My Gen 1.2 seal driver cost $7

[syscrusher]

Got some of my ideas from Snaggletooths version but mine is special. I'm not sure if the fork boots are stock issue because I'm pretty new to these machines, does anyone know?

 

If you make one like this I would suggest the part that is just 1 1/2" PVC pipe should be 4" or so instead of the 3" that I used. This is because 4" would easily go all of the way under all of the boot when it is squished and may help avoid damage to the top most ring where you put your tiewrap after the job is done. I cut my boot at the very top and rolled it down so that the PVC pipe could jam against the lower triple tree, which is what you want. With a longer pipe the rolling down is unnecessary. I then used a piece of wood and a one handed sledge on the bottom of the fork outer to drive the seal home, which I could do since the seal was fully in contact.

 

So, the parts are 2 hose clamps about 2", 4" piece of 1 1/2" PVC, a 1 1/2" PVC coupler, and a 1 1/4" PVC coupler. Using PVC glue, glue the 4" of pipe inside the 1 1/2" coupler then split it with a saw or 4 1/2" grinder with cutoff wheel, etc. Split the 1 1/4" coupler similarly. The 1 1/4" coupler fits the seal rim perfectly but normally would not fit inside the 1 1/2" coupler except that we split all of the pieces. Clean up and slightly round off all of the cuts. The 1 1/4" coupler has a butt rim inside that needs to be trimmed away with a Dremmel, half-round bastard file, or a grinding point, etc. does not need to be smooth. Wash off all of the powdered PVC though so it doesn't end up inside your new fork seal.

 

I started my seals by hand, pushing them as far as I could into the lowers using just my fingers. I had been using a 3/4 piece of the old seal to drive the new ones but I would tap it on one side and the other side would rise up. This seal driver is used by assembling the split haves of the upper driver part first over the seal on the fork tube and holding them together with the first hose clamp placed around the center of the 1 1/2" coupler part a little bit loose. Push this upward to make room for the split parts of the 1 1/4" coupler and assemble those pieces using the washer over the top of the seal itself to align the bottom of the pieces perfectly flat. Clamp these a little loosely about 1/2" from the bottom and then slide the lower upward to force the 1 1/4" coupler underneath of the 1 1/2" coupler. When this is accomplished tighten both hose clamps fully and commence-a-whacking. My seals went in kinda difficult but this really did the job for me.

 

Edited March 27, 2016 by syscrusher
Re-add photos

[Evan]

Pretty sure my 88 VR does not have fork boots so I am also interested in whether this is an option.

[bongobobny]

No, the boots were not stock...

[syscrusher]

No, the boots were not stock...

 

The seal install would have been a lot easier without the boots. The boots on it have 1/8" holes on the lower section just above the seals. Seems really dumb since those holes allow dirt in but at least there is something there. I'd like to buy something that velcros on instead.

[syscrusher]

Just reviewing this due to re-adding the photos.

Found out that the boots were on 1990 and later VRs and the dust cover seal was dropped.

I am planning to retrofit a dust cover seal onto my 1993 any day now but still unverified whether this is possible.

Now - Verified and working very well.

Edited March 27, 2016 by syscrusher
update

[syscrusher]

I plan to add some photos soon of my large fork brace and the way that I am still using the fork boots along with the brace.

[Karaboo]

Yeah, my 1990 did not have the dust covers and my boots were gone when I bought it, so I made some guards on a 3D printer. They look goofy, but they should keep stone chips and bugs off of the lower part of the upper tubes.

 

 

i don't think I will be able to use a bigger fork brace with these. I am looking forward to seeing what you did to make yours work with the boots.