir and allow the trapped air to come out and you can also top off the fluid to the full marks inside the reservoir.
aharbi Posted October 4, 2013 #9 Posted October 4, 2013 Tiny bubbles in the line, make me unhappy, make me feel cryin. Tiny bubble make me HOT all over... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlCiDEXuxxA]Picture Don Ho singing it[/ame]. Perhaps too old for most of you. My clutch problem was due to the tiny bubbles. Not sure which suggestion fixed it. I did all three and it worked. Let it sit all night with the clutch lever pulled (velcro wire tied to the handle bar) and the reservoir cover off, gently jiggle the clutch lever, tapped the banjo bolt at the reservoir with the back of a screw driver. It pumped-up on the first try. Of course the brakes worked before, but must of needed bled. Because now I have POWER BRAKES, do stainless steel lines really make that much of a difference? or was it the soft words of encouragement I uttered to it last evening? For me this was a lesson in humility. Where you think you know what you are doing and something this minor knocks you off guard. Also a lesson in appreciation, an appreciation for the folks on this forum so willing to help, to share their knowledge. I received calls last night and this morning from literally all across this country AND the country north of us. Thanks to all, much appreciated.
Snaggletooth Posted October 4, 2013 #10 Posted October 4, 2013 SS lines make a Huge difference in the feel. The first line i changed was the right front. Swapped line, bled it out and grabbed the lever. I thought something was wrong. Lever barely moved. I got used to the hard feel real easy. Much better control. You'll like them. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.
ToyOdie Posted October 4, 2013 #11 Posted October 4, 2013 Marcarl had it right. I have speed bleeders on all my hydraulics. When you start bleeding open the bleed nipple and pump the lever. It might not look like anything is happening, but some (very little) fluid is going it the line. Then close the nipple and pump slowly. You have to tap on the banjo fitting at the back of the reservoir as you slowly pump the lever. You should see very small bubbles coming out. It might take some time, but once you have enough fluid in the line (no more bubbles) you can start to bleed from the nipple normally.
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