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Need rear master cylinder

casiper
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dingy

dingy

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Posted
Just broke mind trying to loose the side bolt. If anyone has one for sale or a link to one, I would appreciate it.

 

Thank you guys!

 

Do you need reservoir or the master cylinder?

 

Side bolt comment leads me to think it is reservoir.

 

Gary

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  • 3 weeks later...
jsb777

jsb777

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Posted (edited)

11/16/2013

Update to my message below posted 9/18/2013.

Finally got around to fussin' with the too soft (or NO pedal) rear brake.

 

Son-in-law and I bled them manually (pumping the pedal method), taking about 10 cycles of pump/bleed to keep pressure.

The test drive resulted in pedal pressure/resistance and working rear brake until the next time I rode it.

Result: 1st attempt is always the same...ride, brake, pedal goes to the mat with NO braking taking place whatsoever.

Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build and hold UNTIL the next 1/2 mile or so application, then same thing.

 

Borrowed a Mity-Vac (metal frame/handle etc) from mechanic at work and bled them myself this time.

Again took about a dozen cycles to get air removed and fluid flowing into the canister.

Result: Same as before; test ride is ok; bike sits overnight and 1st application of brake there is NO braking.

Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build...and you know the rest.

 

I have no leaking of fluid along the line to the caliper, no LOSS of fluid in the reservoir, and am at a loss as to where to turn.

My thinking is there is a crack somewhere allowing air into the line and thus no loss of fluid.

Seems to me the opening would have to be ABOVE the fluid level (i.e. the cap/diaphragm???) or there would be a LOSS of fluid.

 

I just don't know how to proceed...

 

Thanks!

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is there a test or process to determine if a master cylinder IS failing (or has already failed)?

 

My 2005 Midnight Venture (32,000 miles, of which I've only put on 600 since purchasing 2 months ago), seemed to have very little rear brake. I thought the rear pedal felt very soft. I checked the rear fluid, and it was clear and at level.

 

Examining pad thickness, I thought I might do the brakes myself, as they seemed to need it. I've never attempted a brake job, and eventually talked myself out of it, opting for the local dealer to do the rear brake. The first 3-4 stops were "ok" but I still didn't feel I was getting enough "brake" for the pressure applied. A week later, the pedal bottoms out very quickly, but occasionally seems to have good pressure.

 

My previous bike was an '05 1100 Silverado, and I felt like the rear brake really had some bite to it. I am aware (and use) the front brake does the bulk of the braking, and am pretty much riding my 800 lb. Venture around using the front brake and gearing down.

 

I've also read about some people having trouble bleeding brakes on these bikes (2nd Gen?) and the service guy let it slip the mechanic spent a couple hours trying to get them to bleed properly. Only the rear were done this service.

 

I just don't know if a) there is still air in the line, b) the master cylinder is bad (failing), or c) is there some other component I should be looking at.

 

Thanks for any insight you can shed on this for me. This fix (going to attempt it myself) would MORE than pay my recent $12 joining fee!!

 

John in Eugene, OR

Edited by jsb777
Update on braking problem
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syscrusher

syscrusher

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Posted

Check the brake fluid level and if it's low check for leaks and top up.

I would get the speed bleeders for it as well as the bag and tube, it's all pricey but makes it all soooooo much easier. My vote would be for bleeding the brakes good yourself or find someone mechanical who can help you. This comes from your statement that the brakes feel good sometimes because that can happen with air in the system. Don't let the master reservoir level fall below the "lower" indication while bleeding and flushing the brakes or you'll pump air into the line.

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Squidley

Squidley

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Posted

John,

 

If your comfortable with bleeding the brakes yourself, I would bleed them. I would also make sure that the pads were installed properly. The pads that were installed may not be up to snuff, organics, for me, just dont have the bite like EBC HH sintered pads.

 

It's hard to say without looking at it, but your bike is only 7 years old. For the most part, if the fluid has been changed regularly, the master cylinder shouldn't be an issue. I wish you were a bit closer as I'm confident a new set of EBC pads and a bleed would fix your issues. The back brakes on the RSV are overkill, I have locked many of them up without even trying.

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jsb777

jsb777

Posted
Posted

Syscrusher & Squidley,

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Our first big storm of the fall is rolling in Friday.

I may take this on this weekend. I know about the speed bleeders, but what is the "bag & tube?" Are they from the same vendor?

 

I'll post a reply when done and let you know how it worked out.

Thanks again for the help!!

 

John

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syscrusher

syscrusher

Posted
Posted

Yes, just look around on the Speedbleeders website. The Bag and tube are $3 each but make bleeding the brakes easy when used with speed bleeders because the tube seals well on the bleeder fitting and with the bag you don't have to worry about knocking over a jar or having your tube come out of the jar, etc.

 

Good luck.

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  • 1 month later...
jsb777

jsb777

Posted
Posted

11/16/2013

Update to my message below posted 9/18/2013.

Finally got around to fussin' with the too soft (or NO pedal) rear brake.

 

Son-in-law and I bled them manually (pumping the pedal method), taking about 10 cycles of pump/bleed to keep pressure.

The test drive resulted in pedal pressure/resistance and working rear brake until the next time I rode it (very next day).

Result: 1st attempt is always the same...ride, brake, pedal goes to the mat with NO braking taking place whatsoever.

Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build and hold UNTIL the next 1/2 mile (or so) application, then same thing.

 

Borrowed a Mity-Vac (metal frame/handle etc) from mechanic at work and bled them myself this time.

Again took about a dozen cycles to get air removed and fluid flowing into the canister.

Result: Same as before; test ride is ok; bike sits overnight and upon 1st application of brake there is NO braking.

Pump, pump, pump and pressure will build...and you know the rest.

 

I have no leaking of fluid along the line to the caliper, no LOSS of fluid in the reservoir, and am at a loss as to where to turn.

My thinking is there is a crack somewhere allowing air into the line and thus no loss of fluid.

Seems to me the opening would have to be ABOVE the fluid level (i.e. the cap/diaphragm???) or there WOULD BE a loss of fluid.

 

I just don't know how to proceed...

I don't want to just start replacing parts (the whole rear brake line and master cylinder??) without actually diagnosing/knowing what the problem is.

 

Thanks!

John

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