Carb slider springs

[mralex714]

I ordered some NOS carb springs for my 86. The ones I ordered were actually for an 83 part number 41R-14933-00, not thinking there would be a difference between the 1200 and 1300 carbs. The springs are 1/2 - 3/4 shorter. Question is can I use them in my 1300 and if I can are there any issues I should expect?

[dingy]

My guess is it will affect idle and fuel mileage negativily. The shorter springs will allow the sliders to open sooner than desired.

 

Gary (from WNY Rally !!!)

[mralex714]

My guess is it will affect idle and fuel mileage negativily. The shorter springs will allow the sliders to open sooner than desired.

 

Gary (from WNY Rally !!!)

 

That's the last thing I need is worse gas mileage 30-33.

[Venturous Randy]

They may also be smaller in diameter.

You should be able to get 42 to 46 on gas mileage on your bike unless you are routinely running down the interstate at 80 mph+.

RandyA

[Patch]

My experience would say no.

why do you need to change them?

have you done a compression test?

S/G

[mralex714]

My experience would say no.

why do you need to change them?

have you done a compression test?

S/G

 

Compression test and carbs were done in January. The sliders seem to be moving slowly that and my poor gas mileage.

[Flyinfool]

Sliders moving slowly is more likely dirt making them sticky in the bore.

Pull the slides out and give them and the bores a thorough cleaning before you start replacing stuff.

[Patch]

God that there movement is controlled, or you might need more then springs. Springs are a tuning nightmare if you needed to then if it were me I would make sure they are exactly the right part #.

Like Flyinfool said clean inspect them and roll the needles on a clean flat surface, again I use wd for that and a lint free rag.

S/G

[mralex714]

Sliders moving slowly is more likely dirt making them sticky in the bore.

Pull the slides out and give them and the bores a thorough cleaning before you start replacing stuff.

 

Did that last month when I changed the diaphragms.

[Patch]

Hi Mralex, the thing is you have good diaphragms if you were to stiffen the springs you would only slow the opening of the slide as for the closing of them that would be mute. The springs are simply a balance between low pressure and high pressure.

You didn't mention your compression results and the reason I asked is as you know the other side of that is expected vacuum, for example are the valve seating are the rings sharp enough to vacuum enough so that the CV carb's can work within there limits.

Now heres one for you, my son and I just did a small road trip and before leaving, he road the Kat 1100 which we have played the carbs many times with different configurations, he was saying that the rpms weren't behaving well and that the milage seemed some what off, but that the power band was strong all the way through! So pull the air box ran the carbs through there paces, heres what I found the number one slide had the lower washer/bushing that the spring seats to incorrectly placed and acted as a shim, like lowering the needle clip or seating the needle high. So what I expected when I saw the gas jetting through at under 3000 was a worn needle or seat that would be what you are refering to with your thought of stiffening the spring seating the needle with more pressure. If you don't see gas jetting out or a "wet ring around the jet at low rpm's then there is no problem there, if you do than check needle for ware or out of round jet!

Tracking down poor milage isn't easy but the compression results are a good place to start, next is valve lash, when that meets the bench mark then you tune the carbs accordingly.

Hope this helps you figure out what is a miss with the bike.

S/G