drain plug locations

[Sexagenarian]

Let me preface this question by stating I am officially this site's oldest newbie when it comes to maintaining their first ride. Unfortunately I waited until I was in my 60's (thus sexagenarian) before going through the course with my wife. My previous experience on anything involving internal combustion equipment was by turning the keys over to the automotive mechanic and paying the ransom when I wanted the vehicle back.

I started my motorcycle training by separating the carbs and thoroughly cleaning them and replacing all the o-rings and gaskets located in the float bowls and fuel pipes. Also had one diaphragm which I replaced and put back together using the sirius web site. Now have removed the radiator for flushing and I will pressure test it by dialing back my compressor to about 10 psi. Do not want to remove the right side muffler to drain the water pump after reading there is little fluid in there once the radiator has been drained. Will instead fill with water, run the engine for a minute and drain the radiator again. I figure doing this a couple times would get all the old coolant out. Then refill with a 50/50 low silicate or zero silicate anti-freeze solution. Another reason is that I am having trouble locating the correct drain plug for the water pump (newbie, remember)! I will also be changing the oil and filter which is the reason for this long post. I believe the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan appears to have a phillips head inside the actual nut...Does this sound right? The dog-goned Clymer manual assumes a person knows their way around a motorcycle much better than I actually do. If the drain bolt has such an identifying characteristic as the phillips head center, why not divulge that? Oh well, thanks for any feedback, and I am prepared to take my teasing on this newbie question from all you seasoned pro's out there. Thanks again.

Edited September 14, 2013 by Sexagenarian

[RSTDdog]

Its not the one with the Phillips head center. At least its not on my 2005. DO NOT REMOVE THAT ONE.

 

Here is the 98 RSTD Owners manual link on Yamaha's website They don't go back to 97 should be the same though. Shows where it is Section 6 page 10 (6-10) http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/1998/LIT-11626-11-18_140.pdf On the bottom of the engine, middleish.

 

Not a great picture from the parts fiche Should be Number 14 shown here and in attached image . You can scroll and zoom using the link. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/partviewer/default.aspx?ls=star#/Yamaha/XVZ13LTJ_-_1997/OIL_CLEANER/XVZ13LTJ_(1997_MOTORCYCLE)/OIL_CLEANER_(XVZ13LTJ_-_1997)

 

 

 

RSTDdog

Edited September 8, 2013 by RSTDdog

[Marcarl]

On my 85 Venture, the drain plug has the Phillips head screw inserted. The screw is actually a magnet for catching any metal parts floating around.

[ToyOdie]

I have a 95 and 97 RDTC. Yes it is the one with the phillips screw. Both bikes have a phillips screw in the oil drain plug. Don't try to use the screw to drain the oil. The drain plug is a 17mm. I'm not sure if the screw is a magnet but it sounds resonable. I'll have to check that next time I have it out.

[Sexagenarian]

thanks for the replies everyone... this forum rocks!!!!

[RSTDdog]

My 2006 drain plug is just a 17mm flange bolt with no phillips head so that's why I was concerned it may be the wrong one.

 

I seem to remember there were some m/c engines, don't remember which ones and maybe not Yamaha, it seems threre was a bolt with Phillips screw very near the oil drain bolt. Customers removed by mistake and it was a retainer for the shift fork and you hear a little plink noise and you get to split the cases. Anyway pays to be careful and double check.

[Sexagenarian]

yup.... that phillips head inside the 17mm head was the oil drain plug. tested it for magnetic properties but there was none... too bad.. thought that would have been a great idea... the drained oil had a very strong gasoline aroma so I am glad I changed it.... Purchased some inexpensive 10w-30 SM oil (had to google what all the designations were) and it will be in there just long enough to do a carb synch so as to flush it all out some more and then the filter and oil both will be changed out again to the specified yamaha brands (expensive!!)...

[Flyinfool]

Make sure that whatever cheap oil you put in for the flush says on the bottle that it is compatible with a wet clutch. If if has friction modifiers like most car oils it will cause your clutch to start slipping.

[Sexagenarian]

Make sure that whatever cheap oil you put in for the flush says on the bottle that it is compatible with a wet clutch. If if has friction modifiers like most car oils it will cause your clutch to start slipping.

