Barrycuda Posted September 15, 2013 #1 Posted September 15, 2013 Hello again to all, This of course is the never ending oil question, but I want to narrow it down to just Mobil 1. My last oil change was the first switch to a synthetic oil. My bike is an '03 which had exactly 30K at the time of the new switch. I changed to a 10w30 Mobil one after reading posts by someone here who claimed after X amount of thousands of miles, never once an issue and that's all he uses. After doing some extra reading, it seems ALL 10w30 oils are "energy conserving" which claims to not be all that good for our RSV wet clutches. I changed the oil and went to Vogel and the deals gap. No problems up to now, No leaks, no slipping and decreased whine. As of now, all is well. And I am not looking for issues or problems, in fact I am reaching out to AVOID any unnecessary issues... Living in Florida, its more humid and perhaps the synthetic oil is helping. My question is this: Is it HARMFUL in the short or long term to my engine using or continuing to use 10/30 verses a 10/40 non energy conserving. I am strictly speaking of Mobil 1. I realize everyone is using different things and there are several hundred threads regarding oil. And many of you are more involved with these studies. I am just trying to see, and learn from you fine members if I continue to STAY with 10/30 or switch to 10/40 to keep my engine and MC in prime working condition. Thanks to all in advance...
M61A1MECH Posted September 15, 2013 #2 Posted September 15, 2013 Barry Did you use Mobile 1 motorcycle oil? or regular Mobile 1 automotive oil? The Mobile 1 motorcycle oil should not be an issue, see quote from Mobile web site. "Like Mobil 1™ automotive products, the two Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are based on proven, advanced synthetic oil technology. These unique, fully synthetic motorcycle oils are scientifically engineered to withstand the extreme heat produced by high-revving motorcycle engines and the toughest riding conditions. These formulations are designed specifically for the unique needs of motorcycles." here is alink to where the information came from, http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oils.aspx It would seem they only have 2 motorcycle oils, the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 How many miles have you ridden on the Mobile 1?
Flyinfool Posted September 15, 2013 #3 Posted September 15, 2013 Mobil 1 T4 is specifically formulated for MC.
djh3 Posted September 15, 2013 #4 Posted September 15, 2013 To my knowledge the 2 Mobil 1 chioces of "motorcycle" oil is as stated. 10w40 and the 20w50. The owners manual for my 09 says not to use any deisel oils with a spec of "CD" or energy conservation label of II or higher. You really should be running atleast a 10w40 here in Fla. The recomendations for 10 deg to 110 is 10w40. also says from50 deg to 130 to use 20w50. Its up to you but I would definatly be running the 10w40 in this hot state. Heat breaks the oil down and thins it out. Then it dont lube like it should. Also oil disapates heat some and a thicker oil should carry some of that away. In the summer I run the Rotella T6 and 1 to 1.5 qt of 20w50 mixed in. Winter the straight T6. At $25 or so an oil change for oil vs $40 it does it for me.
GilliganJ Posted September 15, 2013 #5 Posted September 15, 2013 I have been using the Mobil 1 Automotive the kind(s), Either The 10/30OR the 20/40 they sell at Costco in my 84 Mk 1 Std for close to 100,000 miles and 20 years without any problems even 2nd gear has never been a problem. The guy I bought it from was running Pennzoil Automotive...NOW that was a problem (clutch was real chattery) but since Mobil 1 the tranny shifts like butter and the clutch is always smooth. But that just my 2 cents worth
IronMike Posted September 15, 2013 #6 Posted September 15, 2013 When it comes to oil there are many reasons you should stick with a motorcycle specific oil. If you were to contact shell oil they would advise against using their diesel oil in your bike for the zddp levels, (too low) and its not wet clutch friendly and the viscosity its sold at is no it real good for warmer climates. I used it I liked it but they said no in writing. I'm not looking it up write them yourself. I do use it as a winter storage oil because its so cheap. I can run it a bit with it in and put real motorcycle oil in come spring. But that was way back when I did not ride in winter. Anyhow Amsoil web site has a lot of information on motorcycle specific oil technology and no one can beat them at it IMHO. But even with their own independent lap test results mobile one synthetic most always comes in second. Search for the AMSOIL motorcycle white sheet . No one spends more money on oil research than AMSOIL, it was first in synthetics and they keep up on it. Check out their race day results too. In warmer climate I would use AMSOIL or mobile one 20 w 50 Other than that the 10 w 40. And as a side note a friend of mine and I did an impromptu test. Identical bikes ran same temp with same oil. But yet the one with AMSOIL ran 9 degrees cooler on same trip when shot with infrared thermometer in same spots on engine. Now he's a believer.
Barrycuda Posted September 15, 2013 Author #7 Posted September 15, 2013 Barry Did you use Mobile 1 motorcycle oil? or regular Mobile 1 automotive oil? The Mobile 1 motorcycle oil should not be an issue, see quote from Mobile web site. "Like Mobil 1™ automotive products, the two Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are based on proven, advanced synthetic oil technology. These unique, fully synthetic motorcycle oils are scientifically engineered to withstand the extreme heat produced by high-revving motorcycle engines and the toughest riding conditions. These formulations are designed specifically for the unique needs of motorcycles." here is alink to where the information came from, http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oils.aspx It would seem they only have 2 motorcycle oils, the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 How many miles have you ridden on the Mobile 1? Ah...I forgot to add,I am using the REGULAR Mobil 1 10/30. As many have stated the motorcycle version is simply to charge more money without significant gains. As for the miles, since the change, I am approaching 2000 miles. Many thanks so far to everyone responding .
buddy Posted September 15, 2013 #8 Posted September 15, 2013 As long it's non energy conserving label you will be just fine !!! Buddy
Guest Posted September 16, 2013 #9 Posted September 16, 2013 I have been using the 20/50 Mobil 1 or Amsoil 20/50 for some time now.
