stanG needs a stanD

[stanG]

Need some help. I was getting ready to head out to work this morning and my sidestand just snapped sending the bike into my body but I caught it before it hit the floor. Looks like it snapped off on the tabs where the bolt passes thru. Anybody have a spare laying around from a parts bike that they are willing to part with?

[djh3]

Sounds like it needs a bit of beefing up.

[bongobobny]

Yes, unfortunately a somewhat common problem. There is a modification to the bolt that you can do to beef it up, do a search on it...

[Huggy]

If you take the broken bolt to your local Nut and Bolt supply outlet and have them replace it with a grade 8 bolt you will be better off then just getting a replacement one!

 

[Jayceesfolly]

Gary (Dingy) did a bolt conversion and it works great. Did my bike and it has worked perfectly for months now. I never think about that old and unreliable shoulder bolt any more.

 

I do not have an extra kickstand, but I have an extra bolt which I can send you and directions on how to convert the kick stand. PM me your address.

 

Jim

[Jayceesfolly]

Here is the thread for the conversion for the kickstand:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48342

 

 

Jim

[stanG]

Good advise guys but the bolt is intact. It snapped off on the metal tab that the bolt goes through.

Edited September 24, 2013 by stanG

[Jayceesfolly]

That is sometimes caused by a loose or stretched kickstand bolt. This is a well known problem on the First Gens. When you get a new kickstand, do the conversion and never have to worry about a loose or broken bolt or kickstand again. My kick stand is just as tight as the day I did the conversion. The factory installed shoulder bolt has a deep undercut on the end of the threads where the shoulder starts, that can cause the problem of broken or loose bolt condition. If the shoulder bolt loosens, it allows the kickstand to to become loose and sloppy and it allows the bike to lean over too far and eventually it will cause the "ears" to bend and become overstressed due the weight of the bike bearing down on the loose stand. You discovered the result of the "ears" being overstressed and bent out of shape.

Once the bolt becomes loose or the bolt is overtightened (and overstressing the weak threads) it is only a matter of time before the bolt or kickstand fails.

 

 

Jim

[Condor]

What's been happening with these older 1stGen Ventures is the sidestand is something we never think of... or lube. So the bolt wears, and the sidestand gets loose and the bike leans more. So we torque down on the bolt to tighten it up. The problem is the bolt has a shoulder with a locking nut, and all the tightening in the world ain't gonna cure the problem. Eventually the bolt snaps off due to over torqing. Dingy's fix will work. Buying a new bolt and nut will too. All this for the lack of a little lube. So a bit of advice to other owners of 1stGens....and 2ndGens too. Service the side stand. Not a hard job just put it on the center stand and go for it.... I know some wise guy is going to bring up the fact that 2's don't have sidestands so it may be a little more trouble with the balancing act. My '99 has one.... And eventually, if Rivco ever get's around to it, Seven will too....

[Jrichard]

Good advise guys but the bolt is intact. It snapped off on the metal tab that the bolt goes through.

StanG----------motorcycle salvaged yard{PINWALL cycle parts in OHIO]aaaa750-1100 Virago stand will work!:usa:

[icebrrg3rd]

stanG, if you haven't ordered one yet, I know I have one I pulled from my part bike, just gotta get up in the garage loft to grab it. I did the bolt mod on my current stand, so I'm hoping (knock on wood) that I won't need the spare. Send me a pm with your address, I'll try and get it sent out in the next day or so.

 

-Andrew

[stanG]

Thanks for all the advice. Strangely, I had not seen anything on this in the forum before. I spent some time in the shop fabricating a new stand out of 3/4" pipe and steel. I took the occasion to do the bolt upgrade and added a larger foot as well. I opted to cut some m12x1.25 threads in the back side of the stand and use a single locking nut.

 

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 4

Edited September 26, 2013 by stanG

[Beau-Kat]

Good advise guys but the bolt is intact. It snapped off on the metal tab that the bolt goes through.

 

Looking at your photo, am I seeing a couple of frame/weld cracks just aft of your kickstand flange?

[dingy]

Thanks for all the advice. Strangely, I had not seen anything on this in the forum before. I spent some time in the shop fabricating a new stand out of 3/4" pipe and steel. I took the occasion to do the bolt upgrade and added a larger foot as well. I opted to cut some m12x1.25 threads in the back side of the stand and use a single locking nut.

 

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 4

 

Did you use a fully threaded bolt?

The concern with this is that instead of the hardened shoulder of bolt going through ears of side stand & tab on frame, there would only be the threaded portion of the bolt passing through these members. What this means is that instead of having 100% contact with the unthreaded shoulder of bolt, there would be reduced contact area to about 10% less bearing surface with only the crests of the threaded portion of bolt contacting side stand and frame tab. This reduction in contact area will lead to greatly increased wear on the contact surfaces between threaded bolt and frame tab.

I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts). Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads.

I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand.

 

The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005".

Gary

[stanG]

No, I used a 50mm bolt and the shoulder was about right to pass through the outer portion and the center tab then thread into the inner portion. I actually ran out of threads and had to use the washer that you see on the outside to snug it up. I then cut off the excess on the bolt. Currently there is an 8.8 hardness bolt in there as I wasn't able to find a 10.9 on short notice but I plan on replacing it when I find one.

 

As for the frame cracks, thanks for the heads up. I will check it out.

[stanG]

Checked the frame ... No cracks... Probably the way the light was hitting it in the photo.