 

thank you for the heads up!! I was not aware of that. I am learning there is so much to learn when doing your own maintenance.

The temporary oil does not have the JASO designations nor does it mention wet clutch anywhere on the bottle so I am going to say it is NOT wet clutch compatible. Now what? The only purpose of this oil was to be in the machine while it warms up. It would not be moved anywhere and the clutch would not be operated. My thought process was to use this as a flushing oil since there was such a strong odor of gasoline in the oil which was just drained. This temporary oil was then to be drained and replaced (along with the filter) with yamaha-4 if the gasoline aroma was greatly reduced. Do you think I will be causing unintended problems? Do you think I should drain this oil before starting it up later today when the bike is all reassembled? thanks for your thoughts!! -Wayne

[SummerBreeze]

Something that I do on all of my vehicles is to get a maginet(i.e. from an old speaker of at the craft shop) and put it on the bottom of the oil filter. just my two cents worth.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Wayne,

I admire your courage as far as taking on the maintenance of your motorcycle goes! I am sure you will find that you will do a much better job than most dealers, and spend a LOT less money! I have found that the very best mix for the coolant in our bikes is actually a 60% mix of anti-freeze and 40% water. This allows a 10 to 15 degree DECREASE in the operating temp of the cooling system during the hot summer months. It also offers better corrosion protection for our aluminum block engines. I also ALWAYS use distilled water when I mix my coolant. (Walmart, $.89 a gallon) Put the water in a container FIRST, then add the anti-freeze to the water. Stir completely, then add to the cooling system. By adding the anti-freeze to the water, the anti-freeze molecule encapsulates the water molecule. This gives your motor the best protection. I feel that not only is it a good idea to do things the right way, but also to understand WHY you are doing it as well. I have seen these engines go 300,000 miles with NO major problems, but it wasn't by accident.

You are asking ALL the right questions, my friend. Keep up the good work.

Earl

[Flyinfool]

thank you for the heads up!! I was not aware of that. I am learning there is so much to learn when doing your own maintenance.

The temporary oil does not have the JASO designations nor does it mention wet clutch anywhere on the bottle so I am going to say it is NOT wet clutch compatible. Now what? The only purpose of this oil was to be in the machine while it warms up. It would not be moved anywhere and the clutch would not be operated. My thought process was to use this as a flushing oil since there was such a strong odor of gasoline in the oil which was just drained. This temporary oil was then to be drained and replaced (along with the filter) with yamaha-4 if the gasoline aroma was greatly reduced. Do you think I will be causing unintended problems? Do you think I should drain this oil before starting it up later today when the bike is all reassembled? thanks for your thoughts!! -Wayne

 

I really am not sure.

I have no first hand experience with using the wrong oil.

IIRC the slippage does not show up immediately when it does happen.

BUT when slippages does happen, it can take 2 oil changes to make it go away.

On the other hand, there are some car oils that are fine with the wet clutch even though they do not say so on the bottle.

 

Now that I have you thoroughly cornfused........

 

It sounds like you already have the car oil in there.

If you run it just to do the carbs and as a flush of the gassed oil I am "guessing" that you will not have an issue. As long as you do not pull the clutch to open the plates the oil should not get in there. When you go to drain this oil, there is a second drain plug for the transmission. It is the bottom bolt of the 6 bolts on the left side middle gear cover, this bolt should have a copper crush washer to seal the bolt head.

For a "normal" oil change this bolt does not need to be pulled. There is only a couple of ounces of oil in there. But since you want to get as much of the old out as possible, I would pull that plug this time. The main oil drains best on the center stand the trans drains best on the side stand. Drain the main first.

 

You can reuse the crush washer if it is not damaged and you anneal it.

To anneal it use a torch (a gas stove will work in a pinch, just don't let the wife catch you:duck:) to heat it to a dull red and immediately drop it in a bucket of water to cool. this will make it soft so that it can do a good job of sealing the oil.

[DragonRider]

The Phillips head screw in the oil plug is definitely magnetic, when I had to change my pinion gear in my 83, I found a lot of small metal fragments attached to the end of the screw that protruded through the drain plug. Its not a really strong magnet, but it was strong enough to collect a lot of small fragments. And the magnet at the bottom of the oil filter wont work on a 1st gen unless you have the spin adapter replacing the stock filter housing which is magnesium.