Carb Joints/Manifolds needed

[Condor]

After removing the carbs on the '99, the #4 'joint'....Y speak.... looks really bad. Worse cracked manifold I've ever seen. Tried to locate something on eBay....nada... Searched the Pinwall store.... nada... So wondered if anyone here might have one in his stash that I could buy?? They sell new for around $50 bucks each, and if I strike out here I'll go that route. Just trying to save a few bucks. This rusted tank project is costing a ton.....

[Snaggletooth]

Jack. IM not at a computer right now to check numbers but are the '99's the same as MKI manifolds? If so i can fix ya up.

 

From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

[Snaggletooth]

Never mind. Figured it out. Not even close.

 

From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

[Condor]

Never mind. Figured it out. Not even close.

 

From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

 

Yep, that's the problem. I have a set of 1stGen's in my stash just because.... With 6/1st's in the stable??? Thanks for the thought.... I noticed a lot of back firing while in Cody, and I think I've finally found the reason. It musta been sucking air like a marathoner at the 26 mile mark...

[Dragonslayer]

I've had good results using liquid electrical tape/rubber with brush applicator to paint over the cracks. Seems to repair them without having to replace them.

[Condor]

I've had good results using liquid electrical tape/rubber with brush applicator to paint over the cracks. Seems to repair them without having to replace them.

 

They'll probably hold up just fine. I went ahead and ordered a new set for the '99RSV. After removing the carbs I took a closer look at the joints and they show'd a lot of cracking, even around the upper lip where the carb clamp sits. When this fuel system rebuild is done I don't want to ever do it again. So everything will be replaced from the tank to the head.

[seeing]

My 99 RSV I noticed yesterday had cracks below carbs I thought it might be insulation around the feed tubes from carb to engine but it must what you are talking about. How hard is it to repair that I know tank comes off have been that far but is it worth doing or having a shop do it? Engine runs great now but I am guessing as bad as the cracks are I am going to start to have problems. Any info would be appreciated. email seeing48@yahoo.com Thanks Larry Collins

[Condor]

My 99 RSV I noticed yesterday had cracks below carbs I thought it might be insulation around the feed tubes from carb to engine but it must what you are talking about. How hard is it to repair that I know tank comes off have been that far but is it worth doing or having a shop do it? Engine runs great now but I am guessing as bad as the cracks are I am going to start to have problems. Any info would be appreciated. email seeing48@yahoo.com Thanks Larry Collins

 

 

If mine didn't have the cracking around the top lip I would have tried some type of non-spray rubberized product like Plasti-Dip and brushed it on. It does come in a spray can but would cause a mess. That way you wouldn't need to tear the bike apart and remove the carbs. Believe me it's a PITA... If you have a shop do it prepare to empty your wallet. Since I already had the carbs off I went ahead and popped for a new set. $150 bucks for the set of four joints from my local Y dealer... and no I don't plan on lighting up...

[Yammer Dan]

Guess I should check my 99. I was looking before you guys figured they wouldn't work. I think I have a set somewhere for 1st Gen.(Didn't find yet) Is there very many parts that will interchange between !st and 2nd? Could be interesting.

[Condor]

Guess I should check my 99. I was looking before you guys figured they wouldn't work. I think I have a set somewhere for 1st Gen.(Didn't find yet) Is there very many parts that will interchange between !st and 2nd? Could be interesting.

 

Highway pegs, trailer hitch ball, tranny gears, clutch slave, to name a few... You gonna need to build a whole new stash of 2ndGen parts....

[Dragonslayer]

If mine didn't have the cracking around the top lip I would have tried some type of non-spray rubberized product like Plasti-Dip and brushed it on. It does come in a spray can but would cause a mess. That way you wouldn't need to tear the bike apart and remove the carbs. Believe me it's a PITA... If you have a shop do it prepare to empty your wallet. Since I already had the carbs off I went ahead and popped for a new set. $150 bucks for the set of four joints from my local Y dealer... and no I don't plan on lighting up...

Didn't mean to over state the obvious to the well informed but since we are on this subject, I thought I would share my pm response to Seeing's pm inquire to me .... for those that did not know.

