uncledj Posted August 25, 2013 #1 Posted August 25, 2013 Here's the situation: I'm building a new outhouse at the family cabin in North Central PA. The old outhouse has been there for 25 years, and has attracted enough ants / bees that it's time to tear it down and put up a new one. It sits atop a 750 gallon concrete holding tank. I put in a small exhaust fan that draws through the poo hole and exhausts out the vent, so it's actually an odor free experience when used. Here's the question. If I drywall the new outhouse with greenboard, will I have issues with the drywall breaking down over time, ....considering it's always quite humid up there, and in the Winter, we only heat the outhouse when we're there. I'm not sure how the extended cold periods in the Winter, and the high humidity year round will affect the drywall.
Brake Pad Posted August 25, 2013 #2 Posted August 25, 2013 go with 1/2 Hardie boards, green boards are a thing of the past. will not mold, it's made for wet weather http://www.hardieboard.com I use the product, for under carports, open air patios, and behind shower tiles and Marble they come in 3X5 sheet & 4X8 sheets
utadventure Posted August 25, 2013 #3 Posted August 25, 2013 Any gypsum product (drywall) will eventually absorb enough moisture to cause it to breakdown. Green should help but it's designed mostly to repel surface water not ambient. Use green board, over a vapor barrier, and make sure you seal all joints (especially cuts) and a good paint job. That should outlive you! I have a cabin in Utah and don't heat it at all during the winter if we aren't there and it gets below 0 often. Good Luck! Dave
saddlebum Posted August 26, 2013 #4 Posted August 26, 2013 Any time I have to work in a damp location I use durobond 90 rathe than regular dry wall compound. It handles damp locations much better. However I suggest you apply it in several thin skim coats rather than a few heavy coats. This stuff will make you work when it comes to sanding it. You can use your dry wall knife to level it by pressing it hard and flat while drawing it over the compound when it is about half dry. this will help eliminate much sanding. Believe me you are not going to like sanding it but it is durable.
dacheedah Posted August 26, 2013 #5 Posted August 26, 2013 and prime and seal with a good exterior paint. Well vented is very important, vents high and low for summer, close them in winter.
RedRider Posted August 26, 2013 #6 Posted August 26, 2013 Forget drywall. Just put up melamine. (I think that's what it's called). It's basically sheet plastic. Assuming you aren't looking for a complete perfect finish like an inside room. RR
dacheedah Posted August 26, 2013 #7 Posted August 26, 2013 RFP wall board over cement board will hold up
vzuden Posted August 26, 2013 #8 Posted August 26, 2013 Forget drywall. Just put up melamine. (I think that's what it's called). It's basically sheet plastic. Assuming you aren't looking for a complete perfect finish like an inside room. I think melamine is that fibrous hardboard with a plastic coating, isn't it? If it is what I am thinking of, it will blister and flake when wet repeatedly in wet environments. FRP plastic is the best, in my opinion.
RedRider Posted August 26, 2013 #9 Posted August 26, 2013 Forget drywall. Just put up melamine. (I think that's what it's called). It's basically sheet plastic. Assuming you aren't looking for a complete perfect finish like an inside room. I think melamine is that fibrous hardboard with a plastic coating, isn't it? If it is what I am thinking of, it will blister and flake when wet repeatedly in wet environments. FRP plastic is the best, in my opinion. That's the product I'm thinking of. Basically, plastic sheeting. RR
spear Posted August 26, 2013 #10 Posted August 26, 2013 Forget drywall. Just put up melamine. (I think that's what it's called). It's basically sheet plastic. Assuming you aren't looking for a complete perfect finish like an inside room. I think melamine is that fibrous hardboard with a plastic coating, isn't it? If it is what I am thinking of, it will blister and flake when wet repeatedly in wet environments. FRP plastic is the best, in my opinion. Melamine has an MDF backing. Last thing you need in a moist environment.
jtwilburt Posted August 26, 2013 #11 Posted August 26, 2013 The FRP or fiberglass panels is the best way to go. Durable, waterproof through and through and really doesn't care how cold it gets. Best of luck with the renovation. PS - watch the fan motor or get a sealed motor for the fan, outhouse gases can be pretty corrosive.
uncledj Posted August 27, 2013 Author #12 Posted August 27, 2013 The FRP or fiberglass panels is the best way to go. Durable, waterproof through and through and really doesn't care how cold it gets. Best of luck with the renovation. PS - watch the fan motor or get a sealed motor for the fan, outhouse gases can be pretty corrosive. I was hoping to be able to use greenboard, because it's cheap and I like the finished look, plus I wouldn't have to worry about trimming the seams. As far as the corrosive gases, I use combustion blowers from hvac equipment. They can take the corrosive aspects, but the moisture kills them after about 5 years. Fortunately, I have an endless supply. The cool thing is that they're 230 volt, but when I run them at 120 volt, they run slow and quiet, and draw just enough to remove the "stinky", but not fast enough to be noisy or draw too much cold air into the loo in Wintertime. As a side note....my cabin is on the grounds of an old dynamite factory. The ruins are evident everywhere,...on the flats, and even on the sides of the mountains. The area was chosen because the high humidity lessened the likelyhood of accidents. Looks like there were lots of small structures. The last of the buildings were torn down in '57. That aside, it's a picturesque area. You can drink from the streams worry free. It's near Sinnemahoning, PA, off of Wykoff run rd.
saddlebum Posted August 27, 2013 #13 Posted August 27, 2013 (edited) FRP Stands for fiberglass reinforced plywood. Yes it is tough some transport trailers use it for trailer walls rather than aluminum. but once moisture gets past the fiberglass the ply wood rots like any other wood product. Edited August 28, 2013 by saddlebum
dacheedah Posted August 27, 2013 #14 Posted August 27, 2013 We have a port a pottie rental company that sometimes sells used potties cheap. They will pump them out for a reasonable rate and they are durable. I do know people who have put RV valves on the tanks and run hose to or put them over a pit.
BuddyRich Posted August 27, 2013 #15 Posted August 27, 2013 Use T-111 siding in it. Its designed for outside and is cheaper then Hardie panel.
SpencerPJ Posted August 27, 2013 #16 Posted August 27, 2013 And what's wrong with stud 2x4s to look at while doing your business. But, cement board or backer board, you'll find it wherever the sell ceramic tile. Lowes, Home Depot, Menards. Use the coated screws designed for the product so they don't rust. You can finish out cement board good enough to paint. Oil base paint for that environment would be best.
motormike Posted August 29, 2013 #17 Posted August 29, 2013 FRP is not plywood. FRP stands for Fiberglass Reinforced Panels. You can find the panels at your local HD along with the adhesive and trim strips. Once put up correctly you can hose em down if you need to. These are the same panels you see in restrooms and kitchens in several types of commercial applications. Although initial $ outlay is more you'll save in the long run when you have to redo the project with drywall.
Brake Pad Posted August 29, 2013 #18 Posted August 29, 2013 Hardie board, tape and skim. roll or spray Loxon Primer ( can be tinted )
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now