How to remove wheel bearings

[Cowboy]

2004 RSV with 100,000 miles

Trying to replace Front & Rear wheel bearings.

 

How do you remove the wheel bearings?

 

Does anyone have a tool that I could borrow, that will remove them?

[playboy]

Have you removed the stainless rotor covers ? I have heard they could be a problem to get off.

[LilBeaver]

I read a lot of claims of people using dremels, old bearings, etc etc. What worked for me was going to to three different auto parts stores until ONE had the correct tool in stock. I had to ask for it by name, then I had to point at it in a picture AND THEN the manager had to come over and be talked into going into the back and looking for it... Sure enough, they had one in stock for me to rent [for free].

 

The tool you want is called a "Blind hole bearing puller" and the slide hammer to go with it. [Pictured here]

 

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/4581_1684.jpg

 

To seat the new bearings, I used a socket to tap it into place, making sure to provide even pressure all around (block of wood over the back end of the socket and tap it in with a rubber mallet). I will have to go look in the garage to see what size socket I needed -- I bought one special for this task and sized it up perfectly so that the socket would ONLY be in contact with the outer race.

 

Now that I have done the job once, next time will be much less frustrating.

There is a ridge on the inside of the part where the bearings are seated, that will not allow the bearings to go on any further, which I did not know about until I had the old ones out -- hence NOT being able to knock the bearings out from the opposite side...

 

Also, it is helpful to have the proper tools to get the rotors off (an appropriately sized torx or hex socket attachment [depending on what year your bike is] is a good place to start).

 

[Guest]

I have a blind hole puller and let me tell you....if that bearing dont want to come out and at 100k it may not want to cooperate, then you will have a fight on your hands. I had to cut out 1 bearing with a dremel. Now, when you are ready to install the new bearings put the bearing in the freezer overnight and install it immediately after taking it out. It does help....

[djh3]

Some heat from a propane torch in the area may ease the grip on the bearing some. I would try with just the puller first.

[Cowboy]

I read a lot of claims of people using dremels, old bearings, etc etc. What worked for me was going to to three different auto parts stores until ONE had the correct tool in stock. I had to ask for it by name, then I had to point at it in a picture AND THEN the manager had to come over and be talked into going into the back and looking for it... Sure enough, they had one in stock for me to rent [for free].

 

The tool you want is called a "Blind hole bearing puller" and the slide hammer to go with it. [Pictured here]

 

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/4581_1684.jpg

 

To seat the new bearings, I used a socket to tap it into place, making sure to provide even pressure all around (block of wood over the back end of the socket and tap it in with a rubber mallet). I will have to go look in the garage to see what size socket I needed -- I bought one special for this task and sized it up perfectly so that the socket would ONLY be in contact with the outer race.

 

Now that I have done the job once, next time will be much less frustrating.

There is a ridge on the inside of the part where the bearings are seated, that will not allow the bearings to go on any further, which I did not know about until I had the old ones out -- hence NOT being able to knock the bearings out from the opposite side...

 

Also, it is helpful to have the proper tools to get the rotors off (an appropriately sized torx or hex socket attachment [depending on what year your bike is] is a good place to start).

 

Which Auto Parts Store ended up having?

Not that means they all have just a place to start if it was a chain store, NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, O'rielys

 

Thanks for the all the responses, another reason to be apart of this great group!

I will be looking for that tool.

[LilBeaver]

I have a blind hole puller and let me tell you....if that bearing dont want to come out and at 100k it may not want to cooperate, then you will have a fight on your hands. [...]

Glad I was not the only one that had a little difficulty getting these things out...

 

Which Auto Parts Store ended up having?

Not that means they all have just a place to start if it was a chain store, NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto, O'reilly

[...]

 

The only places I tried were the main chain stores. My final stop was at O'Reilly [it helped that they had a big poster that pictured the tools that were available for rental -- so I was able to point to it and argue with the employee, and eventually the manager]. My first stop was at AutoZone -- as it turns out, they DID have one, they just did not know it [i went back for something a few weeks later and it came up in conversation with one of the employees].

 

+1 to sticking the new bearings in the freezer! Woohoo for thermal contraction!

 

[Condor]

I bought my set from Harbor Freight. Made in China but I don't plan on wearing it out.... I bought it on sale for around $30 bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

 

[Cowboy]

Thanks to all.

Found the tool at local Auto Zone. The local Oriley's did not have one. Looks like you just need to check with your individual Auto Parts or do like Condor and buy one.

Thanks again.

[RedRider]

As much as I hate to admit it, but when I took my forks to the dealer to have them rebuilt (with Progressives), I also took the wheels to have the bearings changed.

 

I know I could have done it, just didn't have the tools or the time. Got to keep the dealers in business somehow. I'm sure not doing it by buying new bikes.

 

RR

[Gray Ghost]

A good addition to using heat for a stubborn bearing is a product by Loctite, forget the actual name, but it cools down an area quite rapidly. Spray that just on the bearing after heating the area and it should loosen up even more for you.

[M61A1MECH]

Here is the stuff Gray Ghost is talking about.

 

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/loctite-freeze-release-7008.htm

 

Interesting.

[Black Owl]

From personal experience I know that when all else fails, a RBFH will usually do the trick.

[Cowboy]

Picked up Blind Hole Bearing Remover from Autozone.

All wheel bearings came in mail on Friday

Saturday I removed the wheel bearings with the Blind Hole Bearing Remover and a plumbing torch to heat the area up prior to pulling out.

Sunday after new bearings stayed in freezer all night I put the new bearings in.

Rear wheel I had to use a 2" PVC pipe to set the bearing.

 

Removed the rear shock and linkage and greased all the bearings in the swing arm and shock linkage mounts.

 

Then I tackled the head bearings. I would like to say that it is a Pain in the butt and the average shade tree mechanic like me should have had help.

Removing the lower bearing from the steering arm took a longtime surly they make a tool to remove. I got it but not easy. Then to remove the upper & lower inner tube bearing race needed heat and the correct punch. should of had four hands to make it easier.

 

Then to put the bearings back on I had taken the old bearing and ground out the inside so I could use it as a bearing driver, again four hands would have been nice.

 

After I packed the bearings and re-installed the steering head, I torqued it down using the wrench that dingy sold me. Torqued well over recommended then moved around to make sure bearings seated properly. I then loosened the bearing back off and the re torqued to recommended torque 37ft-lb.

 

Waiting on the front forks to be rebuilt by Traxion Suspension. Then I will reassemble the front end.

 

What a mess in the garage with all the parts of the bike lying around.

 

Thanks again to this wonderful site with all the great people and advise.