Spark Plug Wire Replacement - MK2

[Donvito]

I recently replaced the spark plug wires on my 87 VR. I'm not familiar with MK1's so I don't know if this will work with them. I purchased a set of wires from a vendor on ebay and was happy with the process, product and price. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=390654433334

 

I am including some pictures of the process.

 

1. Remove the top cover, side covers and radiator side covers.

 

2. Disconnect the battery and remove it. If, like me, you have an old style battery you will have to remove the spill hose and the level sensor.

 

3. Remove the battery box. There are two bolts at the bottom and one at the top front. You can spray some penetrating oil before removing them but mine came out easy. Also, there is a component that is attached to the positive terminal connected to the battery box on the let side and this just pulls off. This will give you access to the rear cylinder coils.

 

4. Unscrew the wire nut that holds the wire to the coil. Be careful because there is a rubber grommet. Mine came out with the wire but look for it, you'll need to put it on the new wire.

 

5. There is a covering over the wire. Mine was attached with electrical tape. Trim the tape from both ends of the wire.

 

6. Work the wire back and forth inside the covering. If it doesn't slide easily, you can spray some lubricant inside the covering. I used silicone spray.

 

7. Pull the wire out of the covering from the spark plug side. Hold the covering at the top while you are doing this. You want it to remain in place.

 

8. Apply some dielectric grease to the outside of the new wire then thread it through the cover until it is in far enough to get access to it at the coil.

 

9. Slide the wire nut and the grommet onto the wire and insert into the coil. Tighten the nut, attach the wire to the spark plug and the first one is done. Repeat for the other rear coil.

 

11. When replacing the battery box be sure to thread the spill hose through the opening and reattach the component at the positive terminal to the tabs on the box. Don't ask why I'm reminding you. Also, re-install the battery sensor.

 

12. The front cylinder wires are easy. The coils are accessible under the fairing above the radiator. You can use the same method or remove the wire and cover and just thread it back through where it was.

 

I don't know how to add captions or move the pictures or I would. If someone can advise me, I will edit this. Also, if there are correct names for the items I referred to, I don't mind if you tell me.

Edited September 6, 2013 by Donvito

[dna9656]

This is the first post I found on anything like spark plug removal...The pictures were of great help to me! Thanks!

[tz89]

Front 2 easy - now on to that back.

[dna9656]

I got my hand in to the coil area, replaced the wires and fed them through the same route the originals took on my 83-84.

[tz89]

Got er done. The pictures helped.

 

I couldn't get the new wire fed through very easily. On mine there is an inner and an outer tube. What worked was to pull the inner tube out, insert the plug wire, and twist both into the outer tube which worked easily.

 

My fuse block is a rats nest as I've posted before. So for some future project I'll straighten that all out.

[Brown Angel]

Now I wish someone figured out how to remove the coils when you have a bad one! Those screws are so tight in the bracket. Anybody have any way to share here?

[Yammer Dan]

A 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet extension and a screwdriver bit. You can get it in there. Just make sure you have the right bit to fit the screws tightly. Or remove entire rack.

[Brown Angel]

Truly can those penetrating fluids really loosen a terribly tight one?

[dna9656]

If you can heat up the fastener (small torch' like for use on heat shrink, available at radio shack) a little get some bee's wax at Ace Hardware, it's in a blister pack usually on an end cap, ask for it if all else fails...

Anyway heat up the head of your fastener (f you can get to the threaded area so much the better) and push the bee's way on to the head of the fastener. It will penetrate, trust me. This is WAY better than any penetrating fluid I have tried, including Kroil, WD-40, LPS, cutting oil, and numerous others.

The wax come in a hockey puck shape, keep it handy, it's good for lubing threads you don't want to rust.. and many other things that will occur to you as you go though your repairs.

[Prairiehammer]

A 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet extension and a screwdriver bit. You can get it in there. Just make sure you have the right bit to fit the screws tightly. Or remove entire rack.

 

Yep, get the correct bit size: JIS #3. Just like the 'Phillips' head screws holding the TCI.

[Pegasus1300]

A 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet extension and a screwdriver bit. You can get it in there. Just make sure you have the right bit to fit the screws tightly. Or remove entire rack.

 

remember that these are JIS screws NOT Phillips. If you have a hand impact driver and can get it in there they will probably be JIS bits.

[Money Venture]

50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is the best penetrating lube for stuck fasteners.

[bongobobny]

Now I wish someone figured out how to remove the coils when you have a bad one! Those screws are so tight in the bracket. Anybody have any way to share here?

Angel, make sure you are using an JIS tip on the screwdriver!!! The angles are different on Japan Industrial Standard screws and if you use an SAE tip you will strip out the screw head!! Harbor freight sells a nice set of JIS impact screwdrivers...