Capt-D Posted September 16, 2013 #10 Posted September 16, 2013 The Mobile 10/30 high mileage synthetic is not a energy conserving, I have been using it for the past couple changes and everything seems okay.
Bones Posted September 16, 2013 #11 Posted September 16, 2013 I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my motorcycles for a while now. I have 15k miles on my current and 50k on my last and 26k on the one before that. At no time have I had a problem and I use whatever Mobil 1 is on sale at the time, 10w40 or above in viscosity. The motorcycle specific Mobil 1 on the manufacturer's web site states it to have better stability for higher temperatures and use with a wet clutch and adjoined transmission. Link here http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx#FAQs2 Zink is the additive that was once praised for air cooled bikes due to over heating. The "sheer" stability of the oil would give way at too high a temp and metal parts would/could come in contact while running. Not really an issue with water cooled Motors. Molybdenum, though, can be a problem and is what is now used in most "energy conserving" oil these days as Zinc will hurt catalytic converters. Moly bothers the clutch... Most sites parrot the same info however they are also trying to sell you their product so here is an easily digestable form. Link here http://www.ehow.com/about_6458429_motor-oil-zinc.html 10w40 15w50 and the motorcycle specific blends are what I would use as they do not have significant amounts of Moly in them, however all of the Automobile specific Mobil 1 oils do have some amount as I understand it. I also was curious about what to use and why and I tried to read up on all that I could find about Mobil 1 use as the price is better than all the other "Real" synthetics in my area. I use it for literally everything here... Just explaining my specific understanding and usage.
IronMike Posted September 16, 2013 #12 Posted September 16, 2013 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=amsoil%20motorcycle%20white%20sheet&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&ved=0CD4QFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dualies.com%2Fdownloads%2Ffiles%2FOil%2520Test%2520Results%2520-%2520g2156.pdf&ei=2dI2Uv_HF-3o2gXOq4Aw&usg=AFQjCNEfqmvviiYjG8SrIzdJtkamdmb5KQ&sig2=wv0CMtY1UsKSpCZChYPviQ&bvm=bv.52164340,d.b2I I hope that link isn't that long for real. But its the new AMSOIL independent lap test white sheet, no they didn't come out on top of every category but enough so that it may convince you to use it over mobile one. I happen to be going right past some and going in to pick some up. If the link don't work just Google AMSOIL motorcycle white sheet and about the fifth one down is the newest one. Its a pft. It would be too long to explain it all on a thread. But as an AMSOIL dealer, reading all the things they have us read about oil there's no sense in putting anything but motorcycle oil in a motorcycle. If its car oil, its missing a lot of added benefits. Period. No wonder mobile one's viscosity is breaking down so fast. I think I might order a drum of AMSOIL for locals. The white sheet is the second edition and was done because some changed their formula. Also to be used with an AMSOIL filter or the like. I'm going to the k&p engineering permanent oil filter, far superior to any other for filtration and cooling. And, its green!
bongobobny Posted September 16, 2013 #13 Posted September 16, 2013 Barry, for your warmer climate I'm surprised you were even using 10W30!!! Even up north here we use 40 or 45 which is what Yami suggests. Unless you want clutch problems do not use energy conserving oil of any type! We have what is known as a "wet" clutch and any oil with friction inhibitors is going to get on the clutch and cause it to slip and pretty much ruin the clutch and friction discs forever...
IronMike Posted September 16, 2013 #14 Posted September 16, 2013 I just read the entire white sheet I posted. Can someone please go to my house and get that mobile one outta there for me quick! Even more convincing that its done by independent lab and Amsoil woukd be liable for any wrongful data. And remember. The last white sheet was posted for years and none of the big names contested it. But they tries to change their formula to beat amsoil. Lol. That's just wrong. Mobil 1 aint what it used to be. That may explain the temp difference we got when shooting it after a 300 mike ride. Amsoil being so much cooler. Ya all ought to really read that word for word. Explanations and all. Like I said before no one knows oil or tests oil as much as amsoil. Getting some on the way home. Yay!
Barrycuda Posted September 16, 2013 Author #15 Posted September 16, 2013 Barry, for your warmer climate I'm surprised you were even using 10W30!!! Even up north here we use 40 or 45 which is what Yami suggests. Unless you want clutch problems do not use energy conserving oil of any type! We have what is known as a "wet" clutch and any oil with friction inhibitors is going to get on the clutch and cause it to slip and pretty much ruin the clutch and friction discs forever... Yeah Bobby, I should have been using 10/40 all along but had a brain fart. Thankfully, much of it was used to and from Vogel, where the weather was awesome(60-70*). I will be switching back to a 10/40 synthetic ASAP. Thanks to everyone who made time to comment and add your advice!!
RandyR Posted September 16, 2013 #16 Posted September 16, 2013 The 4T is the best, the 50W is for aircooled engines in the summer.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now