StarFan Posted September 3, 2013 #1 Posted September 3, 2013 Greetings fellow Venturers. As some of you might now I rebuilt a salvage Millenium this past winter and sold it. The person who bought it had the ignition switch fail after having the bike for three days. Bought and sent him a new one but he is still having some electrical problems with it. Here below is his description of the problem. Hope that some of you guys have had a similiar issue or would know what could be the cause of this. any help and any advice very much apreciated. : Electric trouble Yamaha Royal Star Venture 1300 2000 1. First time it happened I switched the ignition on and the meters didn’t start up but the radio came on. If I turned the key 1-2 mm back counterclockwise the meters came in and I could start. This happened several times. Then I sprayed WD40 into the switch and it was ok after that. Now I was going to four weeks tour in Sweden with my wife on the bike. I did not trust the switch so I made a By Pass switch to the Red and Brown wire in the pink Plug under the tank. (Found by Jonas at the internet) 2. The second day in the tour it happened again and nothing works. Then I turned on the switch, connect the By Pass and the motor started. That works for about next two weeks. 3. NEW TROUBLE. I turned the switch off, disconnected the by pass and took the key out. The lights where still on! To fix this the rest of the tour I cut the wire to four fuses in the fuse box. (Head lights, turn lights, Ignition, Fan.) and put a switch there . The backup fuse was still live. The by pass switch was now out of order because everything was on. I thought at this moment the contact in the switch was burned together. This was (ok) for about four days. Fourth morning the battery was empty so I got start from a car. Next about 800km in the way home and two nights in the ship was the battery ok. Then I ride 300 km from the ship to home. First morning at home the battery was dead and every day after that so I charged it every night. Jonas ordered a new ignition switch when I was in the tour and I have replaced it but this second Trouble is still there – when I turn the ignition switch off the lights are still on and the fuel pump. I disconnected the red and brown wire to the new switch and that makes no different. Now I have put a main switch to the negative pole so I can ride every day without trouble. But the trouble is still there. When I connect the main switch the lights come on and the fuel pump. If you can help me resolve this problem I would be very grateful. Best regards, Svavar Tulinius / Jonas StarFan
StarFan Posted September 3, 2013 Author #3 Posted September 3, 2013 Agree, but what relay would cause this ?? Regards, Jonas / StarFan
cowpuc Posted September 3, 2013 #4 Posted September 3, 2013 Not sure, never worked on a 2nd Gen but, I wonder if you looked up a wire diagram and checked to see if the fuel pump and headlights work off a common relay that would be a start... Got to be either that or voltage is sneaking in somewhere to activate the relay(s).. I had an old Virago that the wire harness got "pinched" at the neck of the bike and it pinched enough to splice some wires together and this caused some issues like you are talking about.. Maybe try turning off the key and wiggling wires around and see if the lights go off, simple but you never know..
dingy Posted September 4, 2013 #6 Posted September 4, 2013 Jonas, I talked to you about this at WNY rally. Said then electrical problems were tough to troubleshoot when you are standing by bike, let alone half a world away. I attached a reduced complexity version of the RSV wiring diagram. This is all circuits on the bike, but without the connectors shown. This makes layout of the circuits easier. Your problem is going to probably be in upper left quadrant of the attached PDF. 1st thing to try would be to pull every fuse except the main fuse. There are 10 of them in 2 locations. I think other fuse block is in right knee fairing. This will severely limit the extent of the normal paths for current flow. Probably, nothing will work on bike with all fuses pulled. Next, take a volt meter, negative lead to ground. Positive side, take and check BOTH sides of each fuse for a 12v reading. Do this with key ON. You should read 12v on one side of fuse holder, this is normal feed from battery, if on any fuse, you read 12v on both sides of fuse holder, this will be an indication that that circuit has an unintended cross connection to 12v source. If none of the fuses holders have an unexpected reading that will narrow down source of cross feed, (AKA short, I hate that term). Put all the fuses back in, proper amp reading in each. Sizing is on attached PDF. Now pull the main fuse at the starter solenoid, left side cover near battery. Does problem still exist. If problem is still there, then you almost have to have a 'short' between the main red wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the key and also to the Regulator/Rectifier TO the Brown wire with a Blue tracer that feeds most of the power to the bike. Finding this 'short' will be a challenge. What I have found while working on the RSV Hybrid is that the main red wire runs all over the bike. It goes from the starter solenoid at rear up front to key switch, over to condenser in knee fairing, over to R/R in front of motor. The Brown with blue tracer also runs around a lot. It goes from main switch to primary fuse block near starter solenoid, and also to the secondary fuse block right knee fairing. I hope I have given you good locations for components I have listed, I still don't have anything close to a complete RSV, nor will I ever. Complete wiring diagrams are at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Gary
cecdoo Posted September 4, 2013 #7 Posted September 4, 2013 Have you thought back to where the actual damage from the crash was? Maybe something pinched or cut a wire or connector at the point of impact? Dont know how severely it was crashed, but the areas most damaged mite be a good place to start looking for bad wires. Craig
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