 

Yes the intake boots/joint/manifolds.. rubber elbows (whatever you want to call them) are the intake manifolds for the air/fuel mixture to the cylinders. Them being air tight is critical for the engine performance. Air leakage through penetrating cracks as well as loose air seals under the clamp on top and mating surface on bottom can have a dramatic adverse effect on how the engine runs.

 

The cracks that show up in them is similar to rubber dry rot cracks on tires and start on the outer surface. Over a period of time they worsen and when they expand to the point that the crack penetrates all the way through the wall of the boot, the engine starts sucking outside air through the crack.

 

Although replacing the boots is not a difficult job, if you can find them or afford to pay yamaha what they want for them, I've found that applying the Liquid Rubber product with the brush applicator (about $4.00) is an easier, cheaper and near permanent solution. The liquid rubber covers, fills the cracks and bonds with the rubber the boots are made of, sealing and preventing the cracks from enlarging over time.

 

The upside is much, much cheaper,

 

A lot less labor intensive, usually you can apply on the cracks without having to disassemble the bike and remove the carbs to replace the boots , paint it on in place and only takes a couple of minutes to do with about a ten minute dry time.

 

The down side is visually the painted on rubber is not as smooth as the original factory formed rubber. But, It is hard to even notice it (if you use the matching black version and not the red) where they are located under the carbs.

 

Another very important trick using this product. If you have not had this problem you eventually will. It's just a matter of time.

 

The large rubber diaphrams in each carb under the outside carb cover plate will eventually develop pin holes in the diaphram. When this happens your engine performance and gas mileage drop significantly. New replacement diaphrams run about $80.00 each x 4=$320 plus tax and shipping. The cheaper, easier fix is to:

1. remove the 4 screws to remove the cover plate.

2. slide the diaphram out of the carb body.

3. Hold the diaphram up to a light so you can see where the pin holes are

4. paint the pin holes with a light cover of the liquid rubber

5. let dry.

6. reinsert the diaphram

7. replace the cover

8. Go ride.

 

I also use the product to fill the back side of all of the electrical quick connect plugs where the wires go in. This prevents warm connections from drawing moisture into the plugs which causes oxidation, corrosion on the connecting surfaces which leads to electrical high resistance and intermitten electrical failure.

 

Just a few tips I've learned the hard way over the years.

 

Hope that helps.

[Condor]

Good post Bob. On a 1stGen there is a steel liner sandwiched in the rubber, and most times the external cracking will not effect performance. I never seen a post on whether the 2ndGen joints are the same way?? So even thought it looks scary leaking on the side wall may not occur. In my case the cracking was around the top lip where the hose clamp sits. Maybe tightening the lip would have sealed the cracks, but I didn't want to take the chance. Rubberized paint might have done the job, but all 4 of the joints had a lot of lip cracking. When the carb was inserted in the joint extensive sidewall cracking also appeared. If it was just one I might have gone the paint route. Plus the MPG sucked. So I decided to give the bike a lot of love and went new.

PS: When i get the joints off I plan on taking a hacksaw to one of them to find out once and for all whether they also have the steel liner....

[Dragonslayer]

Good post Bob. On a 1stGen there is a steel liner sandwiched in the rubber, and most times the external cracking will not effect performance. I never seen a post on whether the 2ndGen joints are the same way?? So even thought it looks scary leaking on the side wall may not occur. In my case the cracking was around the top lip where the hose clamp sits. Maybe tightening the lip would have sealed the cracks, but I didn't want to take the chance. Rubberized paint might have done the job, but all 4 of the joints had a lot of lip cracking. When the carb was inserted in the joint extensive sidewall cracking also appeared. If it was just one I might have gone the paint route. Plus the MPG sucked. So I decided to give the bike a lot of love and went new.

 

PS: When i get the joints off I plan on taking a hacksaw to one of them to find out once and for all whether they also have the steel liner....

I don't blame you a bit and agree. If you are already into a fuel system rebuild and have the means. New is always better than patched. I'm just saying it might a viable option for some.

[oktulsa717]

New guy here with a question. Do you have to remove the carbs to replace the rubber carb joints ?

 

 

Jim

 

'99 Venture

[eusa1]

yes you do.

welcome from Illinois!!

[oktulsa717]

yes you do.

welcome from Illinois!!

 

Thanks for the info. Looks like a winter project.

 

I just did the patch on the cracks and things seem to be better now. May just see how long the patch lasts.