Clear coat

[Trader]

Any suggestons on what type of clear coat to use on side covers? Mine is partially flaked off so while I have them off with a stator change I may as well polish them up and re-clear coat them.

[Trader]

bump....no suggestions?

[Huggy]

ColorRite, they make paints and clear coat for motorcycles. Go to the following web site this is there Canadian dealer http://www.dpars.com/

 

[Trader]

I got a pm plus groundhugger's suggestion...both to do with PAINT clear coat.

 

Is this the same product I should use on the aluminum cases?

 

I would have thought there was a product specifically for that.

[Huggy]

Not that I am aware of I know the guys on XJ forum just use automotive clear coat. You could send and email to ColorRite and ask them.

http://www.colorrite.com/

 

[Trader]

Only available by the gallon....$285!!!!!

 

 

next suggestion? LOL

[Freebird]

Colorite will recommend that you use their clearcoat with their paint. I disagree. I know of at least a couple of folks who have used their clearcoat and it "yellowed" fairly fast. I think V7Goose ran into that problem. I would just us a quality automotive clearcoat.

[Huggy]

Only available by the gallon....$285!!!!!

 

 

next suggestion? LOL

 

Freebird is probably right about the Automotive clear coat but ColorRite sells it in a spray can.

 

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-high-gloss-clear-1075.cfm

 

[RedRider]

Freebird is probably right about the Automotive clear coat but ColorRite sells it in a spray can.

 

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-high-gloss-clear-1075.cfm

 

 

You can go to a local autoparts store and get it in a spray can. You will need to find the good store - not O'Reilly's or Autozone.

 

Find the store the indy auto repair shops buy from. They will custom make colors in a spray can and have the clear coat.

 

RR

[Silverado6x6]

I buy my clearcoat from NAPA, yes its expensive, actually the hardener costs more, and it takes a supple technique spraying it as its like water, an HVLP gun with a nozzle no bigger than 1.3mm, that is what I use and I have to dial down the pressure just right. 1mm may be better for a bike. A good clearcoat is a UV blocker, its a urethane shield and some paints require it, single stage rattle can clear coats IMHO do not compare.

Doing clearcoat is an art, the prep, the coat or coats, the wet sanding between coats, the rubbing afterwards. And not by hand, it can be done but you need a low speed adjustable rpm power tool plus it requires certain techniques or you burn through.

Not easy for a novice, I do a fair amount of body and paint on a fleet of company and personal vehicles. A dust free area, low humidity, the right temp, the right lighting.

may be better to let a pro do it, but when done right its awesome.

[dingy]

Also, do not shake a can of clear coat much at all. I have been told this causes small air bubbles in the clear coat that will effect finish.

 

Gary

[Flyinfool]

All of the single part clears that I have tried are either not chemical resistant (oil, gas, carb or brake cleaner) or they yellow quickly.

 

There are sever companies that do make a 2 part clear in a rattle can. You press in the right spot to break an internal seal to allow the resin and hardener to mix internally. Once you mix it whatever you do not use can not be saved, it will still kick off and harden in the can.

 

Here is one http://www.eastwood.com/

 

or

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY]Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317U4Ie5tYL.@@AMEPARAM@@317U4Ie5tYL[/ame]